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V-Spooler, for larger spools.
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updated September 29, 2024

Description

News

Beta 1 is available! Woohoo!

V-Spooler is available on Makerworld, however it would be great if you can support me by buying it here. An alternative that is cheaper is to join my club for at least a month, which also gives you access to this and some other models for the duration of membership.

As V-Spooler X shares the same platform as V-Spooler, there are a couple of updates that have been made their way to this new model that will follow to the other models where appropriate:

  • The handle has been strengthened by making the arm and the axle one single piece at the expense of the assembly being a little more fiddly.
  • The filament guide and the carrier over the cam have been merged into one single piece.

V-Spooler X contains the same functional components as V-Spooler, but has been tested at length before this initial release.

If you are looking for a hardware kit for V-Spooler X my manufacturing partner has these available with global shipping for which I get a fee. They will soon also be able to provide fully assembled V-Spooler X. You can find the listing by Veetec3D here.

Introduction

V-Spooler X is a filament re-spooler based on V-Spooler. This variant was created to satisfy your requests for an official V-Spooler with a larger space for bigger spools at the top.  

It is optimised for re-spooling to Bambu, Extrudr and other spools. It is designed to occupy the smallest possible footprint in a vertical arrangement, hence the V in V-Spooler X. The X relates to its side - it is larger, and who knows if there will be an XL - I don't as there are no plans currently for a larger one!

It can fit pretty much all 3kg, some in the 4-4.5kg range and a few 5kg spools. Fyrby Additive has tested this with 2.5kg spools as we do not have any larger ones currently available. 

Please note that we provide upgrade files separately in the profiles area so you can upgrade incrementally from any version.

Which V-Spooler Should I Print?

V-Spooler MiniV-SpoolerV-Spooler X
  • You have a small (e.g. A1 mini) or normal sized printer and/or…
  • You want to re-spool from an external spool holder
  • Uses approx. 535g filament
  • Normal sized printer (e.g. P1P)
  • You want to re-spool only 1kg spools
  • Uses approx. 770g filament
  • Normal sized printer (e.g. P1P)
  • You want to also re-spool larger than 1kg spools in a compact space
  • Takes up a bit more desk space than V-Spooler, but not much
  • Uses approx. 936g filament

Which File Do I Print?

You Want To Print A New V-Spooler X

V-Spooler X Beta 1 is the main file for this model. The main file is updated with every release to include the changes, so you do not have to incrementally upgrade when printing a new V-Spooler X from scratch.

You Want To Print A V-Spooler X Option

Look at the options section below and pick one, then go to the files area and choose either the Bambu or Generic 3MFs depending on your preference and print the matching file.

You Want To Upgrade V-Spooler X

Lets say you are on Beta 3 and you want to upgrade to Beta 5. As maintaining upgrade files is getting messy, we only provide incremental upgrades between each release.

So to move from Beta 3 to Beta 5, you need to do the “Beta 3 to Beta 4” upgrade, then the “Beta 4 to Beta 5” upgrade.

Required Components

  • M3 ruthex (or same sized M3x5.7) inserts - 56
  • 608 bearings - 20
  • M3x8 screws - 5
  • M3x14 screws - 25
  • M3x20 screws - 22
  • M3x25 screws - 4
  • M3 washers - 56
  • PTFE tube with 4mm outside diameter

Please note that Ruthex/other inserts require that you have access to a soldering iron.

Optional Items

Loctite Blue

At least one of the screws as detailed in the instructions benefits from Loctite Threadlocker Blue. Do not use the red Loctite, it is too strong for plastic parts with inserts.

When you use Loctite Blue put a very small amount of it on the end before screwing it in. This is important for future removal. Please do not use this all over the model for ease of maintenance.

PTFE Lubricant

Plastic parts susceptible to friction benefit from lubrication. If you have a PTFE lubricant or other lubricant that is compatible with your choice of plastic, when final assembly has been completed a light greasing of the lead screw will help operation.

Options

The options are provided in separate 3MF downloads.

Desk Mounting - Optional desk mounts, the holes for screws in the desk mounts are 6mm in diameter. You can remove objects called “brace front lower” and “brace rear lower” from the main print job if you want to use these.

Drill Attachment - You can remove object called “gear 8” from the main print job if you want to use the optional drill/screwdriver attachment.

New Bambu & Extrudr Clamp & Spindle - Included by default. Fits all Bambu spools and Extrudr 1kg and 1.1kg spools.

Original Bambu Clamp & Spindle - Fits most Bambu spools with the exception of a lot of newer ones. This is a better option for spools it fits, as there will be less play in the assembly.

Generic Clamp & Spindle - A narrow clamp and spindle which aims to fit more third party spools.

Printing

If you are using the Bambu 3MF please print that and skip down to the “Assembly” section.

Strength

Use 3 or more walls to the threaded parts, the gears and the spool parts, as well as gyroid infill. I have broken one arm to the handle and this will benefit from 20% gyroid infill.

The lower rollers are a high wear part if your lower spool is not running true. If you have a more friction resilient plastic available this part especially will benefit from it.

Quality

Randomise the z-seam on the rollers, main drive axel and spindle, this helps prevent noise and vibration.

Layer height

I printed the cam and tooth using a 0.16mm layer height as it is important that this operates smoothly. Although I printed the threaded parts of the spool clamp with 0.2mm layer height this will be a lot nicer with a smaller layer height.

Everything else can use a 0.2mm layer height.

Supports

Three things need support - the main body of the spool clamp, the inner part of the spool clamp that it connects to and the arm of the filament guide.

The main body of the spool clamp is fine being supported by whatever materiel it is printed in.

It should be printed in the orientation as pictured using tree supports to support the upper sticky-outy bits at the top.

The PTFE tube guide has some areas that need supporting. 

It should be printed in the orientation as pictured with slim tree supports for the overhangs.

The inner part of the spool clamp requires supporting. It should be printed in the orientation as pictured using the default supports.

Assembly

Spool Clamp

Install two M3 inserts into the end of the spool clamp.
Screw on the retainer, note that it is a reverse thread. This is so it is less likely to undo due to the rotation.
Install the handle on the end with two M3x20 screws and washers.

Gears

Install an M3 insert into the end of the gear as pictured.

Install the axel extension on the end with an M3x14 screw and washer.

Note that this uses one of the smaller axel extension parts.

Take the gear that looks like this.
Install an M3 insert in the hole on this side as pictured.

Install the axel extension on the end with an M3x14 screw and washer.

Note that this uses one of the smaller axel extension parts.

Take the final large gear and install an M3 insert in the middle.

Install the axel extension on the end with an M3x14 screw and washer.

This uses the larger axel extension part.

Install an M3 insert into the end of the drive axel, which will be one of two parts for the handle or drill option (or both!) - they both look like this however where it mates with the spindle.

The handle option is pictured. The drill option is similar, but without the arm.

If using the handle option install an insert into the end of the part pictured.

Central Frame

Find the front middle leg. Note that it has no text on it, to help you locate it.

Install 2x M3 inserts into the holes in the top of the part as pictured.

Find the rear middle leg. Note that it has no text on it, to help you locate it.

Install 2x M3 inserts into the holes in the top of the part as pictured.

Find this part and install inserts into only two of the three posts.

Find the central part of the central section of the frame. Install 4x M3 inserts on the holes on the side as pictured.

Do the same on the opposite side.

Install 3x 608 bearings in this area of the same part.
Fit the bearing retainer over the bearings, making sure the posts with the inserts in are inserted into the holes with matching holes in the back.
Support the bearing retainer from the side it is installed in, and secure it with two M3x8 screws and washers in these holes on the opposite side.

Stand up the central part of the frame, the front leg and the bottom bracket as pictured.

Use two M3x20 and washers to connect the bracket, leg and frame using the bottom two screw holes.

Use two M3x14 screws and washers to connect the leg to the frame half way up.

Do the same for the rear leg and bracket.

Place the central arch on top of the legs. It is smaller than the other two arches.

Connect the arch with two M3x14 screws and washers on each side.

Push-fit bearings in these two holes while supporting the frame from the rear.

Next Steps

Take the front left leg of the frame as pictured.

Note that this is similar to the front right leg, but slightly different - this one has a hole part way up.

There are two holes in the top as pictured. Install two M3 inserts in these holes.

Finally, push-fit a bearing into the large hole.

Take the lower part of the left frame and install two M3 inserts in either end.
Find the two lower rollers. They are the shorter ones. Install a bearing in both ends of each roller.

Place these parts with the existing assembly as pictured.

Connect the two screw holes to the frame and the bracket using two M3x20 screws and washers.

Find this part and install an insert in each hole at either end.
Secure the part with two M3x25 screws and washers using the holes half-way up each leg.

Gears & Gearbox

Find this piece and insert a length of PTFE tube through it.

It is a good idea to leave it a bit long so you can cut it down to your size preference later.

Place the part as pictured.
Insert the cam through the hole and into the bearing in the leg as pictured.

Find the gearbox cover as pictured. Install inserts in each of the seven holes.

Some may find it helpful to put bearings on the posts at this stage to use as a heat sink to help stop the plastic deforming in case of difficulties.

If using the handle option remove the bearings from the previous step if installed and insert it through the hole as pictured.

If using the drill option, ignore this for now.

Place the bearings over the posts after putting the handle through.

Install the bearing retainer as pictured. 

Connect with three M3x8 screws and washers.

You may need to carefully support the gearbox while doing this due to the protruding handle arm.

Find the two remaining gears. The next task is to install them so they fit as pictured in the gearbox cover.

To do this, I typically push in the handle connected to the main axel as far into the hole as I can and align the teeth of all the gears then slide them back into place wiggling as necessary.

If you are using the drill option, now is the time to introduce this part in place of the pictured handle option.

Place this somewhere carefully on its back for a moment before the next step.

Pull out the cam so that it is balanced as pictured.

At this stage it is worth finding four M3x14 screws and placing washers over them and having them close by.

Align the gear teeth as pictured and push the whole assembly into place carefully and gently. Support the assembly gently while going on to the next step.
Find the four M3x14 screws and washers you prepared a couple of steps ago and connect the gearbox cover using the four outermost screw holes pictured here.
If using the handle option, find the handle and retainer and rotate the arm slightly. Connect with an M3x14 screw and washer.

Find this part. 

To ensure that spools run true, please ensure that support materiel has been cleanly removed from the underside and that the cross shaped indentation is flat.

The cross in the back should be aligned with the cross on the drive shaft.

This screw for this part is known to slowly come loose and should be periodically checked, or a tiny amount of Loctite Blue on the end of the screw should secure it. Do not use Loctite Red.

You can use the handle to hold the axel stable, but do not use too much force as the handle will break if you do.

Screw in an M3x14 screw and washer and check to make sure it is fixed and runs true.

Right Frame

Find the two legs for the right hand side of the frame.

Note the orientation of the text so you install the correct rear leg.

Install two inserts in the top of each leg.

Finally, install a bearing in the hole in the top of the front leg.

Find the lower part of the right frame and install two inserts in either end.

Align the right frame legs and lower part as pictured.

Use two M3x20 screws and washers on each side to secure each leg to the bracket.

Place the arch on top and connect using two M3x14 screws and washers.

Please also note the orientation of the arrow, it is pointing to the right as pictured. If not, please use the other arch.

Secure the right arch to the middle arch using two M3x25 screws and washers in the holes pictured.

Final Steps

Take the rear left leg of the frame as pictured. Install two inserts into the top.
Place the remaining leg as pictured and connect with two M3x20 screws and washers.
Find the dust protection plate and install four inserts in the hole in each end.

We will connect the dust plate in the next step. Please be careful following this not to press on the other end, as it will be easy to break this with leverage.

Now connect one end with four M3x14 screws and washers.

Find the two upper rollers. Install two bearings in each.
Place the rollers onto the posts on one side. They will stay in place if you are careful.

Slide on the final arch, ensuring the posts match up with the bearings in the rollers.

Secure the arch to the dust protection plate using four M3x14 screws and washers.

Finally, find the upper support brackets. There is one for each side. Note that one end has a slight indentation where it meets the arch.

Secure one on each side using four M3x20 screws for each.

Flip the unit upside down and take the tooth piece and insert it into the carrier as pictured.
Ensure the tooth is flush with the part of the carrier it fits in. You may need to rotate the cam and tap the top of the tooth gently with a screwdriver.

Slide in the tooth retainer into the carrier, and then turn the unit the right way up.

If you have a plastic safe lubricant available put a small amount in the groove in the cam.

Run V-Spooler via the handle or drill to spread it across the cam, adding more if necessary. Wipe up excess with a paper towel.

Congratulations! It was a long build but you should now have a working V-Spooler X!

Using V-Spooler X

Here is a video showing how to operate V-Spooler, which works the same as V-Spooler X.

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