Over engineered desk lamp

This Over Engineered Desk Lamp (OEDL for short) is very loosely inspired by the DIYson lamp, though my main objective was to make mine exclusively with parts I already had on hand.

For this reason, I don't really advise that you make one with the exact same parts, I think that the best thing to do would be to modify it to fit the parts you have (/ parts you can get your hands on). To make modifying my design easier, I have included all of the STL files and the STEP files which contains the 4 subassemblies (Base, Boom, carriage and LED holder) which have all of the 20+ 3D printed parts. 

All of the parts can be printed in PLA or PETG (/ similar), except for the carriage's rollers which have to be printed in a flexible material (I used TPU).

The lighting element I have used is a repurposed led bar from an IKEA “HÅRTE” in which the articulating part was broken. I recommend that you modify the parts that hold the Light to fit whichever LED light you want.

For powering the light, I used a USB C socket which I soldered wires to directly, it's not really meant for it and the soldering was not easy but it can be done (I also covered the fragile pins in epoxy after soldering to protect them while assembling the light). Here is the USB C socket I have used, thought I don't really recommend it :  https://www.tme.eu/be/en/details/usb4085-gf-a/usb-ieee1394-connectors/global-connector-technology-gct/ . Unless you are good at soldering, I would recommend using some kind of breakout board or just passing a wire directly out of the box with a USB end on it. I also had issues trying to use the USB-C socket with C to C cables, I tried to use 5.1K resistors on the CC1 and CC2 pins but I doesn't work, for now my lamp only works when connected with an A to C cable… I might try to fix this issue at some point but for now it doesn't botter me. Aside from that, the wiring is really simple, I just connected the 5V and GND on the right pins of the USB C socket and on the LED as well as connected the switch in series on the positive side.

For mounting the light, I clamped the main vertical tube to my monitor's mount. While that might not be something you want to do, I'm sure you can figure out a way of modifying the files to add attachment points that fit your desk.

Here is the list of parts I have used :

• 20mm OD x1mm aluminium tube, 1m in total (400mm for the boom and 600mm for the vertical tube)
• 608 ZZ bearing x2 (main pivot)
• 626 RS bearing x3 (carriage rollers)
• M8x80mm (or longer) x1 (for the main pivot point)
• M6x20mm x2 (for the carriage)
• M6x20mm threaded rod (for the carriage)
• M4x10mm x4 (for the parts that clamp around the aluminium tubes)
• M4x25mm shoulder bolt (with a square end on the end, fits inside of the Led attachment point of the carriage)
• M3x40mm x3 (for the base)
• M3x20mm x1 (for the carriage)
• M2x20mm x2 (for the carriage)
• M2x12mm x2 (for the LED holder)
• M8 nut x1
• M6 nuts x4
• M4 nuts x5
• M3 nuts x4
• M2 nuts x4
• Standard toggle switch x1 (https://www.tme.eu/be/en/details/tsm102f1/toggle-switches/)
• Wire (about 1.5m x2), I used 20 AWG (0.5 mm^2) stranded wire but anything smaller will fit
• Metal wire, roughly 1 - 1.2mm thick, I reused a piece of bicycle shifting cable, cut to about 450mm and glued in on both ends.
• 2 small springs around 4mm in diameter, roughly 15mm long when not compressed (I used a spring from a retractable pen, cut in 2).

Send me a message / email if you want more informations or are having issues with the assembly.