Ender-3 V3 Plus Collection

Note: This only fits the E3V3 Plus printer. For the smaller E3V3 printer see my collection here.

Update: I have a new Top Mounted Filament Sensor Bracket here which can also be used with side and desk mounted spool holders and dryers/dry boxes.

A collection of upgrades and add-ons which are, to me, pretty essential. Included are:

• Top Mounted Spool Holder
• Top Mounted Filament Sensor Bracket
• Frame Mounted Light Bar Brackets for the excellent £7 IKEA Rolfstorp
• Z-Axis Mount for the Creality Nebula Camera

All bar the Camera mount snap snugly on to the frame, and only two sets of additional items are required.

Additional Items

• For the Sensor Bracket you'll need an extension to its wiring cable. One example I found is called “XH 2S LiPo battery balance extension lead” and you'll need a 200mm / 20cm length.
• For the Camera Mount you'll need two additional M3x10mm bolts.

The top mount uses items from other models, I've included the STL files for convenience:

The Roller mechanism and upper frame dimensions are derived from this model: 

K1/K1 Max Table Top Spool Holder

The Roller bearings are from this excellent collection:

Print in place bearings

I've included their Default and Loose versions of the M608 bearing here. Some working of them to smooth the insides plus some dry PTFE spray does wonders.

Printing

Print the main elements in PLA+ (or PETG) using 4/4/4 walls/top/bottom and 15% 3D Honeycome infill (or Gyroid) for strength. Supports are necessary for some of the models, and their orientation is as-is in the STL files. I used the following Orca Slicer settings, similar should be found in Prusa, Bambu and Creality. 

• Normal (manual)
• Snug
• Top Interface Spacing - 0.2mm
• Normal Support Expansion - 2mm

Top Spool Holder

This needs to be oriented at near 45° (43.76° according to Orca Slicer) - basically so that the frame clip is flat on the bed (use Lay On Face if you have it):

Apply Support Paint as follows - as well as supporting overhangs this also keeps the model in place as it is built up:

Light Brackets

These I print at 45° with the following Support Paint:

Camera Bracket

I only add a touch here to help neaten up the lower curve. Also use a brim to help keep the rear part in place, perhaps with some bed adhesive:

Sensor Bracket

This doesn't need support, just print on its side.

Spool Holder Roller

Print this vertically with some support at the base:

608 Bearings

These don't need support, nor strength. I used Silver Silk PLA, so use whatever you'd prefer.

Logos

If you want the Logos as well, print these in your choice of colour (I like Silk) but for best results use a non-textured build plate. As they are so small, I printed them very slowly, no more than 40mm/s, and for the teensy weensy ‘plus’ I used bed adhesive and printed at 20mm/s. Don't use a brim. No, really, don't.

Assembly

After you've worked and lubricated the Bearings add them to the ends of the Roller. Then clip this in place on the Spool Holder.

Unplug the cable from the Sensor and unscrew it from the Z-Axis, keeping the bolts handy. Removing the PTFE tube at this point is optional but may make things easier - I find the little clip that holds it in a pain (I've lost one before). Screw the Sensor onto the new bracket with the PTFE tube facing downwards. 

Unclip all the PTFE clips from the main wiring but leave them on the tube.

Pull the Sensor's cable out of the sleeve that holds the main wiring - it should come free down to the support brace clip without removing the sleeve itself. Plug in the extension cable, snap the Bracket on top (see next) and feed the extension cable through the guide and into the Sensor (see images).

If the main wiring has become unclipped put it back where it was previously. Then clip the PTFE clips on, one just behind the Print Head and the others along the way (see images).

To attach the Spool Holder and Sensor Bracket, hook the rear in just under the back of the upper frame and rotate forward - the Spool holder will take some force, but should snap in place hard. This is another reason to use PLA+ or PETG - regular or silk PLAs will just snap (this I know).

The Light Brackets snap on by placing them on top of the corners with the arm splayed outwards a little - rotate inwards and down and they will snap in place.

FInally screw the Camera Bracket into where the Sensor was with the two new M3 bolts.

And we're done! I recommend putting a spool in place and re-running Input Shaping.

Post your make here, and if you like this model please consider:

EdinBearDragon

Thanks: My grateful thanks go to Jeff Johnson and Gary White who were kind (and brave!) enough to help measure things and test out initial designs. You're the best!