MCRN Donnager MMU for Prusa XL-5T

You can go a little bigger but 280% is a nice round number for about as big as you can print the Donny without extra splitting up of parts on the Prusa XL. Ends up ~38in/97cm long. IIRC it took took me almost a month to fiddle with things and get all the parts printed with a single Prusa XL. There are 20 plates that need to be printed and most of them take over a day to finish with input shaper.

The print also takes a considerable amount of filament. You can do the maths from the sliced stats, but IIRC I used over 4kg of BlackGrey and MidGrey each. From my experience, silk PLAs work better than all other types of PLAs when using zero-distance PETG for support structures. Feel free to use what you want, but if you're wondering why I don't specify a tool for the prime tower, it is because it wasn't necessary or would have made things worse. 

Prime tower isn't necessary, but because there are so many small perimeters from the many colors the print comes out looking much better with one than without. Tested on one of the DonnyA2_10height plates and the difference is significant and easily noticeable.

Be sure to check the filament colors in the Plater View for the correct filament setup. I don't use the exact same setup for every plate - sometimes it's 5 PLAs, sometimes 4 PLAs and 1 PETG, sometimes the colors move around, etc.

The modifiers are to reinforce the connection points so they hopefully don't break during assembly. Otherwise, the models are set to 2 perimeters which adds up quite fast when there are perimeters generated between every color.

You will probably want metal picks, a deburring tool, and maybe a soft rubber mallet - metal picks to help remove supports; deburring tool can help with the pegs/pegholes; soft rubber mallet is mostly for putting the engine halves together but a few solid slaps work too.

Filaments:

1. BlackGrey  silkPLA
2. MidGrey  silkPLA
3. LightGrey  silkPLA
4. Orange  silkPLA
5. Yellow  silkPLA
6. White  PLA
7. Glow in the Dark Blue  PLA
8. any color  PETG (supports)

Plate Notes:

DonnyA__T1-BlackGrey,T2-Orange,T3-LightGrey,T4-PETG,T5-MidGrey

• Just slide the 3 different groups onto the plate and slice
• Print 2 copies of xxx_-_donny-5_2x's

DonnyA__just_engines-2-4x

• Prime tower optional
• The outer supports are needed but I only added them after finding that out, so you may need to tweak them a bit

DonnyA__just_donny6

• Make sure you use at least PS 2.7.2-a2 otherwise you'll get color issues
• During my print the default setting prime tower fell over, so I advise reinforcing it (larger brim, wider stabilization cone, etc)

DonnyA2_10height

• Print 4 copies of one of the models then print 4 of the other model (mirrored)
• This uses .10mm layer heights to keep the curves looking smooth, feel free to change
• You may even want to add an extra top layer or two to get rid of those few weird ‘spots’
• There is an overhang that will need sandwiched support (PETG support printed onto the PLA model to support a PLA overhang, picture uploaded). Shouldn't be that difficult to remove with a metal pick and some needle pliers.

DonnyA3_T4-white

• Print 2 copies of this plate

DonnyB_T4n6-GLOWBLUE

• Tool4 is set to a .6mm nozzle for glow in the dark blue PLA filament, but I think you should be able to easily revert to .4mm if you want or are too lazy to swap nozzles
• Be aware of the many caveats when doing multi-nozzlesize print things if you mess with the settings for this plate

DonnyB_T4n6-GLOWBLUE_FORK-TOWER

• If it turns out you need/want a wipe tower for this plate then you'll need to use this PS fork

DonnyC_T1-GOLD

• During assembly, take a soft mallet and make sure the center is really down all the way on its peg. If your prints went well but the edges of this part aren't flush with the rest of the print then its not all the way down. The holes seem more for alignment than holding the part down.

DonnyD-n4s_T2-White

• I originally planned to print this plate with .25mm nozzles but was too lazy to make the swaps. Worked well enough with .4mm nozzles \_(ツ)_/

DonnyD_T2-White_stand

• I just wanted a smaller footprint and was too lazy to CAD it.

Other notes:

I did make a lot of fixes/modifications after printing a plate. So things should go better you than they did for me, but since I haven't tried I'm not 100%. As always, use settings that work for your setup. This is just a starting point.

Also I don't have a save for the pegs, so you'll need to grab them from Martin's original model.

280% scaled, painted, and setup for a Prusa XL-5T