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Please take a look at the newest version of this cutter
This is an evolution of my Dragonburner-filamentcutter.
This Model is not fully tested. i can successfully cut my filament without problem but i have no idea how this straigns the steppers or any other part.
This Model is made for a V2.4 with Rapidburner, Phaetus Rapido UHF, Sherpa crew mini. But will probably work with any DB/RB toolhead + sherpa mini.
I dont take any responsibility for injury, you work with sharp objects, please be carefull!
the cutter needs ways more force to cut through PLA than ABS from some testing. Keep in mind, that this is designed for changing between ABS filaments.
BOM:
- 2* M3x50 (full thread or partial)
- 2* M3 Nut
- 2* d6x3mm magnet
- 1 segment of a 9mm utility blade
- superglue
Recommended Tools
- 2 & 3 mm drillbit
- Superglue
- 2 & 2.5 mm Allen Key
- highly recommended M3 tap
Assembly:
- print all parts in the provided orientation with the regular Voron PIF profile
- insert a magnet in Base Bottom magnet hole
- glue in another magnet into the slider so the magnets OPPOSE each other (S to S or N to N)
- Insert M3 Nuts in the Base Top and Bottom
- tap the magnet side of the Slider with the M3 tap (if not the slider may crack when installing the screws) (optionally print the slider upright)
- glue in the blade into the slider (push it gently in its cavity with something plasic)
- Screw the M3x50 in the Slider from the blade side that about 8.5mm of threads stick out the Magnet side
- encase the M3 Screw heads with the lever top and bottom and secure with M3 FHCS
- now place Base Bottom, Slider assembly and Base Top between your Printhead and extruder and secure with 8mm longer screws than original if you add this on its own
Optional:
- Print the Filament Cutter Arm in the Provided Orientation (if you have Extrusion Backers use that)
- Screw that on the left side Extrusion with M3x20 and TNuts
- Use a M5x40 (or 45) Screw to have a point where the cutter can ram against