Small Snap-Lid Box

If you print the version using magnets, you get a satisfying snap sound when squeezing it closed.

Info

This is an updated version of an old upload of mine to Thingiverse back in 2017 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2501107).

Then it was printed with the MMU1 on the MK2, but now I printed it on the MK4 MMU3 and on the Prusa Mini to showcase that it still is a great printer.
 

How to Print a box

There are only two parts you need, a boxBase and a boxLid. Just make sure to get the same version of each, regarding both screw type and with or without magnets.

The only strong suggestions I have is that you use 3 perimeters, 0.2mm layer height and a 0.4mm nozzle. You are of course the president of your own printer, but it is designed for this.
 

Two versions, M3 and 2.5mm flathead screw

The m3 version is intended for the m3 bolt to screw into and just stick out a little bit for esthetic reasons, whereas the smaller flathead screw version looks kind of the same, but the screwhead does not go into the slot.

Personally, I like the smaller flatscrew version since it doesn't produce such a big hinge as can be seen in the comparison here.

SnapLid Box with magnets

To get that magnetic squeeze close, you have to have some (4 per box) 5x1.7mm round neodymium magnets. They will also help to hold down the corners if you happen to have some warping from your printer.

It isn't particularly difficult to print with inserted magnets. The only thing you need to do is to use the correct model (the ones ending in “…withMagnets”), and also remember to put in a pause in the slicer at the correct layer height. (right click on the + symbol in the layer slider to insert a pause)

Since the pause happens at the start of a layer, we insert it at the first layer that prints over the hollowed out area for the magnet. Below is an example for the m3 boxBase model.

When we insert the magnets midprint, the first 2 aren't important in which polarization we put them in. The next two however, are very important to get right or they will repel instead of attract 🫣.

I found the easiest method being just sticking two magnets on the already printed part so that they will show how they want to reside. Then you match the orientation of that piece to the one being printed and just slide off the magnets one by one, making sure not to change their orientation.
Once their in, just hit resume on the printer and be sure to grab any hanging filament ooze so it wont get stuck in your print. Here it is important to watch and make sure the magnets doesn't stick to the nozzle if you have one made out of a ferromagnetic material such as the obxidian nozzle is. If it does stick and pops out of the socket, immediately pause the print and put the magnet back in but you can use a small drop of superglue if you think it's going to happen again.

I had it happen one time, and I've since then made the tolerance a bit tighter making sure it shouldn't happen easily. But we all have different printers and calibrations, so just be on your watch and it should be fine.
 

MultiMaterial Lids

If you have a printer that can print many materials in the same go, you can go ahead and use one of the three “lidArts” if you want. In PrusaSlicer, you can just right click the lid and choose “add Part” and “Load…” to add each file from the selected arts folder.

I noticed that printing them in a random (wrong) order makes for a not as great looking print in the small details (the Prusa Research logo and the finer bolt outlines). So my tip is to set everything up so that outlines and small things print first. PrusaSlicer goes by extruder number, lowest goes first and so on (for the first layer at least).
 

Final Words

If you have any questions or suggestions just leave a comment and I'll try to answer it. Happy printing !