Articulated Seahorse

2.28.24 UPDATE: Replaced “seahorse head rev3” STL as it was having some printing issues.

I looked around the printables site and saw that there were no articulated seahorse figures.  Note that just before publishing, I did see one was published just 1 day before mine (shoot!) 

I split the main body* and tail in two to allow for larger models to fit on the build plate.  By doing so, I could print up to 100% scale on my SOVOL SV-05 and MakerGear M2 which I used for all my prints shown.  The models in the pictures are 50%, 75% and 100% scale.  

I think printing at 50% scale in PETG is best to use as a fidget toy.  It tends to make snapping sounds when opening and closing the backbone, just like at the chiropractor!

Note that there is extended pose-ability.  Meaning that after significant use they will start to lose this ability.  For the tail, if it is not curling up, you can loop it to the side, and it will stay in place (see close-up image of tail to see what I mean).  The best material for the longest life that I found is ASA, then PETG, and lastly PLA.  Strength is in reverse order whereby for ASA esp. you may see breaks caused by printing defects more readily.

*The dorsal fins were made separate primarily for strength based on how it would be printed.  It also allows for a separate color to be used as shown in one image.

TIPS:

1. Especially if printed at 50% scale, carefully work-in (snap) each articulation due to pose-ability design features,
2. For the backbone, you may need to slide in a metal bed scraper and twist to open.  May need to do this on the first few openings.
3. To paint the eyeball (see closeup of orange hear with yellow eyeballs) instead of just the pupil, use acrylic paint on entire eye then rub off the very top layer by wiping across the top with a wet wipe or just your fingertip.
4. If having issues with fusing at the bottom by the build plate, use a raft.
5. The separate parts are friction fit.  If they get loose, use super-glue to bond together.

SAFETY:

Based on how the fins print, they tend to be a bit sharp based on how they print last (note this does not apply to the separately printed dorsal fins).  If little children are playing with these, I would suggest sanding then down some.

I would love to get any feedback so I can improve or modify as needed.