Beta V3 - SEND IT! Overhead Backlit Double 85mm Gauge Pods (read description for instructions and important notes)

Updates:

I finally tested the rear cap fitment and found that they were a bit tight. I've since replaced both the rear cap and the pods with updated files that have better fitment. Sorry to those that may have already printed these components. If you've already printed the pods, you may still be able to use it. The cap hook's holes in the pods were just enlarged a little bit to give it a touch more “slop” but the hooks did fit. If you already printed the caps, while you could shave down the screw hole's inside diameter face a bit (most of the interference was within the small radius near the screw hole), I recommend just printing the new version to save yourself some time and aggravation and because I beefed up the hook (one of my test piece's hooks actually broke off very easily).

I apologize for the length of it but please read the entire description before you go forward with this project. Printing the description out would help too. This project isn't difficult but there are many details and important notes here that'll make the process much easier.

I know I only just recently added this model, but I've had a prototype pod mounted to the roof of my golf cart now (blue triple gauge pod pictured) for about 6 months now. It doesn't have the rear mounting tab with additional screw holes between the legs or the backer plate installed (these were added to the design afterward). It also has a two-piece mount, with a wedge, because after printing the prototype and installing it, I discovered the pod's design didn't have as much down tilt as I would've liked. The pods held up very well - until I started storing the cart outdoors under a cover. The sun on the black cover seems to have created a bit more heat than what even the roof with the added weight of the gauge pods can handle. The roof bowed under the weight of the pods. The roof itself is made of a flexible enough material that it easily pushes back up into the proper shape, so that's not a concern. The pod mount, however, has taken on the same bow the roof sagged into. This being a prototype, I was conservative on walls and infill. If you're considering using this pod design for your own golf cart build, thanks to the design alterations I've already made, coupled with you potentially using stronger settings than I did, you may not have this issue (it may also depend on the type of golf cart you're using since roof lines differ between makes. For reference, mine is a Yamaha G9. It has a curve incorporated into the front edge of the roof, and that may be where the weakness that caused my issue is). You also may not have this issue if your cart isn't being stored under a black cover in direct sunlight. Just know that it's a possibility though. When I get my “final” double gauge pod completed (black pods pictured), I’m going to install it. I'm also going to add some reinforcement steel to the underside of the roof to give it more rigidity (probably just some light gauge steel plate with its edges bent at a 90 degree angle but I'm still in the early stages of this idea and I may go about it in a different way). Since it's already printed and I can't remove the EL wire from the mount, I'll still be using PETG. I'll also be adding extra walls and top/bottom layers to my backer plate when I print it. Along with making the roof more rigid with the addition of sheet metal, I'm also considering adding a strip of 3M double-sided tape to the front of the mount between the screw holes to further aid in keeping the mount from bowing by supporting it in the middle where, even if I added screw holes (I'm a major advocate in overkilling my solutions), they wouldn't be all that accessible due to the letters being in the way of tools. DESPITE my recommendations below, you may want to consider ASA or ABS, as I've heard they're more rigid under high heat applications. That said, I'm still relatively new to 3D printing and am NOT a filament expert, nor am I too proud to admit my ignorance. If anybody prints this and is willing to let me know how well it works for him/her, please do so! 

***Latest addition regarding the mount's strength in high heat: I've added an updated mount, featuring the addition of two centered mounting holes. The new mounting hole in the body of the mount (vs the one in the flat surface near the rear) isn't exactly centered. This means the backer plate now has a top and bottom. This modified mount also has additional basic (unthreaded) cable entry ports coming in from the top (flat side) so if you happen to want the wires completely concealed within a headliner, this is now possible. I do NOT recommend using these added entry ports to feed wires through the outermost layer of your roof though, as it would definitely allow water to access the pods. I wouldn't even risk it using caulk. I have not printed the Modified Gauge Mount, although the holes are just additions to the original proven model.***

Notice below where some edits have been made to reflect this newly discovered bowing issue (italicized text).

Intro:

Are you / did you build a fast ride, ORV style and have no place to install gauges? If you have a roof, with this gauge pod, it's now a place to consider! I designed this for my golf cart that's getting a snowmobile engine installed. I have an 85mm multi-gauge and a tachometer that I want to install. My problem is, there's really no good place in the dash for gauges that won't get blocked by beverages or take up space I've designated for the stereo… So, I designed a variation of this gauge pod. I actually have an 85mm multi-gauge and the tachometer is 72mm blue pods/black mount in pics (52mm pod scribbled out in the pics to clarify the fact that this model isn't a triple gauge pod). The black pod pics are backlit but do not have removable rear caps. Instead, they have through-holes for nut drivers to tighten the gauge hardware. I like the look but it's a bit of a pain to work with). Ultimately, this means I haven't printed this version (model posted). I'm sharing pictures of the ones I have printed so you can get an idea of how it'll look - and proof of concept. This model is BASED off the versions I have printed. The only change I made, other than the 72mm pod size to 85mm is the rear caps. I'm ASSUMING I gave the caps enough tolerance to fit into the pods. If not, PLEASE let me know and I'll adjust them to fit better right away! My final print is in black but I made the renderings blue so you can see more detail. My original design also had a 52mm pod under the larger ones but I've since redesigned it without it. I don't want to run the thermocouple wire it requires because I'd prefer to only have one cable running up to the roof. If you're interested in a triple gauge pod though, please let me know! I'm considering sharing my design for the standalone 52mm pod too. It's the similar style to the model in my pics (through-holes instead of removable rear caps), minus the “SEND IT!”. It's still backlit though and on a locking tilt-adjustable mount. Let me know if you're interested!

Notes:

This model requires gluing.

Block supports from printing inside the mount - especially the Electroluminescent (EL) channel! 

EL wire uses a low voltage AC power and requires a driver to work. It's best to install this driver somewhere other than inside the pods. 

Pods: The pods and mount were printed with PETG. If your pods are to be mounted inside an enclosed vehicle, similar to inside a car, and could reach extreme temperatures like in a car sitting in the sun, you'll want to use PETG or more heat resistant filament - NOT PLA. After further research, I'm wanting to try ABS GF out. I think it'd be a great fit. It requires a heated chamber to print though. If you don't have a heated chamber, I recommend you use the Modified Gauge Mount and Modified Backer Plate for added mounting support.

Tools:

1. Phillips/crosshead (mounting bolts) screwdriver with at least 6" shaft
2. Phillips/crosshead (mounting bolts) screwdriver bit
3. Ratchet with screwdriver bit adapter OR ¼" socket (bit can fall out of a socket - it'll work)
4. Maybe a pair of pliers (to hold the screwdriver bit in areas where a ratchet won't fit)
5. Second ratchet (unless you use the pliers to hold the screwdriver bit; in which case, you'll only need one ratchet for the entire job)
6. 7mm socket that fits the second ratchet
7. IF you're using a cable port cap, large flathead (slotted) screwdriver and electrical tape or paper tower
8. Needle nose pliers
9. Nut drivers appropriate for your gauges' mounting hardware

You will need:

1. Both an FDM and SLA printer (I haven't printed letters or fittings in FDM. Tolerances may not work)
2. Painter's tape
3. Strong glue (I used gel super glue but whatever you prefer/trust)
4. 2.6mm EL wire w/driver (white is the brightest, with lime green being second)
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/153027147709?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=AwCqhhiqTHG&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=8ic4DxD2RJ6&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY 
5. Two #6 X ¾" (3.5 X 19-20mm) long wood screws
6. Six*, M4 Phillips head bolts (long enough to pass through the mount, mounting surface, and backer plate), with cap nuts (plain hex nuts are fine but may snag on a vehicle storage cover) and race washers. If in doubt of proper length of bolts, err on the side of caution and get longer ones. You can cut them to length later. *Eight if you're using the modified Overhead Gauge Mount and Backer Plate
7. 3M double-sided tape (unless you're using the Modified Gauge Mount and Modified Backer Plate)
8. Heat shrink tubing:
   https://ellumiglow.com/products/colored-heat-shrink-tubing-10-pack
9. Soldering kit, including wire strippers, needle nose pliers, heat gun (or lighter/something to shrink the heat shrink tubing). See link for video instructions. There's a lot of videos available, so keep watching them until you're comfortable with the process.

Instructions and additional details:

1. I'm not going to tell you all the printer settings. I'm still relatively new at printing but I do know this: don't allow supports to any internal channels, the leg holes in the pods didn't need support but without them, the positive stop edges may require some minor trimming. Use your preferred settings for making strong parts. I DO recommend a high wall count and high infill though.
2. For the backlighting (letters and pod faces), I'm using 2.6mm EL wire. EL wire is typically NOT very bright. I bought some on eBay, available only from the UK, claiming to be twice as bright - and cost three times as much - as well as needing stronger drivers since they use twice the amount of power (link above). Keep the power requirements in mind when selecting yours. Despite the length you purchase, you'll likely have to cut your EL wire to length, so there's some soldering of tiny wires involved and plenty of instructional videos on YouTube to learn how. 
3. There are alternatives to EL wire. I recently learned there's flexible LED wire that is tons brighter and maybe easier to work with, but I don't have any experience with it (I also don't know if it generates heat in excess of what PETG can handle). With some “homework” you may find a brighter source than EL wire. Make sure you check the product's minimum radius and that it's AT LEAST ½".
4. For the pods, you can simply dress the EL wire in after printing. 
5. For the mount, print it near either the front or rear of the bed - not the center (make sure you give your bed extra time to heat up). DO NOT KINK THE EL WIRE AT ANY TIME! 2.6mm EL wire is flexible but only down to a ½" (12.7mm) radius. You'll need to pause the print before the EL wire's channel is covered, insert the dummy end of the wire (farthest from the plug) into one end of the letter inset channel, starting at the inside where it meets with the cable channel's corner (the same corner you intend to have its power source entering) and lay it inside the channel along its entire length. I used a couple drops (bare minimum) of super glue in areas where the wire didn't want to lay flat in the channel. Once the wire is in the channel and secure, lay it in along the bottom of the cable entry port and route it out the end (it won't be completed yet at this stage so it's very straightforward and easy). Coil the excess wire up, and tape it to the bed out of the way. After the wire is out of the way and taped securely to the bed, resume printing. 
6. Connect power to the EL wire and test.
7. Once the mount and pods are printed, uncoil the wire (make sure it isn't twisted), insert the end of it back into the same cable port it's coming out of (I cut the plug off from mine first, leaving enough copper wire on both sides of the cut, for easy splicing. This made it easier for the wire to turn the corner. I've since enlarged both of the inside channel corners to better accommodate a GPS connector so you may not have to cut yours at this point).
8.  Being careful not to let it kink as it doubles back on itself, feed it around the interior corner and pull it out of the rear leg where the pod attaches. Pay extra close attention as you get to the last few inches pulled - don't let it loop as this will cause a kink when you pull it tight - and would be a blockage for your gauge wires if you choose not to pull it tight!
9. If possible, test the EL wire again!

Fittings: 

1. The finials are NOT strain reliefs or moisture barriers. They simply “dress up” the channel ports. You could opt not to use them entirely, but you'd be left seeing the threaded holes. If you are concerned with moisture getting into the gauge pods, you can use clear silicone caulk to seal up around the cable. 
2. The large cable finial fits a 6-wire (18ga or smaller) shielded cable perfectly (shielding used for grounding). This should be enough wires for a multi-gauge: ignition (+), main ground/shielding (-), gauge illumination (+), fuel (+), AC power for EL wire (+ & -), and tachometer: tach (+), main ground/shielding (-), gauge illumination shared with the multi-gauge. CAT5 cable (preferably still shielded) will also fit (not to mention give you two more wires), although loosely. If for any reason you need a larger cable, the finial hole may wind up being too small. If this turns out to be the case and you don't want to use two cables, one in each of the mount's wire entry port, you can either carefully drill it out - or let me know what size you need the finial's hole to be, and I'll design one for you.
3. The slotted finial works perfectly for a GPS antenna cable with a non-removable coax threaded connector (my multi-gauge's speedometer is GPS-based). 
4. If you use the wire port cap to close off an unused wire/cable port in the mount, and print it out of ABS-like resin, the slot has been deliberately enlarged so you can wrap the screwdriver tip with a paper towel or electrical tape, so the slot's faces are better protected from scarring/chipping.
5. Be prepared to print multiple fittings - in case you break the threads (print a finial even if you're only planning on using wire port caps in the modified mount). These threads are not standard, so you'll likely not find steel bolts good for clearing the threads, although in hindsight, it would've made things easier (it's my first ever design, cut me some slack!). I’m working on  changing the threads out to match a 5/8”-11 thread to fix this. For appearance’s sake, consider the fittings you use to clear the threads to be disposable and replaced with new ones afterward. I've only had one mount print with unusable threads, and I account that to my low-level experience in slicer settings more than anything else (nozzle temp was too high and caused layers to sag), but I did break a few fittings. If a couple threads happen to chip away, consider using the fitting anyway. These fittings are, as stated earlier, just for looks and there's plenty of threads to hold them. For any fitting you're using, and you print them out of ABS-like resin, be gentle. Work first without tools and only resort to using tools if all else fails. The pieces are brittle and with the mount being printed with the threaded holes being vertical and without internal supports (never add supports to threads), you'll likely have to work the pieces in and out, gradually progressing toward full seating. If you plan to use the wire port cap in one of your mount's cable entry ports: for clearing the threads in the mount, use a cable finial instead. It'll give you more to grip and will likely have fewer issues during the process. Clean the threads in the mount after every pass with the finial. Even the lightest amount of resin buildup can cause further resistance. Use light pressure and take your time. After the mount's threads have been cleared with a cable finial, you can then carefully install the wire port cap.
6. If, while clearing the threads, the finial jams - then breaks upon removal, the ABS-like resin piece/s remaining can be removed from the mount by further breaking it into pieces.
   Example: once, on a prototype piece, the slot in a wire port cap snapped clean off, leaving me with nothing to grip onto to remove the remaining threaded section. I used a pocketknife, inserting the tip of it between the threads of the fitting and the model, then carefully used a twisting motion. The resin started chipping away and it wasn't long before I broke the entire fitting and was able to extract the pieces with minimal damage to the mount. This is practically worst-case scenario and it's the worst scenario I encountered. Drilling a hole into the jammed finial or using an easy-out could also help with removal but be cautious of damaging the mount's threads. *While the brittleness may seem like a nuisance, this is actually one of the characteristics I selected it for in the first place - because I knew the potential for thread-jamming exists - especially in the prototyping stage. The other reason is because I like the level of translucence it offers. These fittings look - and act much like glass! Also, the fittings' hardness helps to assure the thread-cleaning process cleans the mount's threads more than the fittings'.

Letters:

I recommend you install the letters after all other prep work is done (thread cleaning, etc).

1. I don't know how well or strong the letter's struts will turn out if FDM-printed. They weren't designed with this in mind. The struts are definitely not designed to be extremely strong to start with. They're only there to help the letters to resist any direct impacts that may occur during use. As such, they're only capable of handling straight pushes/pulls. Take extra care when handling.
2. Apply a modest amount of glue to the strut pockets and letter contact points on the mount and legs (flat faces only). When resin-printed, the tolerances for the struts are relatively close. When setting the letters, avoid smearing the glue into visible areas. Align the legs to the leg pockets in the mount and start inserting them. Only use light direct pressure when inserting them into the pockets on the mount. Once they're all aligned and insertion is started, align the letters to the mount. Notice that below the letters, in the leg faces, there is a ledge that the letters fit over (letters right side up), so they're slightly inset into the legs (to maximize glue area). Use care when installing and don't force it!

Assembly

1. Once the pods and mount are both finished printing and the EL wire is re-routed into the mount's leg, simply feed the wire into the corresponding pod's rear leg hole. 
2. It's beneficial to you later in installation if the bolts have a snug fit so if they go in - even with resistance, skip this step. Before joining the pods to the mount, test fit your M4 mounting bolts in the mount. If necessary, drill the mount's holes out a little. 
3. Dry-fit (no glue) the pods and mount together. The leg openings in the pods are deliberately left with a little bit of material in them. Don't remove it! This extra material acts as both additional adhesion area and as a positive stop for the assembly process. Too much pressure may break them, so be careful. I personally didn't have any issues with the positive stops breaking on mine and they felt solid, but I feel I should still make mention of it here. If your printer settings did their job well, there may actually be a slight struggle getting all four legs aligned. I didn't want any gaps here, so the tolerances are deliberately a bit on the tight side. As you can see in the pictures though, assuming your printer is calibrated well enough (mine was good enough “out of the box”), they will fit together.
4. After that, run the EL wire up the inner wall groove within the first pod, inside the face groove, then back down to the rear of the pod inside the same inner wall groove (a little glue to secure it into the groove and out of the gauge's way isn't necessary but can't hurt. Just don't glue it in until after the wire is completely routed, terminated, and successfully tested though). After that, feed the wire through the rear pod connecting tube and repeat the process in the other pod. Once you're satisfied, cut the remaining wire off (make sure you leave enough length to install your plug without any non-EL wire laying in the face groove). I actually recommend you leave the EL wire long enough to reach the rear of the pod so your solder points won't interfere with the gauge body fitment.
5. Follow YouTube tutorial instructions referenced earlier to properly connect the EL wire your wires/plug.
6. Test your EL wire again!
7. Undress the EL wire from the pods and remove the pods from the mount. Apply some glue in the pod's leg openings then reassemble. Redress the EL wire and if necessary, glue them into the channels, out of the way.
8. Run your gauge cable/wires through the wire cable finial, into the mount cable port, through & up into the pod and out its face. Separate the wires in your cable, leaving enough to easily make all connections - including the second gauge pod. You're now ready to connect the gauges. Remove the gauge mounting hardware and insert the gauges into the face rings (one ring per gauge) and connect all your wires. 
9. With mounting hardware removed, insert the gauges into their respective pod face openings. Install mounting hardware from the rear opening of the pod (needle nose pliers or socket w/extension / nut driver may come in handy), clock your gauge to the desired position, and tighten. You don't need a lot of torque, just enough to stop the gauges from rotating freely. 
10. For ease of access, it’s recommended you test your gauges now.
11. Using the #6 wood screws for each rear pod cap, install the cap at an angle, inserting the alignment tab into its slot first, then push the cap into position on the pod. With a wood screw, secure the cap into place. The screws will thread themselves in. Tighten until they’re fully seated. Hand-tighten only! Using a drill or powered screwdriver risks stripping the holes out.

Installation:

1. The backer plate is for reinforcing the mount surface if it's flexible like my golf cart roof is. The backer plate goes on the backside of the mounting surface (for me, that means on top of the roof. This could also be the opposite face of a “sub-roof”) to “sandwich” the mounting surface between the mount and backer plate.
2. A second person would be helpful in this step. Drill holes in the mounting surface after careful pod placement consideration. An easy approach to figuring out your hole placement is to set the backer plate on top of the mount with the screw holes aligned (it may help if you put screws in a couple of the holes to assist in alignment). Place your pod exactly where you want it on the surface. Once you're satisfied with placement, use painter's tape to secure the backer plate in place.
3. Without disturbing the backer plate, remove the pods. Mark your holes on your mounting surface (roof) based on the backer plate's location. Once marked, remove the backer plate and drill the bolt holes as straight as possible. Alternatively, you can skip the marking step and just drill through the backer plate's holes - be careful not to damage the backer plate.
4. Unless you're using the Modified Gauge Mount and Modified Backer Plate, for a little “anti-bow” insurance, add a strip of 3M double-sided tape between the front (letter edge) screw holes before installing the bolts. Insert M4 bolts in the mount, up through the drilled holes in the mounting surface, and through the backer plate (if you choose to use it), Be sure both the mount and the mounting surface are as clean as possible beforehand. If necessary, cut your bolts to length, leaving enough thread sticking out for your washers and nuts. I recommend using stainless M4 race washers to spread the force out and cap nuts to cover the threads. 
5. Due to the pods being so close to the mount near the rear, I found that using a Phillip/crosshead screwdriver bit held with a 1/4 " wrench or socket works relatively well (long, skinny screwdriver for the center bolts). The mount's holes should be a snug enough fit to hold the bolts in place under a light load anyway. Also, I suggest using Phillips/crosshead bolts because even without perfect bit alignment, they seem to hold well enough for this job.

That's it. You're finally done and ready to enjoy your "SEND IT! Overhead Backlit Double 85mm Gauge Pods"

If you like this model, please share your makes! Also, feel free to contact me for any of your design needs and consider sharing my name as a designer as well!