Soprano Ukulele - v5.5

There are already many designs for 3D printed ukuleles. Why another one? My goal was to design and build from scratch an instrument that I could then use to write my own original song.

It ended up taking a lot longer than I originally anticipated, and there were many mistakes along the way. Versions 1 through 5.2 never saw the light of day. But I'm pretty happy with out it finally turned out.

Update 9/26/24 - I've got a new and improved Model 3 tuner design.  Check it out.  I've added a new headstock designed to be compatible with them.

Update 7/27/24 - Need something a little more flashy?  Take a look at my new design with internal LED lighting!

Update 5/29/24 - Want to crank up the volume to 11? Check out my new design for an acoustic-electric soprano ukulele!

Update 5/6/24 - v5.5  On a couple of older prints I saw some delamination of the body underneath the bridge, so I added a little extra bracing under the bridge to prevent it.

Sound demo and build instructions available in the video below:

Click here for printed ukulele tuners I designed to go with this uke.

I've also designed a mount to hang the uke from the wall.

IIn addition to the printed parts, you'll need 

• Strings for a soprano ukulele. I like D'Addario Nyltech.
• 200 mm long, 5 mm diameter carbon fiber rod in the neck for strength. The rod is available from Amazon. If you don't want to use the carbon fiber rod, there is a version of the neck available without the rod hole.
• One Number 4, 1'' wood screw to screw the headstock to the neck
• 8 #2 3/8'' screws if using my Model 3 tuners

Print Settings

• Printer : Bambu Lab P1S
• No Supports Rafts, or Brims
• Resolution: 0.12 mm
• Infill: 50 %
• Filament material: LA

Notes:

Various parts were glued together. I like Gorilla brand superglue gel. See the video for pictures of the build.

If the bridge isn't glued properly, it can pull off. I found lightly sanding the bottom of the bridge really helps. I also apply pressure using clamps for 10 or 15 minutes to make sure it is strongly attached.

Most parts were printed with 0.12 mm resolution. However, the fretboard was printed with 0.08 mm resolution. For the fretboard, I paused the print at the top of the fretboard to change filament colors, so that the frets print in a different color than the fretboard.

You'll need 

• Body
• Bridge
• Saddle
• Center ring
• Fretboard
• Five fret markers
• Saddle
• Neck
• Headstock screw cover
• Headstock
• Strap pin (if you want to use a strap)

If using the Model 3 tuners, use the version specifically for Model 3.  If you want compatibility with Grover 9NB commercial tuners, use the original headstock design, Headstock - with inlay, or Headstock - no inlay.

If using the carbon fiber rod print the Neck. Otherwise print the neck - no rod hole

The saddle is a compensated saddle. When placing it in the slot in the bridge, pay attention to the orientation. The peaks in the middle part of the bridge should be further from the top of the uke, and peaks on the edges of the bridge should be nearer the top.