Filament Frame for MK3/S/+ or MK4

MUST be printed in ASA for proper strength. I found that printing using Nozzle temp of 276c and 110c worked well. Of course, Prusament ASA works best…but it was out of stock, so used Overture, Elegoo, or HP ASA from Amazon.

Used the Dovetail cut to allow the FRAME and DRAWER FRONT to fit (standing up) on MK3/S/+ or MK4 and still have strength and stability. You will nend two (2) of the FRAME but only ONE (1) DRAWER FRONT. Use a strong glue (I used E6000) on both sides and let dry completely. I found they were plenty strong! However, there is an optional channel for the pieces to fit together. Only place channel on underside to prevent back plate from catching, and not sliding. If you use glue the channel to the outside of the frame with the #6x3/8" screws for positioning, it will give additional strength without interfering with action of slide.

NOTE: Cut the PVC pipe an inch shorter than drawer slides for the drawer to fully retract. The slides recommended are self-closing. Also make sure the pipes are fully inserted into the back and front plates. (Recommend using a light rubber mallet to encourage them into frame.) Use the 5/8 flat wood screws to attach the PVC pipe to the front plate and back plate. Drill a 5/32" hole through the holes in the plate into the pipe. Do NOT overtighten.

Make sure the front plate holes are lined up with the holes on the slide…see picture attached. It worked best for me to attach the supports to the pipe to help hold the slide in place to more easily insert the screws into the front plate. Wait to attach to the slides to the pipe as you may need to adjust to allow the slide proper clearance of the back face with the back frame.

Line the front and back plates level BEFORE securing with screws. Again, I found securing the supports onto the pipe before the frame helpful to hold slide to front plate. Only hand tighten and use recommended 5/8" screws or run the risk of cracking the supports. It is a good idea to print spares! Test the clearance of backplate to frame before final installation.

I have also included some pegs to connect the frames. Glue into place as needed. This is faster and cheaper than ordering.

Pictures: The easiest way to insert the slides into the frame is to lay on floor, insert one slide (outer part) into both frames (front and back) and to step on the slides until they POP into place.

To attach the slides to the frames, use the flat Phillip #6x3/8" screws. The back frame is about 5" from the end, and the holes are visible through the slide.  Make sure the screws are setted completely. The front of the slide goes all the way to the front of the frame. You have to open the slide as shown in the picture where the holes are accessible. Repeat for the other frame.

At this point, I recommend putting the drawer slides together, turning the assembly over and check the clearance of the back plate has good clearance for the back frame. You can still adjust where the supports attach to the pipe to ensure is parallel. 

Attach the handle and Drawer Fron using 2 4x30 mm bolts. They will self drill into handle. Add additional screws (where holes in front plate indicate) to the Drawer Plate.

Parts List

Here is a list of some of the parts necessary.  Some of the links are affiliate links, but you can source your own if you want!

• ½" PVC Pipe (the design is made for schedule 40, commonly found at every hardware store)
• Lontan Drawer Slides
• #6 3/8" wood screws (for attaching drawer slides, 8 per module)
• #6  5/8" wood screws (for connecting modules, faceplates, middle supports.  20 required per module, additional for connecting modules together)
• ½" Cabinet Door Bumpers (3.5mm tall, 2 per module)

Wood screws work, but you could also use thread-forming screws made for plastic.  Be careful when adding fasteners, go slow and limit your torque or you could split the 3d printed parts.

Modified to print on the MK3/S/+ and MK4 printers.