Rowboat Steering Mechanism

  Printing Instructions:
All printed parts are made from  PLA and should be printed in the  orientation in which they appear.

In addition to the printed parts you will need the following tools and parts:

       Heatset Insert tool

       Small set of Metric hex keys

       Small wrench

       2.3mm drill bit

       Hand Drill or Drill Press

       Coarse sandpaper

       M3 tap

       M2 tap

Fasteners and other stuff to buy:

 1: Toy Car Motor:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B099RNNTPJ?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

Assembly:

-Turn the Bed right side up and install 8: M3x5mm heatset inserts

-Install  2: M3x5mm inserts into the Bed’s stern end

-Install 2: M3 x 5mm inserts into the Small Motor Mount

-Install 4: M3 x 5mm inserts into the Rowing Frame

-Install 1: M3 x 5mm insert into each of the two Crank Disk Retainers 

-Install 1: M3 x 5mm insert into each of the two Oarlock Mounts

-Sand the tops of parts smooth when the inserts cool down

-If necessary, drill out any plastic that blocks the holes, then re-tap the inserts M3; make sure bolts thread in easily.  

-Using 4: M3 x 10mm SHCS fasten the Small Motor Mount to the long end of the Bed

-Using 4: M3 x 10MM SHCS fasten the Rowing Frame to the short end  of the Bed

-Fasten the Servo Mount to the top of the Small Motor Mount with 2: M3 x 10mm FHMS

-Install the Servo to the Servo Mount with 2: M2 x 10mm SHCS and nuts; tap the two  mounting holes M2 if necessary. Make sure that the output shaft is on top.

-Start the M3 x 10mm Grub Screws into the Crank Disk Retainers

-Slide the Crank Disk Retainers onto the shanks of the Crank Disks, making sure that the GrubScrews  line up with the holes on the Crank Disks.

-Thread the Grub Screws in just enough to keep them from falling off the Crank Disk shanks

-Press one assembly onto  each of the motor’s output shafts, making sure that the oar drive holes line up with each other.

-Tighten down the grub screws.

-Slide the motor, wires first, through the Small Motor Yoke, making sure that the output arms are facing away from the gearbox end. Snug the Yoke up on the back of the gearbox.

-Slide the motor assembly, wires first, into the Motor Mount

-Attach the Motor Retainer to the front of the Bed with 2: M3 x 10mm SHCS. The circular hole on top should just clear the rectangular knob on the end of the gearbox

-Assemble two sets of Kwik-Links back to back using short lengths of #2-56 allthread to join them together. Separate each pair of Kwik-Links by about two threads.  

-Attach the bottom of each pair of Kwik-Links to the holes in the Yoke

-Attach the top of each pair to the holes  in the Servo Output Arm

-Attach oarlocks to the Oarlock Mounts using M3 x 16mm SHCS and Nylock nuts, making sure that all play is removed but that they still swivel freely.

-Attach Oars to the Oarlocks using M3 x 16mm SHCS and Nylock nuts

-Slide each Oar Handle through the holes in the Crank Disk and fasten the Oarlock Mounts to the Rowing Frame, making sure that the Oarlock Heatset bosses are lined up with the slots in the Rowing Frame.

-Slide the Oarlock Mounts inward as much as the slots will allow and bolt them in place with M3 x 10mm SHCS. 

-That completes assembly. Motor should run with 3 to 6v and it’s a good idea to use a speed control to make sure it doesn’t go too fast until you get a feel for it.

-Let me know how it goes and if you have any problems.

-I’m working on another version of this that uses a larger motor for larger boats; stay tuned!

-And remember gang if you back me on Patreon I’ll send you .stp files so you can hack the design all you like: https://www.patreon.com/Steamboat_Ed?view_as=patron