ATX PC Case - 180 x 180 mm print volume!

Check out the full build video on YouTube:

Total case size: 360 x 360 x 200mm.

This case supports the following PC components:

• Normal ATX, mATX and ITX motherboards
• ATX PSU up to 140mm depth or SFX PSU.
• Graphics cards up to 335 millimeters. (Max 3-slot/61mm thick if using ATX PSU)
• Top mounted 120/240mm radiator or 2x 120mm exhaust fans.
• Front mounted 120/240/280mm radiator or 2x 120/140mm intake fans.
• Bottom mounted up to 2x 120/140mm intake fans.
• Up to 4x 3.5" Hard Drives
• CPU Air cooler up to 155mm tall

By scrolling further down on the page, there are written step-by-step instructions from start to finish, with explainations and pictures to guide you through the whole assembly process.

There is an “update log” at the very bottom of the page where all current, and future updates of this model, will be listed.

External parts required to build this case:

• M3 Threaded inserts (OD 4.6mm, length 5 or 6 mm)
• M3 x 10mm screws
• 8 x 3 mm Neodymium magnets
• 12 mm Power Button (pre-wired)
• Glue for the magnets and butterfly joints 
  (Use only a tiny amount of glue per part, avoid filling the holes too much)
  
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Recommended print settings:

• Material:            PETG, ABS, ASA, (Optional PLA if building a low power/low heat system)
• Layer height:   0.2mm (higher layers may affect the tight tolerances)
• Nozzle size:      0.4 or 0.6.
• Speed:                 Whatever is recommended for your printer.

NOTE: Panel number 6, 7, 9, 10, 12, 13, 15, 17, TR, TF, BR, BF, FL and FU should be printed without top and bottom layers. Using only infill and walls, this is what creates the perforated pattern in the middle part of the case, and without these holes there will be no airflow!

Recommended infill settings for the perforated panels:

• 20% with a 0.4mm nozzle or 30% with a 0.6mm nozzle.
• Infill type: Honeycomb (Found in PrusaSlicer, OrcaSlicer and many more)
• Walls should be about 5 walls thick when using a 0.4 nozzle to ensure the parts are strong. 3-4 walls should be enough with a 0.6 nozzle.
  
  Estimated filament usage: 2.5 to 3.0 kg.
  
  Every part of this case has a part number/code embedded into it, so it's super easy to know what is what. (Exept one panel, for aesthetic reasons)
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Printing instructions (for each individual panel) (Normal or Perforated)

"Normal" = The usual print settings you normally use for most prints. Which includes top, bottom, walls and infill. “Normal” settings should look like this. (picture below)

Perforated: (Infill only) = Normal settings, but TOP and BOTTOM layers are set to ZERO, so all that's printed is the infill pattern and the walls. (See setting recommendations above) 
It should look like this to allow air to pass through the panels. (picture below)

General overview of what part goes where:

Part number 19 - 23 makes up the removeable magnetic side panel. More details are in the step-by-step instructions further down.

• NOTE: Make sure your printer is properly tuned and that it's dimensionally accurate before attempting to build this case for the best results.
  
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Step-by-step building instructions:
 

** The written instructions will deviate slightly from the order things are assembled in the video. The part numbers are intended to be installed in chronological order, meaning panel 1, then 2, then 3, then 4, then 5 etc.
** Every screw in this instruction is M3x10mm, so every time “screw” is written, it means a M3x10mm screw.
** All threaded inserts referred to in this build are M3 threaded inserts with a OD of 4.6mm and a length of 5mm.
 

1. First grab panel 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5. Lay them in front of you on a flat surface with all the numbers facing towards you the correct way.
   
   
    
2. Slide panel 1, 2, 3 and 4 at a 45-degree angle onto panel number 5. They should all “click” into place once they reach the middle. If you need to remove a panel, gently push with your thumb on the x-joint to release the latching piece while carefully pulling the panel out at 45 degrees.
    
3. The side panel requires 8x butterfly joints to be pressed into place, these may or may not require glue to sit tight. There are two variations of the butterfly joints with different tolerances. (See pictures below, marked blue where they should be installed)
   
   
   
   
    
4. You'll notice that the side panel (1-5) has quite a few elevated holes in it. These are “motherboard standoffs” which are printed into the design (red dots in picture below). Depending on what motherboard you'll be using (ITX/mATX/ATX), you should melt in place threaded inserts into the holes required to mount your choice of motherboard. 
   
   
   (Note that some motherboards have a couple of the holes in other locations, so you may experience that you have either too many, or missing a screw hole or two, however, it is fine to skip a screw or two and should not be an issue because most of the holes are standard across most motherboards with ITX, mATX and ATX motherboards)
   
   ** DO NOT TRY TO USE USE REGULAR MOTHERBOARD STANDOFFS. THESE HOLES ARE INTENDED FOR 4.6MM M3 THREADED INSERTS ONLY.
   
   
    
5. Melt into place four M3 threaded inserts (OD 4.6mm, length 5mm), two into panel 1 and two into panel 3. You only need to add a M3 insert to hole number 4 if you are using rear panel number 7.3. (See picture below. NOTE: The picture is rotated 90 degrees to the left. The four yellow dots are placed on the left vertical side when looking straight at the panel.)
   
   
    
6. Grab panel number 6.1 or 6.2, and panel 7.1, 7.2 or 7.3 (Depending on your preferred layout) At the bottom of panel 6.1 and/or 6.2 there are two holes. Insert two more threaded inserts into those holes. (Yellow holes)
   
   
    
7. Lay your choice of panel 6 and 7 on a flat surface in front of you with the numbers the correct way, and add another two threaded inserts to the two holes on the left side, one on each panel. These are to there to secure part number 8 later.
   
    
8. Take panel 6 and 7 and mount them to the side panel threaded inserts you just added by using three (four if using panel 7.3) screws.
   
   
    
9. Use two more screws to secure panel 7 to panel 6 from below. (Picture above)
    
10. Attach the magnet bracket with the number 8 on it, to the two threaded inserts on the opposite side of the side panel. Make sure the magnet holes are facing outwards from the other part. 
    
    
     
11. While the soldering iron is still hot, it's a good idea to add the remaining threaded inserts. Grab panel number 9, 10, 12, 13, 15 and 17. Use the picture below as a reference when adding the threaded inserts. All the panels have the part number embedded into it. Add threaded inserts where the holes are marked yellow.
    
    
     
12. Panel number 9, 12 and 17 each have two additional holes on one end. Add threaded inserts there as well. (Yellow arrows on the picture above)
     
13. Once all threaded inserts are added, proceed to installing panel 9. This panel secures in place using a total of four screws. Two on the inside that attach to the side panel, and two screws attached from the outside of the case through the two bottom holes in panel 7, into the two threaded inserts we just added to the end of panel 9. 
    
    
     
14. Next, add panel 10, which attaches with two screws to the side panel.
     
    
     
15. Between panel 9 and 10, attach magnet bracket number 11 with two screws. (Picture above)
     
16. Now, grab panel 12 and secure it with two screws to the side panel, as well as two more screws from the outside through the two holes on the edge of panel 10 into the two threaded inserts on the edge of panel 12
    
    
     
17. Then, attach panel 13 to the side panel by using two screws. (Picture below)
    
    
     
18. Add magnet bracket number 14 in between panel 12 and 13 by using three screws. (Picture above)
     
19. Proceed to add panel 15 by using two screws to secure it to the side panel.
    
    
     
20. Now add magnet bracket number 16 by using two screws in the corner where panel 13 and 15 joins. One screw on each of the panels 13 and 15. (Picture above)
     
21. Panel 17 can be attached the same way as panel 9, with two screws to the side panel, and two screws from the outside of the case through the two holes on the edge of panel 6.
    
    
     
22. Complete the main chassis by adding magnet bracket number 18 between panel 15 and 17 by using three screws (Picture above). 
    
    Bracket 18 has are two variations, one “normal” bracket just for the magnets, and a second version which also has a support bracket built in which should only be used if you chose the option of mounting the SFX PSU above the GPU. The picture below shows the optional number 18 magnet bracket, which is intended to give some support to the SFX PSU, this option will also free up all the PCIe slots.
    
    
     
23. When the main chassis is complete. Assemble the opposite side panel by grabbing panel 19, 20, 21, 22 and 23 with all numbers the correct way, then slide them together at a 45-degree angle just like you did on panel 1-5. Push the four panels until they click into place in the middle. Then proceed to add the butterfly joints and add glue if necessary just like in step number 3.
    
    
     
24. Time to install the 8x3mm neodymium magnets to hold in place the magnetic side cover. We need a total of 12 magnets on the main chassis, and another 12 magnets on the removeable side cover.
    
    Magnet placement for the removeable side panel (red dots):
    
    
    When working with magnets that have to stick to each other, polarity is very important. One trick to ensure the correct polarity is to stack the magnets on top of eachother so they're all facing the same way, then apply one magnet at a time into all 12 holes on one side. This way all 12 magnets will have the exact same polarity. Then you can flip the magnet stack around and find the side of the magnet that rejects the side that's already installed. Since we want the magnets to stick to each other, we know that the side of the magnet that rejects the opposite magnet, is the side that should be facing away from it, and that side of the magnet should be pushed into the opposing part. Add one magnet at a time and check the polarity each time and you should be good.
    
    The benefit of having removeable magnet mounts is that if you do mess up the polarity on any mount, it's very quick and easy to just reprint the part you need and try again.
    
    Magnet placement for the main chassis (red dots):
    
     
25. When the magnets are all in place and you have confirmed that the panel fits nicely, we can move on to installing the PC components like motherboard, coolers, fans and other parts needed for your build. If you are using any PCIe devices like graphics cards, audio cards or other cards, you'll need to secure them to the rear panel. Here you can either melt in place threaded inserts into the mounting holes, or simply use a screw and a nut, because the threaded insert holes can be a bit difficult to reach with the soldering iron.
    
    
     
26. Remember to also add the 12mm power button at the top of the case. Keep in mind that the panel is about 10mm thick at the point where the power button is installed, so make sure to get a power button with long enough threads. (Picture above)
     
27. When all PC components are installed, flip the case over on it's side, so the motherboard is facing up.
     
    
     
28. We can now move on to installing the external covers of the case which will also hide all the screws used to install components. At the top of the case we can from the rear first slide in the part marked TF (Top forward), followed by the panel marked TR (Top rear). The TR panel will latch into place once it's pushed all the way in.
    
    
    
    To release the panel, lift/bend up the middle of the TR panel a couple millimeters to release the latch, then pull it out.
     
29. Next we can grab panel FL (Front Lower). This is the panel that holds the logo. The logo emblem should be printed in a different color from the rest of the build to be visible. The emblem pushes into the panel and may or may not require glue to stay in place, followed by the center piece that pushes into the center of the logo emblem.
    
    
     
30. We can now slide into place the front covers. First we can slide in the FU (Front upper) panel, this is the only part that is not marked with a “part number”, mainly because it's so thin that it's likely to be visible through the front mesh when printed in other colors than black. (Picture below)
    
    
    
    Following the FU panel comes the FL (Front lower) panel. The FL panel with the logo installed slides into the front panel and latches in place so it doesn't accidentally slide back out. Just like the top rear panel this one also needs to be bent slightly out in the middle to release the latch before pulling it out if you want to remove it. (Picture above)
     
31. We can now add the feet of the case. For this we need the two panels called BR (Bottom rear) and BF (Bottom Front). Slide in panel BR first, then add panel BF afterwards which will also latch into place and can be removed easily by simply bending it slightly out to release the latch before pulling it out of the track just like in the top and front.
    
    
     
32. Finally, add the magnetic side panel.
    
    
    
    And as easy as that, your new case is complete!
    
    
    
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UPDATE LOG:

10JUN24: Added additional drive cage for 2.5" HDDs and SSDs. You can now add up to six 2.5" drives to your system, or up to three without sacrificing any GPU length! The drive latches into place just like the 3.5" drive bay. (Requires four threaded inserts)

14JUN24: “5_cross_joint_side_panel_BUGFIX_14JUN24” has been added to replace the original part due to a bug in the exported STL resulting in a small part being printed in mid air.

21JUN24: "8_11_14_16_18_magnet_bracket_full_set_updated" has been updated due to two of the brackets on the original file were not touching the build plate causing printing issues. If you downloaded the files before June 21st, 2024, please download this model again to get the corrected file.