Creality K1 high risers with multifunctions

Problems tackled by the model:

1. Height of the raiser, so that the PTFE tube doesn't scratch the lid (this depends on your routing option). Height also helps for point #3 (hot air evacuation).
2. Includes 45 degrees supports for LED band (you will have to use original adhesive tape of the led, but if it's weak you will need to use better tape or glue it). In order to print with minimum suports I had to sacrifice the feature of creating a channel on this support so that the led band can be inserted without adhesive.
3. There are 3 (out of 4) walls that include hexagonal holes (for no support printing). The holes have an down/up 45 degrees orientation, from the inside of the printer to the exterior, so that the hot air is easily evacuated if you have the lid on, when printing PLA for example (so the lid doesn't need to be removed).
4. Doors that can be inserted in order to close the hexagonal holes, in case you are using material that requires closed chamber. The back wall also has a small wall built-in on top so that also the back gap in the lid is sealed.
5. Posibility to remove the metalic chain support and install the chain directly on the riser in a slightly higher position. Again, this might be required if you changed the configuration of your PTFE tube or chain and added load to it. In some configurations the chain gets lower, scratching the guides. This feature allows you to put the chain higher (For this feature you will need nuts that can be heated and inserted into plastic).
6. Posibility to move the filament sensor inside, creating a shorter route to the hotend. The tube can go outside from the sensor to the side, oriented either downwards or upwards (if you have a filament dryer/ box on the wall or even on top of the printer). I left a back hole in case you want to keep the sensor in it's original position. For this feature you do not need nuts and you can use the original screws.
7. Built-in support for storage of the doors on the back wall.

Instructions:

1. Can be printed in all kind of materials, in the pictures you will see PLA.
2. I used printing speeds of 160-180 mm/s.
3. Prints well in 0.2 mm layer (here I suggest 4 walls, so min 0.8mm wall)
4. You will need:
   • 3 x Normal corner (STL)
   • 1 x Back corner (STL)
   • 3 x Wall with grid (STL)
   • 1 x Back wall (STL)
   • 2 x Side door + 1 x Front door (the only difference is some small cuts to allow the insertion of the doors on the side with the lid on). (STL)
   • 2 or 4 pieces of M3 nuts that can be heated and inserted into plastic (only if you want to move the chain up). You can use the original screws for the mounting.
   • 4 M3 screws to fix the corners (variable lenght but longer than 6mm)
   • You can use the 2 original screws to mount on top of the corners to match the magnets of the lid.
5. Suggestions:
   • Use minimum 15% gyroid infill
   • Glue the parts with super glue or flexible glue. Glue them offline and add the assembly on the printer later. I suggest testing the holes and corners fit before gluing the assembly. Also, if you glue offline, you should use the lid to make sure you are gluing correctly (check the 90 degrees corners). Gluing is not mandatory.
   • If you install LEDs, please monitor it for a few days, after vibration and heat, to make sure that the adhesive tape is ok (I had 1 corner that got loose after 2 days, probably due to grease/dirt during installation, one drop of super glue solved it).
   • If your filament is on the left of your printer, these risers might not be suited.
   • If your fillament is on the back of your printer, you will need to keep the sensor outside, in the original position and enter trough the back corner (back wall).

Any suggestions welcome. Share it if you like it and find it usefull.

Special thanks to @Henlor that provided the full 3D model of the K1 printer so I used the top as base.