Artillery Sidewinder x1 - Gantry Support Remix

Modification for Artillery Sidewinder X1 printers. Reduces wobbling, reduces ghosting. Please consider posting a…
6
28
0
328
updated February 27, 2024

Description

PDF

This is my reupload from my thingiverse model: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4243350

Modification for Artillery Sidewinder X1 printers.

Reduces wobbling, reduces ghosting.

Please consider posting a 'make' or help through commenting so we can improve this design by community efford.

IF you're from the US and have issues finding metric rods (by the way, what is an inch? :P) consider the Remix of KhalFrenzy on thingiverse!

Print Settings

Printer:

Artillery Sidewinder X1

Rafts:

Doesn't Matter

Supports:

No

Infill:

20-30%

Notes:

Take care that the dimensions of the holes fit your screws etc.

Recommended print-options:

  • [X] outer before inner Walls (hanging holes - prevent printing into air)
  • [X] connect infill lines (lots of small fragments at infill)

How I Designed This

Introduction

First of all: Thank you (x100!) @ Artillery Evnovo Sidewinder X1 Z-Portal/Gantry Support by gerdfranz. (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3883785/remixes)

While I was building his model (which had good use on my machine!) I encountered some problems:

  • Drilling into rods is frustratingly difficult without a mounted drill
    • Both holes have to be aligned
    • Distancing between holes decide if the mounting will be successful
    • No chance recalibrating - error-prone?
  • Bottom clamp bends over the edge of the printer while fastening the screw
  • Top bearings seem to be lose; I encapsulated them.
  • I tried to improve the overall sturdiness; maybe a little bit over-the-top but regarding my taste

I used basic design ideas of gerdfranz and remade this model from scratch in Freecad. Thanks to Freecadteam for their effords; this model is a way to tribute their work; still, it was maddeningly difficult to wrap my brain around this program. Finally I fought my way through and I'm proud I didn't have to rely on a cloud-based-commercial-program.

This is my first own project; Therefore it might be that the freecad files I provide contain errors or oddities construction wise.

This build, the measurements, fits my machine and I hope yours as well; I fear there are some tolerances, regarding the drill of the holes in your machine; PLEASE LET ME KNOW!

I tried to design with some tolerances, but I might modify the remix.

Parts needed

  • 2 M10 (steel) rods - I measure 605mm in my configuration, rather add a centimeter and cut afterwards
  • 8 M10 nuts - Nuts vary slightly in size, I tried several, gently hammering them into the part worked for me.
  • 4 long Inbus screws (M5); just like the spare part of the Artillery
  • 8 short Inbus screws (M5)
    • the stock-screws on the bottom plate can be reused; otherwise add 4 more M5 Inbus.

Printing Advice

  • Take care that the dimensions of all holes fit your screws.
  • Brim wasn't needed in my case; be aware of warping at the edges.

*Fan is needed for the bottom-mounting part since the part contains a steep overhang inside.

  • consider using a 3D infill. I used gyroid. Use "Outer before inner Walls" and "connect infill lines"
  • clamp has to be printed laying down on the back so the part gets stiffer because the layers are aligned in direction of the stress of the screws when tightening.
  • On popular demand now explicitly:MIRROR THE PARTS PER SIDES.

Assembly

  1. Insert nuts into the bottom mounts (if not snuggerly held, ensure the fit.)
  2. a.) screw + b.) clamp together bottom mounts onto the printer
  3. a.) Insert nuts into Topmount; Pressfit. b.) screw topmounts on frame - care for tight z-belt
  4. screw two nuts onto the aprox. 605 mm rod - from both ends so they don't block further assembly
  5. screw rod into the top part till you are able to insert it into the bottom mount;
  6. screw it into bottom mount, take care that the rod gets cought by the inlay-nut. Don't overscrew it, for it will force itself in a 10° angle into the printer and damage the surface.
  7. If the rod is securely in the upper and lower hidden nut, tighten the nuts you previously inserted onto the middle of the rod.

TAKE CARE NOT TO OVERTIGHTEN THE NUTS SINCE IT BENTS THE GANTRY

Addendum

Please let me know, if the design doesn't work on your machine and I try to adapt the build.

I'd be happy if you post 'Makes' of this as to receive any comments on my first build. I hope this design is useful.

  • This is a first draft of the manual; I don't have time right now but will add pictures/be more explanatory.

sincerely,

Category: 3D Printer Parts

Tags



Model origin

The author marked this model as their own original creation. Imported from Thingiverse.

License