Backpack-friendly ITX gaming PC case (incl. 180mm printbed version)

Check out the full build video on YouTube!

IMPORTANT NOTE: Please read the full description/instruction BEFORE attempting this build.

Keep in mind that there are STLs posted for two versions of this case, one for a 180x180mm printbed, and one version for a 300x300mm or bigger printbed. Their filenames will specify which STL is for which printbed size version.

This case can hold the following components:

• Mini ITX motherboard
• CPU Cooler up to 40mm (Noctua L9i (Intel) or Noctua L9a (AMD) or the budget friendly Thermalright AXP90-36)
• Flex ATX PSU up to 165mm long (others also work but be aware of the size!)
• 2-slot/41mm graphics card up to 270mm length (Be aware of the max length and the 2-slot thickness!)
• 300mm PCIe riser cable with a 90 degree female connector.

This case is designed to be portable and simple and does not have room for 2.5" SSD's or hard drives so your build will rely on using M.2 drives attached directly to your ITX motherboard.

Parts required to build this case:

• 3D Printer filament (see other recommended types further down)
• M3 threaded inserts (4.6mm OD, 5 or 6mm long, about 25 needed)
• An angled C13 power cable (Length, depends on your own requirements and angle depends on the socket of the PSU you get)
• A 12mm power button
• 8x3mm Neodymium magnets (16 pcs. needed)
• M3x10mm screws (About 25 needed, make sure head is not too big)
  
  (All orange links above are “affiliate links”, meaning I may earn a small commision on each qualified sale at no extra cost to you)
   

Two versions available:

• Please read the file name on each STL to know which one is for which case version. Keep also in mind that some models have “(mesh)” in their filename, this means that the STL should be printed with no bottom or top layers so air can pass through. If possible, for strong parts, use the infill type «Honeycomb» at 20-30% infill density for the «(mesh)» panels. 
   

Printing instructions:

Recommended materials: PETG, PETG-CF, ABS, ASA. 

Recommended settings for “Normal settings”: (See table below)

• Top and bottom layers: 3 - 5
• Infill type: Doesn't matter.
• Infill density: 15 - 20%
• Walls/Perimeters: 3 - 5
• Layer height: 0.2 or 0.3mm

Recommended settings for “Infill mesh”: (See table below)

• Top and bottom layers: ZERO
• Infill type: Honeycomb
• Infill density: 20% for 0.4 nozzle or 30% for 0.6 nozzle.
• Walls/Perimeters: 4-5
• Layer height: 0.2 or 0.3mm

The table below shows what parts should be printed with what settings.

Below are building instructions for both case versions, select the GREEN guide for the 180x180mm build plate version, and scroll further down to the YELLOW building guide for the 300x300mm build plate version.

 

READ BEFORE BUILD: All threaded inserts used in this build are M3 with an outer diameter of 4.6mm. The insert length can be 5 or 6mm. All screws used in this build are M3x10mm screws if nothing else is specified. This written guide provides a step-by-step description on how to assemble the 180x180mm printbed version of the case. The order of each step in this guide may deviate slightly from the order things are assembled in the build video associated with this case.

This instruction is currently missing a few photos but these will be added shortly.

1. Start by adding threaded inserts to panel 5 and 6. Use the picture below as reference as to where to add the threaded inserts. (See picture in step 2)
    
2. Hold panel 5 and 6 with the numbers facing towards you. Slide panel 5 into the slot in panel 6. Secure the two panels together using M3 screws in the two 45-degree holes, one on each side.
   
   
    
3. Grab panel 1, 2, 3 and 4. Remove the custom support material on part number 2 and 4. The custom supports to remove are marked with red circles in the picture below. These are designed to snap off easily for a clean end result. (See picture below, and picture in step 4)
   
   
    
4. Add two threaded inserts into part number 2, as well as one threaded insert into part number 4. (See pictures above and below)
   
   
    
5. Place panel 1, 2, 3 and 4 around panel 5 and 6 in the order shown below. Each part attaches to part 5 and 6 by using two M3 screws per part.
   
   
    
6. Add one more M3 screw to the hole attaching panel 4 and 2.
   
   
    
7. Carefully push/tap into place the bottom joint. In the STL you will find 3 versions of this joint, with a 0.1, 0.2 and 0.3mm tolerance, use the tightest one you can push into place using just your hand, then gently tap it into place using something light until it's flush with the main chassis.
   
   
    
8. Grab these two parts shown in the picture below and find your FLEX PSU (max PSU length 165mm, max thickness 41mm). Add threaded inserts to the three holes pointed out in the picture below.
   
   
    
9. Secure the FLEX PSU to the mounting bracket using three #6-32 screws.
   
   
    
10. Place the assembled main chassis on its side with the number 5 and 6 facing up. Place the FLEX PSU on top of panel 5 and align the threaded insert on the mounting bracket with the hole in part number 3 and secure it in place with a M3 screw from the outside of the chassis. (See picture in step 12)
     
11. Add two more M3 screws into the two holes in the side of panel 5 to secure the PSU bracket. Use the hole in the bottom of the chassis to feed your screwdriver through for easy access. (See picture in step 12)
     
12. Grab the L-shaped bracket and secure it around the FLEX PSU with one M3 screw from the front of the case, and one from the backside of the inner panel.
    
    
     
    
     
13. Take your 300mm PCIe riser cable and carefully pre-bend it into approximately this shape seen below. (It's important that you get a PCIe riser cable that has a 90 degree connector on the GPU side.)
    
    
     
    
     
14. Place your Mini ITX motherboard onto the four standoffs while making sure not to damage the PCIe riser cable and secure it in place using four M3 screws.
     
    
     
15. Add the 12mm power button to the hole in the upper rear corner and secure it in place using the included nut.
     
    
    
    
     
16. Pull the PCIe riser cable slightly out of the chassis at an angle and attach it to your GPU first before carefully bending it back while moving your GPU into position. (This step is easiest to see in the video guide as it's difficult to explain with a picture.)
     
    
     
17. Secure your GPU into place with one screw into the underside of part 4, as well as one screw from the inside of the case on the bottom of the GPU bracket. (See picture above)
     
18. Grab two slim 92x15mm fans and secure them into place in the top of the case using four regular fan screws on each fan.
    
    
     
19. Make sure your two parts of the top panel are printed without top an bottom layers to ensure that the air from the fans can pass through. Then start by grabbing the top panel with the joint and slide that into the track in the front part of the top of the case, followed by the second half of the panel afterwards. The top panels have a latching bump on one side that must align on the same side as the negative bump in the main chassis.
    
    
    (OPTIONAL: If you have a built plate bigger than 250x250mm you can print the top panel as one single piece by priniting the STL with the file name starting with “250x250mm”)
     
20. Slide your external front panels into place at the front of the case starting with the logo panel with the built in joint, followed by the other half above it. The front panels have a latching bump in the middle that will latch into place in the center of the main body.
    
    
    (OPTIONAL: If you have a build plate bigger than 200x200mm you can print the front logo panel by choosing the STL with the file name starting with “200x200mm”)
     
21. Now add all necessary cables like CPU power, GPU power and 24-pin motherboard power. Also make sure to connect the power button to the motherboard. The system should now technically work so feel free to test it out at this point to ensure nothing is missing. 
    
    
    (Don't forget to add some zip-ties to keep your cables nice and tidy and to ensure that no cables are outside the case so it can potentially push against the side panel)
     
22. At the top of the main chassis there are four holes on each side. Add 8x3mm neodymium magnets into all these holes.
    
    
     
23. The split version of the side panel comes in four parts on each side, labelled L1, L2, L3 and L4 on the left side, and R1, R2, R3 and R4 on the right side. Make sure all the side panels are printed without top or bottom layers to ensure the airflow can pass through to the PC components. Grab either the right or left four panels and align them in a rectangle with the X joint in the middle of the four: (See example below)
    
    
     
24. Slide the four panels onto the X joint, push all four sides almost all the way in before carefully wiggling them into place making sure the tracks between the panels also align correctly and they're flush. (See video for explaination)
     
    
     
25. Now install the four 45-degree butterfly joints. The STL for the “side panel joint kit” includes one X-joint as well as a total of eight butterfly joints. Four of these have a tolerance of 0.1mm, and four of them have a tolerance of 0.2mm. Use the tightest one you are able to push partially in with just your fingers, then gently tap it into place with something light the rest of the way until it's flush with the panel, repeat for all four joints. (Print one “joint kit” per side panel)
    
    
     
26. Repeat the previous three steps for the opposite side panel.
     
27. Place the main chassis on it's side with the magnets facing up and align the assembled side panels one at a time with the correct side of the case. so the magnet holes on the side panel is also facing up. Place the magnets one at a time into the holes on the side panel making sure each magnet gets the correct polarity. 
    
    
    (See the video for better explaination around correct magnet polarity. If you end up messing up one of the magnets polarity don't worry. You can use a sharp object through the mesh in the side panel to gently push the magnet back out of the hole to flip it to the correct polarity. Use just a tiny amount of glue if necessary.)
     
28. Install the magnetic side panels by hooking the bottom of the panel onto the 45 degree angle at the bottom of the chassis, and enjoy your new PC! 
    
    
    
    Don't forget to post a “Make” of your PC to show others your new awesome build!
     
    
     

READ BEFORE BUILD: All threaded inserts used in this build are M3 with an outer diameter of 4.6mm. The insert length can be 5 or 6mm. All screws used in this build are M3x10mm screws if nothing else is specified. The order in which the parts are assembled will be different in this written guide than in the video.

1. Start by carefully snapping off the custom support pillars inside the GPU slot and add two M3 threaded inserts to the main body, one inside of the GPU slot and one at the bottom of the slot from the inside of the case.
    
   
    
2. Now grab the internal panel and continue to add M3 threaded inserts in the locations show in the pictures below.
   
   
    
3. Secure the internal panel to the main chassis using four M3 screws on each side.
   
   
    
4. Add three M3 threaded inserts to the PSU brackets, two in the L-shaped bracket and one in the other bracket.
   
   
    
5. Attach the lower PSU bracket to the Flex PSU using three #6-32 screws.
   
   
    
6. Lay the main body on its side with the motherboard standoffs facing up and place your Flex PSU flat onto the front end of the internal panel and align the hole in the chassis with the threaded insert in the PSU bracket and secure it in place using a M3 screw from the outside. (See picture in step 7)
    
7. Position the L-shaped PSU bracket around the upper part of the PSU and secure it in place with one M3 screw from the outside of the case, and one more M3 screw from the backside of the internal panel.
   
   
   
   
    
8. Secure the lower PSU bracket to the internal main chassis by adding two M3 screws to the underside of the chassis. (See picture in step 7)
    
9. Carefully pre-bend the PCIe riser cable into approximately this shape shown here, and place it in between the motherboard standoffs. The connector that goes into the motherboard should be up at the top near the fan mount. (PCIe riser cable has to be 300mm long and have a 90° connector on the GPU side.)
   
   
    
10. Place the ITX motherboard (upside down) onto the four standoffs making sure not to pinch the PCIe cable and secure it in place using four M3 screws. Carefully plug the PCIe cable into the motherboard.
    
    
    
    
     
11. Turn the case around and carefully pull the PCIe riser cable towards you at a slight angle so you can attach it to your GPU before carefully working your GPU into it's final position and secure the GPU in place using one screw inside the GPU slot, and one from the inside of the case at the bottom of the metal bracket.
    
    
    (This screenshot is from the build video, so the order in which things are assembled will deviate slightly)
     
12. Grab two slim 92mm PC fans and secure them in place using regular computer fan screws.
    
    
     
13. Attach the 12mm power button and secure it in place from the inside using the supplied nut.
    
    
    
    
     
14. Attach all necessary cables like GPU-, CPU- and 24-pin motherboard power as well as fan connectors and the power button. Clean up the cables using some zip-ties to make sure they stay flush inside of the chassis. Also make sure that no cables block the top exhaust fans from spinning.
     
    
     
15. The system should now work and you can test it to ensure that everything works as intended, also make sure all the fans are spinning freely without touching any cables.
     
16. Slide the top panel into the slot in the top panel. The panel has two notches on one side that should align with the small rectangular divots in the main chassis. These are there to lock the panel into place. (The center "joint" is there to ensure the panel does not flex and is also cross-compatible with the 180mm version of the case.)
    
    
     
17. Slide the front panel with the logo into the front of the chassis. Make sure the bumps in the middle of the panel snap into the divots in the main chassis. The logo part should be at the bottom of the panel.
    
    
     
18. Attach four 8x3mm neodymium magnets to each side of the upper main chassis, use a tiny drop of glue if neccessary.
    
    
     
19. Place the main chassis on it's side with the magnets facing up and align the side panels one at a time with the correct side of the case so the magnet holes on the side panel is also facing up. Place the magnets one at a time into the holes on the side panel making sure each magnet gets the correct polarity. Use a tiny amount of glue if necessary.
    
    
    (See the video for better explaination around correct magnet polarity. If you end up messing up one of the magnets polarity don't worry. You can use a sharp object through the mesh in the side panel to gently push the magnet back out of the hole to flip it to the correct polarity.)
     
20. Attach the magnetic side panels to the case and enjoy your new build! Don't forget to post a “Make” of your PC to show others your new awesome PC!