Y-axis drive with rack and pinion

Basic infos:
1. The heatbed shift per 1 motor revolution is the same as the original timing belt.
2. The new motor bracket and pinion are mounted in the same way using the same
screws and nuts as the original bracket and drive pulley.
3. The backlash-free contact and the pressure in the gearing ensures the original return
pulley with mounted o-rings.
4. The motor is mounted under the heatbed, which must be 12 mm higher reducing the
usable Z-axis lift to 198 mm (enter this into the slicer).
5. The total rebuild time is max 90 minutes and to change just the gear rack take approx
1 minute without tools.
6. The material of all parts is PETG, only the pinion is made from silver PLA.
7. Everything can be returned to its original state at any time🙂.

Installation instructions (see photos):
1. DISCONNECT THE PRINTER FROM THE POWER SUPPLY FOR SAFETY!
2. Replace the four original y-rod-holders with longer ones (can lubricate the linear
bushings) while removing the belt tensioner, the original motor bracket and the return
pulley bracket.
3. Don’t disconnect the motor power supply, just move the motor under the frame to the
front of the printer.
4. Remove the original pulley from motor, mount the pinion to aligning with the end of
the shaft and secure it with two original M4x4 screws.
5. Assemble the pressure lever using M3x16 screw + M3 hex nut + original return pulley
with fitted 10x2,5 (3 pcs) and 14x2 (2 pcs) o-rings (hardness 90 ShA) or other so that
the max diameter of the pressure pulley is about 20 mm.
6. Insert the two M3 hex nuts into the motor bracket and screw M3x12 set-screw so that
it sticks out about 2 mm. Mount the motor using four M3x16 hex screws with washers
and tighten only the two screws on the right side.
7. Insert the pressure lever into the gap between the bracket and motor, push the lever
to the M3x12 set-screw and tighten the two remaining hex screws.
8. Move the heatbed fully to the LCD and pull the motor bracket from behind through
the cut-out in the frame and fix it into the original holes with two M3x10 screws. The
gap between the pinion and the heatbed frame should be about 1.5 mm.
9. Replace the front-center countersunk head screw for fixing the heatbed with a longer
M3x25 screw.
10. Insert a 5x1 (outer diameter x thickness) silicone tube (60 ShA) into the hinge eye of
the rack (it must be self-fixed) and cut it off on both sides.
11. Carefully insert the rack between the pressure pulley and the pinion and push up the
hinge eye with the silicone tube onto the M3x25 screw (the rack is not secured by
any nut).
12. Move the heatbed again fully to the LCD and carefully slide the grip on the end of the
rack (on the dovetail) and lock it to the heatbed spacer.
13. Turn on the printer, check the pressure value in the "printer calibration - belt test"
mode (265 to 285) or adjust the position of the pressure lever and PRINT!