K1 Max Vented Riser (with closable vents and Hygrometer option)

Please consider leaving a like. or just take it and slink quietly out the side door.

I recently started printing ASA and my own riser needed a complete redesign to seal the top for printing at higher temperatures so I went looking for alternatives and fell on one that I liked the look of.  I wasn't too keen on how they had addressed the change over from open venting to blocked vents (They were using a separate piece that was dropped over the sidde pieces to cover the openings when needed.). So I  set about doing a remix where the blocking piece is an integral part and can be easily opened and closed as required.

I added the option to fit a Hygrometer/Temperature meter in the front panel (47/28mm-50x30mm type). If you don't intend fitting a hygrometer and all you want is the vents all around? Then just print a vent panel section instead of the Hygrometer front panel as all the four panels are the same length. 

I added a vent system that allows for opening and closing with simple slide switches. The piece inside the frame that blocks the vent holes has a simple recess pattern on one side (saves a bit of filament) and is blank on the other so you can choose which you prefer on the outer surface by simply flipping the slider before fitting.

The side panels are marked as left and right allowing you to have the switch at the front or rear on both sides (similarly using either a left or right in another position allows you to choose for yourself which side you want the switches.  I personally prefer my switches to be nearest the glass door, and for the rear, on the right side of the printer.  Parts are marked for that setup. Print the appropriate panel for your preferred switch location.

The left and right panel option was created primarily because of the way I cut the channel for the inner slider. To avoid needing support for the top of the sliders slot inside the panel, I didn't cut a rectangular hole, opting instead for a near triangular cut at the top so that when printing there would be no need for support ‘inside’ the frame. It may work fine upside down but I wasn't risking it and didn't design the slider for it to be used that way. If you want the side switches at the back of the printer instead of the front? Fit the left side to the right and the right side to the left.

I added a set of 3mm holes in the back of the side panels. These holes are for inserting a short 3mm Allen screw when needed. If you don't remove the strip of foam that the glass originally used to sit on, it makes the panels try to sit proud of the corner pieces which is not ideal.  I added the holes so you can force them into place and use the screws to lock the panel into the corner pieces more firmly. There was also a slight mod done to the corner pieces to accommodate that screw option. Removing the foam before fitting would be far easier (I Did not remove it myself).

Another side effect of the keeping the OE foam is how much effort is needed to push the corner pieces into place to allow clearance to fit the side/front/rear panels. The corners clip under the frame and when the side pieces are fitted the frame is effectively locked into place. I managed to break the clip portion off one of my corners while manhandling it into place. Rather than reprint the whole corner, I instead created a ‘repair piece’ which I have included in the file set just in case anyone else does similar. The failure of the corner wasn't necessarily just my use of excessive force, it was more likely because I didn't initially print that part strong enough to take the heavy handed abuse used trying to force it to overcome the foam. 

I have some thin foam somewhere that I intend fitting to the surface of the riser when I find it to have the glass rest on that rather than the print, but that it is likely overkill on my part. If your prints don't warp (one of mine did and I had to redo it) and you fit it correctly, the glass sits flat on the print without introducing any unwanted gaps.

When it comes to printing, I'd say a minimum 3 or 4 layers and 40 to 50 percent infill for the corners and perhaps consider 40+ for the Slider frame pieces as they are quite thin, but apart from the switch area they don't really need much strength.  The Slider Frame pieces have areas where the thickness is down around 1.5mm. More than strong enough (especially in ASA). As it is a semi permanent fitting (in that you should never have to remove it, though you can easily do so if required) it isn't worth risking a low quality minimal infill print. I use Orca slicer and although for the most part I use Gyroid infill for my prints, for stronger parts I often jump back to a simple grid. Everybody has their own ideas on what's best though so do what makes you feel happy. 

Print info:-

Print the vented frame panels in the orientation they will be used.  I used paint on supports to support all the vent openings in the sides along with the extreme edge of the central opening at each end (it makes the printers life easier when it gets to printing the top surface). Do NOT add support inside the frames where it will be hard to get to after printing. I added a wedge shape to the roof of the slots for the full length of the prints to save using internal supports. Supports would be near impossible to get out of there without damage. 

Switch components are already in the orientation for printing.  I used automatic tree supports as the holes of the switch caps are sized specifically for a snug fit to the pins. Any droopy filament would mean having to sand the pins for the correct fit. They will not need glue and are tight when fitted.  I used an 8mm (or 8.5) to cut a tiny chamfer in the holes of the outer switch parts to allow the pins easier hole entry. Alternatively sand the tips a little if needed. Two of the three panels of my own final print went together without needing either of the tweaks mentioned there. 

I added one stl with all three switch components, and another with only two sets. Those using the hygrometer/temperature option can print the set of three in one go. If you are doing vents on all 4 sides then print the set of two twice.

Last note:- 

This was my first large print in ASA and I had a few initial issues with warping and first layers. As a stopgap I added some extra mouse ears and the like to my final print files before finally sorting the actual problem I was having with initial layer adhesion on my printer. One of those semi modded parts slipped through the net and is the front panel of this set. There is a .4 filler added at the bottom of the channel where it meets the bed (this helped my K1 Max better print the bottom first layer). After printing, snap that bit out so the channel is clear from top to bottom. I used needle nose pliers for that on my prints. 

Added vent options. Added Hygrometer option. Added holes in the corner pieces to allow for clamping the panels down if the foam is left on the printer frame.