Revo Voron Stealthburner Printhead for V6 nozzles

Structural Hemera heatbreak. 

… And for the two people who haven't immediately closed this page: 
With a Hemera heatbreak and V6-compatible heater block, you can defeat entire point of Revo and make a regular hotend that takes V6 nozzles. This setup is about 2.8mm shorter compared to using it stock with Revo nozzles, so it can't be used without adjustments to the original printhead.  

But… why though?

• Could be a decent standard flow option if you're one of the five people with a spare Revo Voron heatsink and Hemera heatbreak laying around. 
• it's kinda funny in context i guess
• Yeah that's about it. 

Honestly, I don't recommend going out of your way to do this--  I just happened to need this at the time, so I figured I'd upload it for anyone else who does too.  You can get a whole TZ V6 2.0 for less than the cost of just the Revo heatsink, amongst other really good and affordable options that have come out since I originally wrote this description like a year ago.  Plus, getting the nozzle installed properly without accidentally loosening the heatbreak from the heatsink in the process is a pain. 

How to do it:

• Standard folder for the stock Stealthburner experience with just the adjustments detailed above
• Pogo Mod folder if you use falcon14141's pogo mod.
• On initial assembly, I'd recommend cold installing the nozzle before putting the entire printhead together (just enough to keep the heatbreak, hot block, and nozzle from rotating independent of one-another). Hot-tighten as usual once it's in the printer.
• Make sure your heatbreak is firmly installed in the heatsink before you assemble the whole unit; it's difficult to re-tighten it without disassembling once the whole thing is assembled.
• After you install the nozzle, let the whole thing cool and give the nozzle a gentle nudge to check for wiggle.  Make sure it's solid and nothing came loose.
• If the heatbreak came loose from the heatsink and you have enough wire slack, use your nozzle wrench to gently re-tighten the whole assembly until there's no more wiggle.
• Be careful when re-tightening with the pogo mod, there's a real risk of breaking a thermistor or heater wire off the pogo board if you turn it too far.

Disclaimer: 

• As usual, use at your own risk.  What worked for my machine might not for yours.
• I am not an engineer-- at least not the relevant kind.  This has not been CFD tested, and I make no guarantees about its heatsink cooling performance compared to stock.  While I did adjust the airflow path for the hotend fan to reflect the lower hotend position, I do not know how to adjust the hub and blades. 
• Poka Yoke? Never heard of it.
• For what it's worth, I haven't had any heat creep issues in my Enderwire with Prusa's 5v Delta fan for the year that I used it, but YMMV and you should probably use a better fan. In fact, you should probably just use a less janky hotend mount made by people who actually know what they're doing lmao

• Defeated the purpose of Revo
• Lowered the mounting point by 2.8mm to allow the use of a Hemera heatbreak and V6 nozzle
• Adjusted hotend cooling duct to reflect lower mounting position
• Forced users to deal with structural Hemera heatbreaks in 2025.
• Added support for Falcon14141's pogo pin mod