Electronics compartment for Flying Bear Reborn 2 (or any other if you change some parameters)

ATTENTION - cooling fan changes coming soon. Also increased the depth of the current fan mounts in case you want to swap them out thus there's enough room for a printed adapter sheet for a smaller version. Might actually ditch the integrated fan spot in favour of a cut-out for a separate fan mount/duct should anyone want to mount 4010, 4020, 4028, 4056, 4028, 8025, 9225 radials or dual 5020s or any other turbine fan. My testing so far shows that higher static pressure is better than high airflow. Fix for already printed enclosures will be possibly physically cutting out the same area but as I have not decided on whether to use glue, double-sided tape or some kind of screws I will not dive too deep into this. Possibly might design a collar with an integrated locking that is meant to be glued in should you have to do the cutting of already printed part and add the ease of modding different fan mounts in there. Let me know in the comments.

MAKE SURE TO CHECK THE MEASUREMENTS BEFORE PRINTING

The WHY?

I thought that once I started modding my Flying Bear Reborn 2, I was going to be unable to stop halfway through. One of the biggest gripes with FBR2 is it's original electronics compartment - it's too tiny for any proper upgrades, original fan is really weak and runs loud, the top casing gets in the way of the bed gantry if maximum Z-height is needed etc, etc.

So, at first I modded and printed out a Trident 1.X electronics compartment that is meant for rear mount, however I managed to mess up my printer frame measurements and did not check the model measurements either, printed it out to find that it's 5mm too tall - about 500 grams of PETG basically wasted. PS - if you are interested in that model, I can upload it, just let me know.

You can reuse the original bottom plate the printer comes with, however you gotta figure out how you are going to fill the corners. As the measurements showed, the print came out a bit crooked so it's about 1-1.5mm off from end to end when bolted up into single piece. Considering that I made the cuts 10.8mm from the edge where the M4 bolts reside. To get it a bit more airtight I recommend using a black textile tape if you have black-on-black setup like I do. Otherwise, use the tape underneath.
I did the cut with sharp carpenters knife. Slow and steady and be careful. You do not need to cut through the plastic, about halfway through is enough and then you can slowly start bending it until it breaks. Clean the shap edges with deburring tool.

In case you were wondering, what if the fan is installed reverse? Well, here are the screenshots - I started printing with the fan pulling air through the enclosure and then mid print turned it around to push air into the enclosure. Ambient temperature that time was over 28C and humidity around  60%. I started second print almost as short as first one and with fan installed correctly from the start, MCU temperatures did not go above 49C, in fact it hovered around 47.9…48.6, two unknown Z-steppers are running at 1.2 amps and 24V, two LDO 2504-s for XY are at 1.6 amps and 24V.

Hot start

Turned the fan around