Starlink Dishy Pole / Pipe Mount Adapter (for Square Dish)

Permanent-mount Starlink Dish Adapter

This is a custom-designed adapter to mount the square Starlink satellite dish - fondly known as "Dishy" - to a 1" threaded galvanized pipe that is set in concrete. I created the adapter to make a permanent mount for the dish instead of continuing to use the portable mount that comes with the package. Note that Starlink sells a permanent mount adapter kit, but I wanted to try my hand at designing and fabricating my own. After having great results with my design, I decided to make it available for others.

The top half of the adapter has a mating interface that matches the dish's pole - the dish simply slides and latches into place just as it does with the Starlink mounts. To remove the dish, simply press the button on the dish's pole and it will pull up and out of the adapter.

The bottom half of the adapter has a threaded interface to receive a 1" galvanized NPT threaded pipe. The adapter is attached to the 1" pipe by screwing it down onto the pipe's threads. FYI - note that nominal 1" pipe is actually 1.313 inches in diameter. If the threaded fit isn't snug enough, a wrap of teflon tape on the pipe's threads before screwing on the adapter will snug it up.

Keep in mind that this design is freely offered, and that no guarantees or warranties are given or implied. Also note that the “X” logo in some of the pics are owned/trademarked by SpaceX.

Material:
I used PETG for this print because it is more UV resistant than PLA, and I wanted it to be strong, durable, and survive long-term out in the elements. ASA would be another good filament choice. While I can't say that PLA would be completely unsuitable, its applicability should be carefully considered before putting your expensive Starlink dish on it.

Slicing and Printing:
I sliced the model with the settings specified in the "Print Settings" section. I originally printed it on an Ender 3 V2 using Sunlu PETG. I used the cubic infill pattern at 20% density to ensure structural strength. I sliced it with supports using the supports anchored "everywhere" mode to be certain that the dish button inset had a sharp, flat edge for the latch. Be sure that supports DO NOT get printed in the threads - use support blockers in this area. A support column is recommended to be added in the center of the pipe cutout to support the ceiling above it. I used a small, square column (15x15mm) in the center. It may be possible to print without a support in this location, although it is likely to result in some sag in the ceiling that may reduce the distance into which the pipe may be screwed.

Mounting the Pipe:
I permanently mounted a 36 inch long, 1" galvanized pipe in a hole with quick-set concrete. I dug an 18 inch diameter hole to a depth of about 15 inches. An inch of gravel was placed at the bottom of the hole. I threaded a small galvanized T-shaped pipe adapter to the bottom of the pipe to prevent the pipe from being able to twist/rotate after the hardening of the concrete.

The 3D-printed adapter may now be threaded onto the top of the pipe (using teflon tape if desired/required). After mounting, I taped a plastic bag over it to keep it clean through the steps that follow.

I mixed up a 60lb bag of quick-set concrete following the directions on the bag, and then filled the hole with about 4 inches. I oriented the pipe so that when mounted, the dish would be facing in the desired direction, and then pressed the pipe down into the center of the hole (the end of the pipe with the T-fitting). I used a level to make sure the pipe was vertical, and then place some temporary supports to hold the pipe steady. I then added the rest of the concrete and again made sure the pipe was vertical using the level, and that the temporary supports would hold it that way while the concrete dried.

Allow the concrete to stay exposed to air and dry for at least 24 hours. After verifying that the pipe is solidly anchored, the Starlink dish may be slid into the top of the adapter. Make sure that the latch engages and the button pops back out to securely hold it in place.

Print Settings:

• Printer:  Creality Ender 3 V2
• Rafts:  No
• Supports:  Yes
• Layer height:  0.3mm
• Infill:  20% cubic
• Filament brand:  Sunlu
• Filament color:  Blue
• Filament material:  PETG

Notes:

I used PETG filament for its strength and suitability for outdoor applications. ASA would be another good choice.

Supports may possibly be omitted, but I included them to ensure a sharp edge at the top of the inset where the dish release button snaps into place, and to prevent any sag of the floor above the pipe threads.

I designed the model in Fusion 360 and printed it on a stock Ender 3 V2 with a .4mm print nozzle. The print settings I used included .3mm layer thickness, 4-line walls, 4-layer top and bottom thickness, 20% cubic infill, 240C print head temp, 65C bed temp, 50mm/s max print speed with 25mm/s wall speed, and 150mm/s travel speed.

How I Designed This:

I designed this part using Autodesk Fusion 360. To create the model, I measured the features on "dishy" using digital calipers to create a mating interface. For the 1" galvanized pipe side, I used a model from McMaster-Carr as a tool to create that mating interface.