Flip Down Front Nozzle Scrubber for Prusa XL

If you have a Prusa XL, you NEED the excellent Front Nozzle Scrubber that @Surfalex2000 designed. Seriously, I don't know how you make the XL work properly without it!

It solved my problems caused by the messy print head. The only thing about his Nozzle Scrubber that bothered me, was that the brushes are necessarily very close to the build sheet. This made it a little fidgety to remove and replace the build sheet. The other issue was when wiping down the sheet, the brushes would catch the cloth.

So I fired up my CAD program and designed a version that could flip down out of the way, and doesn't require any snaps, catches, magnets, etc to do so.

It also moves the brush lock screws to the front for easier accessibility.

Surfalex's model can be found at https://www.printables.com/model/644817-prusa-xl-series-front-nozzle-scrubber-including-g-

All the G-code is the same, simply substitute my model for his.

You'll need the following hardware:

• 4x M3x20mm screws to mount the bracket to the underside of the heat bed.

• 2x M4x15mm screws to mount the Brush Block to the bracket.

• 3x M3x8mm screws for the brush locks.

The parts are provided in a 3mf format that has them oriented properly for printing, and with supports and modifiers to make life easier. You should print this in PETG.

1) Load the 3mf file as a project. Print the parts, remove the supports.

2) Insert the Brush Block hinge into the Bracket hinge. Fasten with the M4x15 screws. The screws are a slip fit in the Brush Block hinge, and get threaded into the Bracket hinge. You could run an M4 tap into the Bracket hinge first if you have one, otherwise you'll have to run the screw in there to cut it's own threads.

Make the screws snug, but not overly tight so that it's difficult to move the Brush Block up and down.

3) If you have an M3 tap, you can tap the 3 screw lock holes first. If not, you'll have to run the screws in to cut their own threads.
(I included extra perimeters so you can drill the lock holes for a larger screw if you need to accommodate whatever hardware you have on hand).

4) Remove the 4 existing screws from the heat bed mounting locations, and screw the bracket to the heat bed. *NOTE: These screws need to be fairly tight; if they come loose, you'll likely wind up with a high spot on the build surface there.  I recommend increasing the perimeters around the mounting screws, and using a washer when installing the mounting screws.

5) Insert your brushes, adjust the height, and lock them down. They don't need to be too tight, just snug.

6) Add the G-code to your slicer as per Surfalex's project.

Post your makes so we can see it!

Complete redesign to allow for the brush to flip down on a hinge, facilitating easy removal / replacement of the print sheet.