V-Spooler X

News: V-Spooler X 1.0 now available!

If you have printed or purchased beta 1 you will find the instructions for this version in the files area in the “Other Files” section at the bottom.

Our manufacturing partner Veetec3D provides hardware kits, printed parts and fully assembled V-Spooler X models at their Etsy store, for which Fyrby Additive receives a percentage. You can find the store here.

V-Spooler X is available free on Makerworld but it would be great if you can support me by buying it here. A cheaper alternative is to join my club for at least a month, which gives you access to this and other models for the duration of membership.

To help you with your build you can now also preview V-Spooler X in a web browser on your computer, or using AR on a phone or AR/VR headsets such as the vision pro here.

Please note we provide upgrade files separately in the files area so you can upgrade incrementally from any version.

V-Spooler X 1.0 Changes From Beta 1:

• Everything has been generally strengthened and so V-Spooler X now uses a lot of filament, as people want to put 5kg spools on top of it. You may want to turn down walls/infill if it is too much.
• Revised cam and gearing to allow more stable higher speed operation of V-Spooler X
• New quick change adaptors allowing quick easy changes between drill/handle.
• Updated stronger handle design.
• New tensioner via addition of a clamp on the tube guide. The hole in the guide for the tube is now also larger for easier insertion and removal.
• Slightly less play around the drive shaft (no play is not desirable).
• Bearings around the drive shaft are rotated to ensure less load on the bearings at rest.
• The right core frame part has holes to fit the future motor modification.
• The tube guide mounting screws are on the opposite side making fitting/removal easier.
• Two of the inner spool clamp parts have had internal overhangs removed.
• The new drill option is now included by default
• Widen frame so upper rollers are 26mm wider to fit more 5kg spools
• Strengthen the pegs in the upper arches with M3 screw/washer/lock nuts
• Enlarge the width of the upper rollers to make them stronger
• Most load bearing parts have more infill/walls

The barrel cam and follower on the original V-Spooler X worked, however was sensitive to small differences in build configurations (printer/plastics/etc) and will never work well or for long at high speed. It also wobbles a bit.

The new assembly balances the cam with bearings above so the follower is more well aligned and overall has much less friction, helped by the addition of a spring under the follower. The assembly is also more stable and less prone to wobble and can be operated much faster.

Introduction

V-Spooler X is a re-spooler optimised for re-spooling to Bambu and Extrudr spools (will work with other same diameter spools) and is designed to occupy the smallest footprint in a vertical arrangement, hence the V in V-Spooler X. It is based on the original V-Spooler, but aims to support larger heavier spools.

I designed the gears in FreeCAD, the cam in Plasticity and did the rest of the project in Shapr3D. The model above was printed using Prusament PC-CF and Spectrum PETG-PTFE composites.

One of the biggest requests I get is for a video of V-Spooler X working, so here is a short video (currently features the old design of original V-Spooler, will be updated soon). If you would like to see how to load V-Spooler X please scroll to the bottom to find the tutorial videos there.

Which V-Spooler Should I Print?

Which File Do I Print?

You Want To Print A New V-Spooler X

V-Spooler X 1.0 - Bambu.3MF is the main file for this model which is updated every release to include all changes, so you do not have to upgrade when printing a new V-Spooler X.

You Want To Print A V-Spooler X Option

Look at the options section below and pick one, then go to the files area and choose either the Bambu or Generic 3MFs depending on your preference and print the matching file.

You Want To Upgrade V-Spooler X

V-Spooler X Beta 1 to 1.0 Upgrade - Bambu.3MF is the incremental upgrade file for Beta 1.

Required Components

The components lists below need checking, it is worth having a few spare of each item as I am prone to making mistakes despite trying to check this!

The helical compression spring can be easily sourced at Bambu Lab at the following links US/EU/UK/AU/CA/Global.

Please note that inserts require that you have access to a soldering iron and that those supplied by Bambu Lab are a slightly different size and less suitable. Ruthex or CNC Kitchen are good choices.

Optional Build Items

Loctite Blue

At least one of the screws as detailed in the instructions benefits from Loctite Threadlocker Blue. Do not use the red Loctite, it is too strong for plastic parts with inserts.

When you use Loctite Blue put a very small amount of it on the end before screwing it in. This is important for future removal. Please do not use this all over the model for ease of maintenance.

PTFE Lubricant

Plastic parts susceptible to friction benefit from lubrication. If you have a PTFE lubricant or other lubricant that is compatible with your choice of plastic, when final assembly has been completed a light greasing of the lead screw will help operation.

Optional Model Parts

The options are provided in separate 3MF downloads.

Desk Mounting - There are now optional desk mounts, the holes for screws in the desk mounts are 6mm in diameter. You can remove objects called “brace front lower” and “brace rear lower” from the main print job if you want to use these.

New Bambu & Extrudr Clamp & Spindle - Included by default from Beta 8. Fits all Bambu spools and Extrudr 1kg and 1.1kg spools.

Original Bambu Clamp & Spindle - Fits most Bambu spools with the exception of a lot of newer ones. This is a better option for spools it fits, as there will be less play in the assembly.

Generic Clamp & Spindle - A narrow clamp and spindle which aims to fit more third party spools.

Upgrading From Beta 1

As this page is getting rather complicated, depending on your familiarity with V-Spooler X if you are performing an upgrade the best approach may be to disassemble your existing V-Spooler X and follow the instructions below using the upgraded parts in combination with parts carried over from Beta 1.

Assembly

Spool Clamp

Install two M3 inserts into the end of the spool clamp.
Screw on the retainer, note that it is a reverse thread. This is so it is less likely to undo due to the rotation.
Install the handle on the end with two M3x20 screws and washers.

Filament Guide

Install two M3 inserts into the holes in this part of the filament guide.
Now connect the two parts together with two M3x8 screws and washers.
Take the top part of the carrier. Install two inserts in the holes in each side. This part is sensitive to warping, so please be careful with these lower inserts.
Also install two inserts on the top side.
Place a washer over each of the holes on one side. This is to stop the outer part of the bearing rubbing on the plastic.
Place a 693zz bearing over each hole and secure with an M3x8mm screw, but with no washer. Now repeat this for the other side.

Gears

Install an M3 insert into the end of the cam as pictured.
Install the axel extension on the end with an M3x14 screw and washer. Note that this uses one of the smaller axel extension parts.
Take the gear that looks like this.
Install an M3 insert in the hole on this side as pictured.
Install the axel extension on the end with an M3x14 screw and washer. Note that this uses one of the smaller axel extension parts.
Take the final large gear and install an M3 insert in the middle.
Install the axel extension on the end with an M3x14 screw and washer. This uses the larger axel extension part.
Install an M3 insert into the end of the drive axel.
Install an M3 insert into the side of the drive axel. Make extra sure this one is installed flush with the surface.
If using the handle option install an insert into the end of the part pictured.
Put the handle into the hole of the arm as pictured and the retainer on the opposite side. Secure it with an M3x8 screw and washer.

Central Frame

Find the front middle leg. Note that it has no text on it, to help you locate it. Install 4x M3 inserts into the holes in the top of the part as pictured.
Find the rear middle leg. Note that it has no text on it, to help you locate it. Install 2x M3 inserts into the holes in the top of the part as pictured.
Find this part and install inserts into only two of the three posts.
Find the central part of the central section of the frame. Install 4x M3 inserts on the holes on the side as pictured. Do the same on the opposite side.
Install 3x 608 bearings in this area of the same part.
Fit the bearing retainer over the bearings, making sure the posts with the inserts in are inserted into the holes with matching holes in the back.
Support the bearing retainer from the side it is installed in, and secure it with two M3x8 screws and washers in these holes on the opposite side.
Stand up the central part of the frame, the front leg and the bottom bracket as pictured. Use two M3x20 and washers to connect the bracket, leg and frame using the bottom two screw holes. Use two M3x14 screws and washers to connect the leg to the frame half way up.
Do the same for the rear leg and bracket.
Place the central arch on top of the legs. It is smaller than the other two arches. Connect the arch with two M3x20 screws and washers on each side, but not all the way in as these will be removed later.
Push-fit bearings in these two holes while supporting the frame from the rear.

Next Steps

Take the front left leg of the frame as pictured. There are four holes in the top as indicated. Install four M3 inserts in these holes. Finally, push-fit a bearing into the larger hole indicated.
Take the lower part of the left frame and install two M3 inserts in either end.
Find the two lower rollers. They are the shorter ones. Install a bearing in both ends of each roller.
Place these parts with the existing assembly as pictured. Connect the two screw holes to the frame and the bracket using two M3x20 screws and washers.
Find this part and install an insert in the hole in the direction indicated, then do the same for the opposite side.
Secure the part with an M3x25 screw and washers using the hole indicated. Also do the same for the opposite side.

Gears & Cam

Insert the carrier into the support beneath it gently. It should just rest on top and not be pushed in hard.
Place the spring in the hole in the bottom of the carrier and then the tooth on top of the spring. You may need to keep the tooth in place with your fingers.
Insert the cam through and into the bearing in the left leg. Ensure the tooth is in the groove in the barrel cam and oriented correctly.
Install this part over the cam with 4x M3x8mm screws and washers. You will need to slide it under the tabs on the top of the carrier.
Install the top section of the carrier you prepared earlier with an M3x8mm screw and washer on each side. As the part is being pushed down by the spring pushing up, you will need to pull it up so the holes align. Slowly spin the gear on the end to check the assembly moves freely across the cam. Apply lubrication if you have it.
It is suggested to pull these the cam parts out as pictured and let them hang there carefully, to allow fitment of the other gears later.
The next thing to do is to attempt to install all the gears together. This takes a bit of patience and careful wiggling. Please be gentle, it took you ages to print this!
Push the gears all the way in once you have wiggled them into alignment.

Gearbox Cover

Lay down the gearbox cover flat and install 6x M3 inserts in all the holes. Be careful not to de-form the three ones with the thin outer edge. Putting bearings on them before can help by acting as a heat sink.
Install 3x 608 bearings in these three points if you did not already.
Install the bearing retainer over the bearings. Attach with 3x M3x8 screws and washers.
Install 2 bearings in the other slots in the gearbox cover.
Install the gearbox cover using 3 M3x14 screws.
Attach the handle (or drill attachment) to the axel with an M3x8 screw and washer.
Find this part.  To ensure that spools run true, please ensure that support materiel has been cleanly removed from the underside and that the cross shaped indentation is flat.
The cross in the back should be aligned with the cross on the drive shaft. This screw for this part is known to slowly come loose and should be periodically checked, or a tiny amount of Loctite Blue on the end of the screw should secure it. Do not use Loctite Red. Screw in an M3x14 screw and washer while holding the handle/drill attachment from the other side and check to make sure it is fixed and runs true.

Right Frame

Find the two legs for the right hand side of the frame. Note the orientation of the text so you install the correct rear leg. Install two inserts in the top of each leg. Finally, install a bearing in the hole in the top of the front leg.
Find the lower part of the right frame and install two inserts in either end.
It is a good idea to install two inserts in the central part of the lower right frame also in case you choose to install the motor mod (coming soon) or vanity plate.
Align the right frame legs and lower part as pictured. Use two M3x20 screws and washers on each side to secure each leg to the bracket.
Install two M3 inserts on the two posts on the top right frame part.
Flip the part over and insert two M3 nylon lock nuts into the areas indicated. Supporting the nuts install two M3x18 screws and washers from the opposite side. You may need to secure the nuts with some pliers to properly install the screws. These parts are to hopefully ensure these upper parts can manage heavier spools without breaking.
Place the arch on top and connect using two M3x14 screws and washers. Please also note the orientation of the arrow, it is pointing to the right as pictured. If not, please use the other arch.
Secure the right arch to the middle arch using two M3x25 screws and washers in the holes pictured.

Final Steps

Take the rear left leg of the frame as pictured. Install two inserts into the top.
Place the remaining leg as pictured and connect with two M3x20 screws and washers.
Find the dust protection plate and install four inserts in the holes in each end.
We will connect the dust plate in the next step. Please be careful following this not to press on the other end, as it will be easy to break this with leverage. Now connect one end with four M3x14 screws and washers.
Find the two upper rollers. Install two bearings in each.
Place the rollers onto the posts on one side. They will stay in place if you are careful.
Insert two M3 nylon lock nuts into the areas indicated in the remaining frame part. Supporting the nuts install two M3x18 screws and washers from the opposite side. You may need to secure the nuts with some pliers to properly install the screws.
Slide on the final arch, ensuring the posts match up with the bearings in the rollers. Secure the arch to the dust protection plate using four M3x14 screws and washers.
Finally, find the upper support brackets. There is one for each side. Note that one end has a slight indentation where it meets the arch. You will need to remove the screws in the middle section you attached earlier. Secure one on each side using four M3x20 screws for each.
Insert a length of PTFE tube into the tube guide. It is best to leave it a little long so you can cut it to your liking later.
Insert the two lock nuts into the holes indicated in the tube guide. You may need to support them with a finger to stop them falling out.
Secure the clamp with two M3x16 screws and washers. Tighten it so it grips the PTFE tube, but not completely closed. When you have filament in V-Spooler, and if you are using this clamp as a tensioner, it is best to adjust it with filament in the tube. Note that the tube wears quickly if using the clamp as a tensioner, and you will need to make a minor adjustment frequently, possibly on each spool.
Finally insert the clamp assembly all the way into the spindle and rotate it gently anti-clockwise to lock it in place.

Congratulations! It was a long build but you should now have a working V-Spooler X!