BEHOLD! THE INCREDIBLY not-so-large TOME FOR PLAYING DUNGEONS AND DRAGONS!
Now, before you get all excited, I highly recommend you read the ENTIRE description (with some exceptions) before starting your prints, just to be sure you don't have any regrets. (Who knew you'd be reading a tome in order to print a tome?)
Various inserts for the tome are available here.
Disclaimer: The design was inspired by a friend who asked if I could make a D&D book for her to gift to someone. She knew nothing about D&D and neither did I. So I did some research and spoke with individuals who have played the game to get some ideas of what one might like in a tome like this one. So, if you have any feedback at all or any ideas on how the design can be improved or any additions that I could add to the book, please share! There will be a good chance you'll see some welcome changes if you do.
When specifying dimensions, they will be stated in terms of width x height x depth
Features:
About the Hinge Links:
Printing Instructions:
Required Hardware: 24 - 6x3mm magnets (Yes, you'll need 24 of them... lots of magnets. Fortunately, you can usually buy a pack of 50 or 100 for $5-$10)
Supports? NEVER! GO TO HELL! Brim: Recommended for all parts to avoid warping.
All models should be oriented in the way they were intended to be printed.
What to print:
Optional dice tower:
The 3mf file provided was sliced in OrcaSlicer and has recommended configurations for printing each piece of the main tome.
The dice tower included in this model is slightly different from the one included in the master tome. The one included with this model doesn't have a door as it doesn't need one to guide dice into the main part of the book.
Assembly:
All magnets should have a press fit tolerance. However, because of the different variations of printers out there, you may find you need to glue yours in or you may have to use brute force. Note: When installing magnets, be extra sure you're installing them in the proper orientation so they attract each other. I've made mistakes and don't want you to repeat them.
The Book Front Hinge Interface is meant to be glued into where the book binding would be on the front cover. It's designed so, if you try to place it incorrectly, it won't fit right. (I'm considered implementing some sort of fastening implementation to attach the hinge interface to the front cover. So if that's one of your gripes, stay tuned).
Glue the pages onto the book back.
When snapping in the hinge links, it is recommended that you snap the hinge links into the Book Back portion of the book, first, before snapping them into the Book Front Hinge Interface. I've just found it easier to do it in this sequence.
If you feel like the hinge links are WAY to thick to ever have a dream of fitting in there, you're not alone. I rely on plastic deformation to occur when snapping them into place. Because the infill is still somewhat hollow, there is slight movement in the plastic as you press the links into their designated locations. I've found myself man-handling the things before and it can be frustrating if you just can't get them in. If you can't seem to get them to snap in, You can print some hinge links with the Z scale adjusted so they're a bit thinner.
Once all hinge links have snapped in, the assembly of your Dungeon Master Tome is complete! Now all you need to do is choose from the available inserts and customize your storage!
Scaling (if you dare) don't read this if you don't plan on scaling Disclaimer:
If this starts to seem a little too complicated for you, rest assured I will be coming out with a smaller tome for lighter D&D users, so you can just wait for that if you'd like. It will fit smaller print beds.
Now, because of the magnet holes, any scaling will also scale those holes. So you'd have to scale it in a way to where you can use 2x4mm magnets or maybe 3x1mm magnets. It doesn't have to be those sizes specifically, but just consider the size of magnets you might be able to use, and scale the model accordingly. Yes, this means you'll have to do some math to know what percentage to scale it. You'll most likely have to uncheck "Uniform scale" (or similar setting) because there's a good chance your x, y, and z scale percentages will be different to get your desired results.
IMPORTANT: Once you determine your scale percentages, you'll want to use the same scale numbers for every part you print. BUT BE CAREFUL! The orientation in which everything prints is not the orientation it will be in when the model is assembled. For example: The Book Front Hinge Interface.stl file is meant to be printed on its side. So, given the shorter axis is in the Y direction, if you scale the Z axis of the book to 50%, then you'd scale the hinge interface's Y axis to 50% instead of its Z axis.
For those who have joined my club at the “Obsessor” tier, prints of this model can be used for commercial purposes.
Feel free to join my discord for additional support, questions, or suggestions!
The author marked this model as their own original creation.