After deciding I wanted an enclosure and seeing that what I would want ready built would run around $250 and not finding any designs to print and build it myself, I created this set of brackets, filament routing solutions and miscellaneous odds and ends for my own enclosure system. The design was made to use cheap 1x2 lumber and 1/8" thick plexiglass sheets, and will accommodate whatever dimension of plexiglass you choose. Just cut your 1x2s to length to correspond with your plexiglass dimensions and assemble. This makes it a great alternative for those that have printers that won't fit the popular Lack table enclosure, or otherwise don't want to be constrained to those dimensions.
I also added a few additional features to the enclosure. There are mounting brackets to mount the popular Honeycomb Storage Wall panels by RostaP built into the top supports, and separately to screw into the frame so you can keep your 3D printing tools close at hand and organized. I also designed a filament routing system, heavily inspired by Yosuke's Mk3s Low profile filament guide for IKEA Lack enclosure to allow the filament to remain in the enclosure to benefit from the warmer ambient temp and potentially lower humidity. I also included magnet holders (¾" diameter) in the brackets for the left side top and bottom and door stop piece, and plates to hold magnets in the door knob backer (4x6mm diameter) and at the corners of the door (¾" diameter) to help keep the door closed during printing.
The whole system has also been designed with ease of printing in mind. The vast majority of the parts, including all corner brackets, print without need of supports, and everything has been uploaded in the correct orientation for printing to take the guesswork out of how to best arrange things. Models that do require support, or are ideally printed in TPU rather than PLA or ASA/ABS are indicated as such in the model name. I've also included text in the models for all of the corner brackets which is out of sight when the enclosure is assembled, but helps in keeping organized and with assembly. There are print-in-place hinges I designed for the door and all the other miscellaneous hardware needed to make this as printable as possible without a long list of items to purchase to finish it up. All you'll need here are some #6 wood screws, some M3 nuts and bolts, the (optional) magnets for the door, and a bit of PTFE tubing for the filament routing option if you choose to employ it. There are also pieces to go on the backside of the hinges and in the corners of the plexiglass door (ideally printed in TPU) to spread the force of the bolts holding it to the hinges and soften the door closing. The only printable part that is used in my enclosure setup that I didn't design myself was the Perfect Hinge design by JMAW which I used to secure the top plexiglass panel at the back, making it possible to open the top. There are files for spacers and backing plates to affix them to the frame and plexiglass sheet. I've also included versions of the top brace brackets with and without holes to screw them into the frame to keep them from sliding.
The plexiglass panels can be made to be more sealed with some silicone caulking, and the bottom and around the door and top lid can be sealed using foam weather stripping tape if preferred. You can also use insulation foam sheets in place of plexiglass on the back as I've done if you prefer. I've only used weather stripping around the base and at the front and back of the hinged top at this point, and have been printing ASA successfully, and maintaining an air temp inside the enclosure of just above 40°c with the bed temp set at 100°c.
Note: I have not printed and used the spool spindle included as the spool holder arm was designed to fit the spindle that came with my 3D printer that runs on bearings. I think things should still run just fine without them as long as the hole through your filament roll is smooth and even, but I haven't personally tested this.
The author marked this model as their own original creation.