This is my design for a case for holding Gridfinity bins. My design goals included:
While I appreciate the most excellent rugged boxes by Yanev and Whity (I've printed a few!) I wanted something that was tailored to gridfinity, and that leaned into what we can do with 3D printing without injection molding design language.
print the calibration part first. It will save you a lot of effort later!
The case was designed for 0.2mm layers and 0.4mm nozzle. A 0.6mm nozzle may work, but with Input Shaper the time savings are minimal. Layer heights other than 0.2mm may cause problems with fit as the design assumes 0.2mm. 0.1mm might work, but I don't have the patience to try it.
Updated name to “Modern Gridfinity Case” per feedback that it wasn't exactly minimalist.
I have included projects for 3 sizes, for the Prusa MINI+ the Prusa MK4 and the Prusa XL with and without a window. If you would like a different size or options you can export your own from onshape. An onshape account is required. You can get a free onshape account by signing up here.
Start by printing the calibration part using the same printer, material and settings that you intend to use for the case. Using the same filament test to see which horizontal and vertical holes the filament passes through. You want to pick the size that's the smallest that it can easily pass. If you aren't sure, go up a size.
If +0.3 for vertical and +0.1 for horizontal work on your calibration part then you can print the project files included here. Otherwise I strongly recommend you export custom models.
All parts use the following settings:
Latch: use 3 perimeters
Label with window: Add a pause for window insertion.
Cover:
If you are printing with a window:
If you are not printing with a window, I recommend supporting the "window" openings. You also have the option to print a solid “window” part to insert, which means no supports and a very smooth surface!
Case: The rotation of the case compared to the cover is intentional. This ensures that any small skew in your printer doesn't cause a warp in the case.
Bed adhesion is of critical importance in these parts. If the case top or bottom lifts during printing then you will have gaps at the parting line or bins won't fit in the corner spots. For this reason I have provided custom brims, I recommend using them. Even with them you may have a small amount of lift in the corners, and this is usually ok.
If you are printing PLA I recommend a smooth bed over satin, it has better adhesion. For PETG I recommend a satin bed over a textured bed.
The window dimensions are included in the file name. For instance for the MK3/MK4 sized cover the window dimensions are 208mm x 166mm. There is a +/- 0.5mm tolerance on these dimensions so you can get away cutting the sheet by hand with a hobby knife, or even using scissors.
If you are printing with the window, you will need to insert it when the printer pauses. Because of the heat of the bed the thin sheet will want to warp upwards in the corners as the bottom of the sheet expands. There are small hold downs in the corners that you must slip the corners of the sheet under.
To ease the insertion of the sheet, lay a ruler front to back across the part. Place the sheet over the ruler and insert the sheet under the tie downs on one side. Then while holding the other side of the sheet, twist the ruler to bow the sheet up in the middle. Then tuck the sheet under the remaining tie downs and flatten the ruler again.
Before assembling, make sure that you can push filament through the holes in the hinge and latch parts. Occasionally these will be tight due to a stray bit of polymer in the passage. It's really important that the filament pass through the links easily.
Refer to the image below to see how the links fit into the case. Note that the groove in the long link faces outwards and is closer to the cover.
Place a short link in one of the openings at the end and start pushing filament through. Continue til the filament exists the other side. This is the hardest part! If you encounter too much friction try pushing the filament through without the links first to see if there's a tight spot.
You may need to guide the filament into the next hole as it crosses a gap. Once you reach the end, cut off the filament and let it drop into the hole.
Repeat with the long links. Remember that the groove in the long Link faces outwards.
If you have trouble inserting the filament hinge pins:
Now place the cover onto the case in the open position. Align the hinge links and insert the two filaments the same as before.
Repeat this process with the latch(es)
Insert the label holder and you are done!
You can view, export or copy the original design here: https://cad.onshape.com/documents/d20cadaa1c3b0edd42f01e06
These files are licensed under the MIT license just like the core gridfinity designs. Printables currently doesn't have an option for this license.
The author marked this model as their own original creation.