Orbiter 2.0 Direct Drive Mount for Anycubic Kobra Max/Kobra Plus/Vyper

After searching the web for a direct drive mount for the Anycubic Vyper (and any other printer with a V5 hotend) using the Orbiter Extruder, I couldn't find anything proper. Except a clever design by BedsideRanch - however his design was made for the older V1.5 of the Orbiter.

So I decided to challenge my CAD skills, and ended up with this ugly remix. But at least it works ;D

If you are in a rush, I included a ready made G-code file for a klipperized stock Vyper using both PLA and PETG.

However you will probably get the best results slicing yourself :)

I did so using 4 perimeters and 35% infill - Better safe than sorry with these kinds of things.

DISCLAIMER: MODEL NOT TESTED!

Original Model Description:

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This printable part allows for you to bolt an Orbiter 1.5 direct drive to your Anycubic Kobra Max/Kobra Plus/Vyper. I have already tested and gone through several versions of this part to make sure that this is the lowest and easiest way to mount a direct drive to the Kobra Max. I have not been able to test it on the Kobra Plus or the Vyper, but they share the same strain gauge and hotend, so I'm assuming it will work the same.

This modification just about solved all my zits and blobs I was experiencing on my prints, so I hope this part can solve that problem for you as well.

WARNING

This part does require trimming of your original hot end housing to make room for the mount and direct drive unit. Unfortunately there is no other stable solution I was able to come up with that didn't require modification or complete removal of the hot end housing.

NOTICE

This requires some M3 hardware to be used. There's no way around it.

There are two files attached. One is to utilize two M3 inserts, and the other is to use two M3 captive nuts. I recommend using two M3 x 10mm screws for the M3 insert design, and using two M3 x 12mm screws for the captive nut design. Both designs use two additional M3 x 10mm screws to fasten the part to the top of the hotend/strain gauge.

This mount works with stock and aftermarket parts on your original Kobra Max/Kobra Plus/Vyper hotends, and requires a PTFE tube down the center of the part to maintain a sealed system and minimal drag. I can't provide an exact PTFE length as it's dependent on which heat break you are utilizing in your hot end. I can tell you it's no longer than 100mm.

PRINT

I recommend for printing that you orient the part with the orbiter mount side (larger side) touching the bed with tree (Cura) or organic (Prusa) supports.

ASSEMBLY

Unload any filament you have in your printer.

You'll need to remove the housing on your hot end and strip the extruder. I have a video you can mostly follow from Anycubic. They remove and replace the entire hot end, but we're going a bit further and deviate from just a standard replacement.

Remove the four screws around the corners of the X axis gantry plate that hold the housing on. You can leave the wires plugged in as long as there is slack in the wires and you let the housing rest on the bed or an improvised stand.

Remove the PTFE fitting lock/Cut the Ziptie, and push down on the top of the fitting to release and pull out the bowden PTFE tube from the top of the hotend.

Remove the fitting from the top of the hot end with a wrench.

Remove the screws from the top of the hot end that mount it to the strain gauge. The hot end will want to fall free now.

Start cleaning/deburring edges and holes to make sure everything is smooth for installation.

Add your threaded inserts to the part on the larger side to the holes more outwards of the part.

-or-

Add your M3 captive nuts by pushing them in by hand to the backside of the part where the orbiter mounts.

Insert your new PTFE tube down the hot end until it bottoms out on the top of the heat break.

Slide the printed part over the PTFE tube, and press onto the top of the hot end sandwiching the the strain gauge between the hot end and the new mount.

Rotate the mount where the holes line up for mounting, and the side with the step is facing away from the gantry plate. (It shouldn't allow it to work any other way due to fitment issues)

Use two M3 x 10mm screws to fasten the mount through the strain gauge into the top of the hot end.

Mock fit your Orbiter 1.5 onto the PTFE tube, and trim the PTFE tube until you're able to mount the Orbiter flush to the printed part.

Use two M3 x 10mm screws to fasten the Orbiter to your threaded inserts.

-or-

Use two M3 x 12mm screws to fasten the Orbiter to your captive nuts.

Hold your housing back up to the hot end, and trim with flush cuts or any other tool to make room for the new direct drive unit. Fasten it when it no longer touches and has at least 2mm of a gap all around. (A large gap is necessary so that it does not collide or interfere with the function of the strain gauge)

By now you can remove your old Bowden extruder from the printer, and plug in your orbiter into the the printer where the original motor was connected to.

Finish up by using zipties to clean up wires and keep them out of harms way.

CALIBRATION

I can't help anyone still using Marlin here as I switched to Klipper as part of my upgrade overhaul.

My Klipper config looks like this for the Orbiter 1.5

rotation_distance: 4.68337
microsteps: 16
full_steps_per_rotation: 200

If you are using Marlin your next steps will be to calibrate your Esteps, and make any firmware changes to correct the microsteps and full rotation steps if they differ.

Aesthetically worse, however functional remix fitted for the Orbiter V2.0 extruder.