The Ultimate Ergonomic Workspace Work Station

Keep your projects at just the right angle as you work!

This model is modular, allowing you to use parts you find will be helpful to you! And it features holes to fasten it to your work bench!

Update March 27, 2024: Added rotating plate tray. See below for assembly instructions.

The Frame

Additional Required Hardware

• M4x30 Screw (4)
• M4x20 Screw (4)
• M4 Nut (8)
• 6x3mm Magnets (8)

The M4 screws can be longer than 30mm without it affecting the functionality of the work station. I just found these sizes make it more aesthetically pleasing.

Note

The maximum dimension for the tray is ~230mm. So, I apologize to those who have a smaller build volume than that. I've practically maxed out the build volume of my current printers for this design.

The tilt of the work station depends on the lengths of the links. You'll want shorter links in the front for it to tilt forward. The greater the discrepancy between the front and rear link lengths, the greater the tilt will be (i.e. if you use the shortest links for the front and the longest links for the back it will result in the steepest incline of all the configurations available for this model)

There are various lengths of links so you can customize how far it tilts as you pull it forward. In the example photos I used Short Links and Longest Links (e.g. 2x short thin link, 2x short thick link, 2x longest thin link, and 2x longest thick link)

There are two versions of knob. I found when using the helper arms, it's better to use Knob v2 so it doesn't interfere with the Sliding Joint Lock of the helper arm.

I've included step files to encourage remixing the trays that can fit on top in order for it to meet your needs. There is also a step file for the socket that will fit over the ball joints. If you find you need a solution to a tool you're using, you can easily design something that will interface with the ball joints of this model.

Also included are files for larger printers if you need a larger workstation. I don't have a large printer so I couldn't print them, but the fitment should be the same.

Suggestions on how to improve this model are welcome.

Print Instructions

NO SUPPORTS NEEDED!

The alligator clip has tolerances of 0.2mm and the magnet holes have a tolerance of 0.3mm. You'll want to ensure your printer is well tuned for a level bed, pressure advance, and flow rate to ensure the alligator clip doesn't bind and that it isn't too difficult to push the magnets in the holes. You may want to use Glue if the magnet fitment is too loose.

All models should be oriented in the way they were intended to be printed when they were designed.

It's recommended to use a brim when printing the majority of these parts unless you enjoy wasting filament on failed prints.

when printing the third hand, it's recommended to use PETG or other durable filament to ensure the parts don't deform over time and become too loose.

You'll also find some third-hand joints that you could use to connect metal alligator clips if you worry about the plastic melting.

Print the following:

• Top x 1
• Bottom x 1
• Thin Link x 4 (2 shorter and 2 longer)
• Thick Link x 4 (2 shorter and 2 longer)
• Knobs x 4 (Optional)
• Tray x 1

Assembly

Secure the magnets into the top piece and tray.

The fitment of the magnets was designed so they stick above the surface of the Top piece and fit below the surface of the Tray. This serves as a “key” so when you place the tray on top they will aid in preventing the tray from sliding around on the Top piece.

NOTE: Make sure you have the magnets oriented correctly so they don't repel the tray when you place it on the Top piece.

To assemble the work station:

1. Grab 1 M4x20 screw and a thin link. Feed the screw through the link and into one of the joint holes from the outside on the bottom piece.
2. Grab 1 M4 nut and a thick link of the same length. Place the nut inside the the thick link and screw the M4x20 screw from step 1 into the nut.
3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 for the other three joint holes of the bottom piece.
4. Grab 1 M4X30 screw and feed it through the thick link and into the joint hole of the top from the inside so the exposed screws are exposed on the outside. Note the spacing of the joints on the top piece. The smaller space is the back.
5. Grab an M4 nut. If you wish to use a knob, place the nut inside the knob. Thread the nut onto the exposed screw threads from step 4.
6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for the other three joint holes of the top piece.

I recommend keeping the screws finger tight so you can still manipulate the workstation without having to loosen anything.

After you've finished assembling it, you can now stick a tray of your choice to it.

The Rotating Plate Tray

This makes use of gears and a locking mechanism within the gear knob to prevent the plate from spinning.

There are a lot of interconnecting parts to make this work, so you'll want to ensure your printer is calibrated for flow rate, pressure advance, and level bed before printing some of these parts.

Don't hesitate to message me if you find a problem with the design or if you're struggling with any part of the assembly process, including understanding the instructions. I'll be happy to fix any discrepancy that may have occurred between prototyping and uploading.

Additional Required Hardware

• 6x3mm magnets
• Glue (I used CA glue)

Print Instructions

The only part that requires supports is the Plate and the supports are minimal; just need it for the middle of the plate.

As usual, all parts should be oriented in the way they were intended to be printed at the time I designed them.

Print the following:

• Rotate Tray x 1
• Plate x 1
• Track x 2
• Large Gear x 1
• Gear Knob x 1
• Plate Gear Fastener_Bottom x 1
• Plate Gear Fastener_Top x 1
• Large Gear Fastener_Bottom x 1
• Large Gear Fastener_Top x 1

Assembly

Note that the Fasteners for the Plate and Large Gear are different heights.

Special Note:

As with any set of gears, you may experience backlash, or play, between the gears when rotating back and forth.

Due to the wide variety of printer configurations out there, I purposefully didn't embed threads into the Tray like I did for the Gear Knob. This makes it so you can use the loose tolerance of where the Large Gear and Plate Fasteners interface with the Tray to your advantage.

To minimize backlash, When gluing the fasteners to the Tray, you can attempt to slide them as close together as you can before the glue sets.

You may still experience backlash after this, but there's only so much you can minimize before you have to switch over to precise machined metal gears. And even then, there's still backlash. So keep that in mind.

1. Take the Plate Fastener_Top, feed it through the top of the plate and screw on the Plate Fastener_Bottom part.
2. Take the Large Gear Fastener_Top, feed it through the top of the Large Gear and screw on the Large Gear Fastener_Bottom.
3. Attach Gear Knob to Rotating Tray.
4. Glue Large Gear Fastener_Bottom and Plate Gear Fastener Bottom to the Rotating Tray. Push the Large Gear by the Fastener into the Gear Knob so the Large Gear meshes more tightly with the Gear Knob while the glue sets. Do the same when gluing the Plate to the Tray. push the Plate by the Fastener so the gear meshes more tightly to the Large Gear until the glue sets.In case it's not clear, when gluing, to mesh the gears more tightly, push like this:
5. After glue cures, you can now rotate plate and use the lock in the knob to stop the plate from spinning.

Make sure the magnets are set so they don't repel each other.

Third Hand Configurations

These are just a couple of example configurations that I set up. You have plenty of more options when using the files in the Third Hand Files folder.

Having a magnetic track to hold your third hand apparatus makes it easy to change up your configuration.

Though I designed the Bar and Bar Ball to be a press fit, you may find you need to use glue to keep them together. If you can't seem to fit them together, you can easily scale the Bar down to have it fit inside the Bar Ball more easily.

The threads for the Bolt and Clamp Screw can be a little tight, so if you choose to scale them down, make sure you only do so on the x and y axis and not the z axis so the threads still match up.

For those who have joined my club at the “Obsessor” tier, prints of this model can be used for commercial purposes.

Feel free to join my discord for additional support, questions, or suggestions!