{"data":{"model":{"id":"994631","slug":"nutdriver-organizer","name":"Nutdriver organizer","authorship":"author","club":false,"excludeCommercialUsage":false,"price":null,"eduProject":null,"ratingAvg":"5.0000000000","myRating":null,"ratingCount":1,"description":"

I have two sets of nut drivers, metric and imperial, 9 pieces each. I wanted a holder that would keep them organized, and allow me to get the size I wanted quickly! I designed this holder to do that.

I printed this using two colors of PLA on a Bambu Labs X1C. But I only wanted the text to be a couple layers thick, so that it didn't spend all day changing colors and wasting filaments. I also didn't want to \u2018paint\u2019 the text in bambu studio\u2026I wanted it as part of the model! To do this, if you've not done it before, I'll explain as best I can. Like I said, I decided I wanted the text to be approximately three layers deep\u2026which at a .2mm layer height is .6mm, or about .024\". So once I created the base, including the holes with their chamfers, I laid out the text. I made an extrusion of all the text that was .024\" thick. Then, still in solidworks, I combined/cut that text from the base (keeping the original text extrusion). At this point, I had a base with the text carved out to a depth of 3 layers. AND, I had another solid extrusion of the text that was, you guessed it, 3 layers thick. Since the text extrusion was used to create the removed part of the base, they match exactly, so closely in fact that it's tough to tell they're separate objects. Indeed, in the 3D viewer here on Printables, you can't tell that the print is even there\u2026but it is. At that point, I saved and exported it as an STL.

Here's where the colored printing part starts. Once the STL is imported, orient it so that the printed side is lying on the print bed. Next, change the color of the thing to the color you want to use for the text! Then, right click the object, and split it into separate objects.

So at this point, you've imported the STL, laid it face down, changed its color to the text color, and finally, split it into separate objects. There will be an object for the base, and then another object for EACH text character\u202668 of them. So, 69 objects\u2026but only ONE, the base, is the wrong color! That's why I said change the color to the text color BEFORE splitting it! Since you changed them all to the text color by doing it before the split, all those text objects are the right color already, and only one, the base, has to be changed back to the color/filament that you want for the base!

From here, all that's left is to print it. It'll change filament 5 times while it completes the first three layers\u2026then it all the base color after that!

I used a BL X1C. This model is 9.5\" x 3.6\" x 1\", so it's about as big as you can get on a BL printer! Since it's printing upside down (face down), the bottom of the holes is unsupported, so I printed it using tree supports. But I don't think that was really necessary.

Now, you COULD print it right-side-up, so the text printed last. But it won't look as good as if you print it text-side-down.

The nut drivers shown in the pictures are Hercules (from Harbor Freight), and the shafts are just regular hex drive shafts. There are two sets, imperial and metric, and each set has 9 bits. But without my reading glasses (I'm getting old\u2026you will too) I can't read the size imprinted on each bit. That's why I incorporated the sizing into the model! The chamfer at the top of each hole makes it quick and easy to return the bit to its proper spot, and the holes are oversized such that the bits just drop in. That's something to be aware of\u2026the bits are held in the holes only by gravity. If you turn it over, they'll all fall out. This was intended to sit in my toolbox drawer, where it would not ever be accidentally overturned!

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