Based on comments received on this model, I've updated it with a Version 2 (the first “non-WIP” version) which contains a few minor modifications:
This modification is now printable on the K1 itself - I've split the design into six pieces that interconnect with dovetail joins. Note that this requires your machine to be fairly well tuned as the tolerances here are only 0.1mm!!
The filament sensor is now moved back outside the chamber on the opposite side that it was originally mounted.
Arranged correctly, I was able to print all six parts on two plates. Below is a screenshot of the two plates in OrcaSlicer.
Plate 01 took around 8 hours to complete and Plate 02 was around 7 hours.
Overview
The default spool mount for the K1 is terrible. It sits behind the machine for some reason, and feeding filament through the sensor is just a nightmare.
To make my life a little easier I've designed this internal spool holder for the K1 which offsets the left panel to provide sufficient space for a roll of filament to fit between the panel and the print bed.
This design accommodates “standard” 200mm x 75mm spools, however with a bit of customization of your own, it can accommodate spools of up to 210mm x 80mm.
Bill of Materials
10 x 40mm M3 screws (FHCS preferred, but anything will do) - These are to replace the existing 4mm M3 FHCS keeping the panel mounted to the printer
4 x 6mm M3 heat-set inserts to mount the filament sensor
2 x M3 x 8mm screws (filament sensor)
2 x M3 x 20mm screws (filament sensor)
3 x 608ZZ bearings
PTFE tube (about 1 meter should do the trick)
A separate 85mm - 90mm PTFE tube (can be cut from the original tube leading to the toolhead which will be replaced with the 1m section)
About a 35cm 3-pin JST-XH 2.54 “extension” for the filament sensor
Tested Print Settings
Material: PETG
Layer Height: 0.2mm
Wall Count: 6
Infill: 10% grid
Installation
Print all six components.
When completed, install heat-set inserts from the outside in the provided locations on the part “V2 - Top Right”
Assemble the six parts. Note: Be careful here as the dovetail joins are somewhat delicate due to their scale. I printed this using PETG as it allows some flexibility to not break the joins.
Remove the panel on the left side of the printer by removing the 10 flat head cap screws holding it in place. I found it much easier to set the printer on it's right-side while doing this. When all screws are removed, you can push the panel from the inside to lift it:
Now place the assembled part down on the frame, making sure that it fits inside the grove of the printer frame. Then place your removed panel back on top and screw it all back together using the new M3x40mm screws:
When replacing the screws for the panel with longer ones, make sure that the screws do NOT protrude inside of the printer chamber! If they do, they will hit the Z gantry blocks!
Place the printer upright and install the filament sensor using the 8mm and 20mm screws. At this point I also installed the short (85mm) PTFE tube through the slot provided. The stock one on the filament sensor is not long enough to reach here:
Remove the clip holding the PTFE tube to the toolhead and remove the tube from the toolhead and the drag chain completely, and replace it with the long 1m tube. I chose to keep mine inside the cable chain:
Finally install the 3-pin extension cable to connect the filament sensor: (Please don't do what I did here - I've already replaced it with a longer cable to alleviate the strain!)
Using a rubber mallet, insert a 608 bearing into each of the printed wheels, place the wheels on the “pegs” of the printed part and install the printed clip to prevent from from jumping off the pegs:
And we're done!
Comments
When printed in PETG, the part will have sufficient “flex” in order to slip the filament spool in and out of the holder with relative ease.
I found the easiest way to feed filament is to hold the spool in your hand and push the filament through the PTFE tube inside the chamber. I only insert the spool into the holder once the filament has reached the toolhead: