I suggest that it be printed in ABS as I do the rest of the frame - as Warpster suggests.
I printed the frame originally in PETG and it was fine printing PLA, but once I started printing ABS, the PETG sagged - so save yourself some time and go with ABS from the outset.
I glued the glare protector in place with a bit of contact cement, but any glue you would normally use on ABS will do just fine as this is a no-load component. The nice thing about contact cement is that you can reheat it a bit with a hot-air gun (not too much!) and it softens enough to pull apart again.
The author remixed this model.
This is a very simple addition to Warpster's excellent light frame (the best Bambu X1 Carbon lighting solution I found).
The top of my printer sits at the same level as my desk and the gap between the front of the frame and the bottom of the AMS (about 1 cm) reflects the LEDs at my eye level. This is likely an unusual situation, but just in case somebody else has the same issue I thought I would save them a few minutes with this simple add-on solution.