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This is a set of fittings making a full size archery target stand. Besides the fittings, some wood is required (see Additional Parts below). With a target (Schießscheibe) sized 80x80cm, the center of target will be at a height of 130cm. The design tilt is 15 degrees.
When I started to design the stand, I considered both a plain wood and a mixed 3D printed / wooden solution. I am used to both carpeting and 3D printing. Using just wood is probably straight forward and the cheapest approach. A purely wooden solution would required higher quality wood (e.g. beech) and larger timber sizes compared to those used here. To get a stable solution, advanced carpeting technics like grooved connections would be appropriate too. On the other hand, 3D printing the fittings for this project is not a small job. It is not complicated but requires something around 600gr of PETG filament and several days of printing. So it is definitely the more expensive solution.
Anyway, I thought it is fun to use 3D printing and the result is super functional and very nice. In the end we often print because we are able to.
I have printed all parts with my standard settings 0.2mm layer height, 0.4mm nozzle. Higher values will improve printing times and are recommended. Recommended material is PETG, PLA is too brittle.
Infill used is 40% to get higher strength, 3 instead if 2 perimeters may be a good choice.
Except for the FrontHingeLeft and FrontHingeRight parts, no printing support is required.
The traverse between front fixes the front and back legs in a 30 degree angle. Instead of printing the two connectors and adding timber as a traverse, you can use some rope or chain to limit the leg to leg angle to 30 degrees
In case the dimension of square timber differs from the above values, you need change the parameters in the Fusion file provided and export your own STL files.
All timber parts are visible in TimberLengths.png available in the Photos section.
In general, all pieces can be cut straight (90 degree) because the printed fittings will cover the missing bevel. However, for a better stability, it is recommended to cut certain ends with such a bevel. When naming bevels, we refer to the “long” side (44mm) and the “short” side (24mm) of the squared timbers.
All parts including the optional bevel are listed here:
This is straight forward. The only thing to mention is about Connector parts. There are always front and back versions that need to be combined. The only difference for them is about the positions of the screw holes. They are different to allow the use of long screws that go through the long 44mm side of the timber almost completely and without conflicts between front and rear screws.
The author marked this model as their own original creation.