CREALITY K1+K1C LID RISER V2 [50mm height]

*If you have any issues with printing or assembly, feel free to message me, and I'll do my best to assist you 😉.

/////UPDATE 0.8 | 18-07-24

New Corners with flange.

Two new corner pieces. 

This new version of the corners has a flange that closes the gap between the LED corner and the riser corner.

/////1st Version: [ [a]_x4_LED_STRIP_CORNER_V2_FLANGE] 

To be used with the V2 corner (original LED system version, with the LEDs at a 90° angle to the printer bed).

/////2nd Version [ [a]_x4_LED_STRIP_CORNER_V2-1_FLANGE] 

To be used with the V2-1 corner (updated LED system version, with the LEDs at a 45° angle to the printer bed).

/////UPDATE 0.7 | 05-07-24

New Corners for 10mm BOLTS. 

In this new version, the bolts for attaching to the frame have been changed from 20mm to 10mm.

NEW FILES:

[a]_x4_CORNER_V2 (x3 with LED SYSTEM)

[a]_x1_CORNER_V2_LED_WIRES (for LED SYSTEM)

/////UPDATE 0.6 | 26-06-24 

New Corner with Opening for Securing LED Wire:

This corner piece is specifically designed for the front right corner, eliminating the need to glue the LED wire. Thanks to Tom G for suggesting a solution that securely holds the wire in place. The 1.8mm opening accommodates various wire thicknesses without requiring glue or additional fasteners.

*Photo courtesy of Tom G. Thank you for allowing me to use your photo.

///FILE NAME: LID_RISER_K1C_CORNER_V2_LED_WIRE.STL 

/////UPDATE 0.5 | 23-06-24

*New Front Chain Riser (12mm) - LINK

/////UPDATE 0.4 | 14-06-24

*New version of the LED mount

The LED angle has been adjusted from 90° to 45° and extended the overhang above the LEDs. This change improves the illumination of the print area and prevents the light from shining directly into your eyes when looking at the printer. The corners transition smoothly from 45° to 90° to allow for a continuous loop. 

NEW FILES:

• [a]_x4_LED_STRIP_CORNER_V2-1
• [a]_x4_LED_STRIP_V2-1

Thanks to PurpleR0b0t for the suggestion.

/////UPDATE 0.3

////ATTENTION

Make sure the bolts aren't too long. They shouldn't go past the frame's thickness to avoid damaging any internal components.

/////IMPORTANT

• Before starting the print of the riser, I recommend printing this tool https://www.printables.com/model/899470-xyz-accuracy-test-calibration-tool to test the dimensional accuracy of your printers.
• Use this tool https://www.printables.com/model/480907-shrinkage-calculator-dimensional-calibration-tool to determine the correct scale based on the filament shrinkage you’ll be using.
• The riser pieces were developed with very tight tolerances (0.2mm) to ensure proper alignment and functionality of the assembly, so it’s important to make sure everything is well-calibrated or that you understand what is needed for everything to work correctly.
• It is advisable to leave a 0.5mm gap in the test pieces to ensure the riser will fit the printer frame. It is also recommended to print all sides for a final test. It’s better to use a little filament on testing than to spend much more reprinting the parts.
• When screwing in the second corner, it's preferable to pull the piece a bit to screw it in without the pieces coming apart (0,5mm). This allows for some flexibility to compensate for any alignment issues.

/////UPDATE 0.1

The opening in the side wall for the PTFE tube was too high. I adjusted the sensor's position but didn't change the height of the opening. The new version has been corrected. Additionally, I created a version of the back wall “LID_RISER_K1C_WALL_V2_BACK_2_SENSOR_LED_HINGE” without the cable opening.

///// The PDF containing all the information is located in the downloads section. 

*The information in the PDF should be used as a guide only. While it worked for me, it may not necessarily work for you. Numerous factors can influence the final result, including the material used, printer calibration, ambient temperature and humidity…. and more.

///// This updated version brings several improvements over the V1 model:

What’s New:

1. Better Ventilation: More and bigger ventilation openings.

2. Filament Sensor: The sensor is now inside.

3. Full-Length Bump: The bump now covers the whole side. In the previous version, the chain started marking the area without the bump, making noise when printing on the left side near the door.

4. LED Lighting: I installed an LED strip all around, so now there’s light inside the printer. The LED support is designed so the light doesn’t hit your eyes when you look down at the print.

5. Hinges: I added hinges for easier access to the interior. At first, I didn't think they were necessary, but now I see the benefits.

Big thanks to everyone who shared suggestions and feedback. You helped make this version better.

*All parts have been tested and adjusted to ensure compatibility with both K1 and K1C models. The parts shown in the photographs were printed using ABS material (Polymaker). Detailed information about the parts and the settings used can be found in the accompanying PDF.