AU Cooling Duct for Creality Sprite Extruder, Triple 5015 Fans, Ender 3 S1/S1 Pro

AU Cooling Duct
 

NEW UPLOAD 14/05/2024

• KLIPPER G-CODE FOR CHANGING BL-TOUCH PLACEMENT

[bltouch]
sensor_pin: ^PC14
control_pin: PC13
x_offset: -46.8 #Was -32 before new placement
y_offset: 0 #Was -40.7 before new placement
#z_offset: 0
probe_with_touch_mode: true
stow_on_each_sample: false

[safe_z_home]
home_xy_position: 146.8, 100 #Was 147, 154 before new bltouch placement
speed: 75
z_hop: 10
z_hop_speed: 5
move_to_previous: true

This is a remix of the K3D with less weight and more resistant, with a 5015 hotend fan for less noise and better cooling. 

AU Cooling Duct its compatible with Zuff's hotend

Before moving on, I recommend you become familiar with your printer, knowing all the parts and each connector what it is used for.

I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGE CAUSED TO YOUR PRINTER.

Things we need:

5015 Hotend Fan

• 1x 5015 fans
• Screws: 
  • M4*20

K3D Remix

• 2x 5015 fans
• Screws: 
  • 3x M3 *4
  • 4x M4 *20

I bought this screws which make my 3D models more aesthetics, but you can use others, as long as they work.

And the fans I use. (Make sure you buy the ones with the same voltage of your printer)

5015 Hotend Fan

To start installing the hotend fan, we will need to print the file Sprite Extruder Backplate 

I recommend to print first interior walls, then exterior, and finally the backfill, so that you can print it without any supports or problems at all. 

1	2

Before we move to the next step, check the print is perfectly printed because there is no wayback.

After this, disconect your extruder from the printer, and start dissasembling the extruder carriage.  

This carriage has 4 screws (red circle), unscrew them and be careful with the extrusor, it can fall into your bed.

Once you have it unplugged and removed the carriage, its time to remove the back of the extrusor and then the hotend fan. 

For this I recommend you to follow this video as a guide to disassemble it. 

Video disassembling the extrusor

Once you have the backplate, pcb, the fan and the bl touch disassembled, disconnect the hotend fan and the bl touch.

We will leave the extrusor and its parts away and we will focus now on the Creality fan.

We are going to cut the cable where the line red and only keep the connector (in case you are not that expert, leave more cable) 

Creality Fan	5015 FAN

Then we do the same thing on the 5015 fan, and make sure you keep a lot of cable just in case you need it. Finally you solder the 5015 fan to the creality connector, and there you have it. 

IMPORTANT, from what I have heard in some websites, creality inverted polarity but in my printer it wasn't the case. If you want to make sure of polarity before soldering, use a multimeter.

Moving back to our extrusor, you will insert the Sprite Extruder Backplate to the extrusor and the pcb on top of the new piece. It should look like in the picture at the left. 

When you have it, you can use the same screws than in the original piece.

Then, we move on with the bl touch, which only requires two screws (red circle). You can use the same screws than in the original piece. Then connect the bl touch to the correct place again.

Finally, we will pick our new 5015 fan, insert it in the hole and screw a M4*20 (red circle). Then connect the fan to the correct place again.

K3D Remix

To start we will need to print the file S1 Pro 2 cooling fan. Before we move to the next step, check the print is perfectly printed because there is no wayback.

After this, we will disconnect it's cable from the plate and unscrew the original fan.

Now the tricky part, swap the original fan for 2x 5015 fans

2 ways of doing this:

Serial connection

Parallel connection

Voltage: Fans in series divide the total voltage between them, so each fan may operate at a fraction of the total voltage. Current: The current is constant throughout the series and is equal to the total current supplied by the power source. Performance: Series fans may experience decreased performance due to voltage division. Dependency: If one fan fails, it may affect the entire circuit, halting the operation of all fans. More Complex Setup: Installation can be more complicated, as fans must be connected in a chain.

Voltage: Fans in parallel operate at the same voltage as the power supply. Current: Each fan in parallel receives the same current as if it were alone. Performance: Parallel fans can offer uniform and consistent performance. Independence: If one fan fails, the others can continue to operate. Ease of Installation: Relatively easy to install, as each fan connects directly to the power supply.

I recommend parallel connection but you can choose whatever you like more. In case you don't understand the process,  ask me.

When we finish soldering the cables, we will pick one fan and insert it this way.

We will take 2x M4*20 screws, insert them in there hole, and tighten them well.

After we finish in one side, we will do it other side and repeat the process.

When we finish inserting our fans into the model, we will pick up our extruder, and attach our new model to it.

Now, with the 3x M3*4 screws we have left, we attach them where the red circle is, but this time don't tighten them yet.

This step is important, you need to raise the model up or down until you point the air outlet with the end of nozzle like in this picture, without been below the nozzle.

Thats it, you've finished building AU Cooling Duct Remix

Recommendations

Optimal adhesion during the initial layer is crucial. It's advisable to refrain from activating the fans during this phase, as it significantly reduces the risk of adhesion failure. Maintain fan inactivity during the initial layers, gradually increasing its intensity by the third or fourth layer.

 This gradual adjustment is pivotal to prevent warping and detachment from the build plate. Although utilizing a duct exacerbates this issue, it offers numerous advantages elsewhere, provided you devise strategies to mitigate its impact.

Benefits

This duct addresses multiple issues inherent in Creality printers like the E3S1Pro. Firstly, the stock cooling system proves inadequate for maintaining optimal performance at higher printing speeds. While it may suffice at speeds around 60mm/s, pushing the limits with enhancements such as a SonicPad reveals shortcomings, leading to compromised print quality.

Moreover, visibility from the front of the printer is obstructed by most existing modifications, limiting observation of the nozzle. A primary objective of this duct's design was to rectify this limitation, offering improved visibility of the printing process from the printer's front. While some restriction persists, users will likely find this solution superior to existing alternatives.

Another critical aspect addressed is extreme bridging, which necessitates a robust airflow to support filament deposition without additional support structures. The nozzle's tension plays a vital role in bridging, requiring sufficient airflow for successful execution.

Additionally, the duct enhances cooling efficiency for small features, such as the chimney on the Benchy model. Typically, slicers allocate a minimum cooldown time for the layer beneath the one being printed. While setting this time to zero may seem viable, it often results in unstable layers. The high-volume airflow generated by this duct effectively "freezes" the lower layers in place, ensuring greater stability and quality in intricate features.

Less weight than the original model.

5015 hotend fan.