Combination Vault - minor tweaks and improvements

This is a great model by @RoccosStuff.  In some of his earlier models he used the spare metal pins for the lock bolts but chose to use 3d printed pins on this.  I think the metal pins looks better and it is easier to print the rack that way (doesn't require supports).  The kit he references had extra so I thought, "Why not?"

Also, once I completed the model, the fence would occasionally get stuck on the roof of the lock box cover.  I had to give the safe a sharp rap to knock it free.  To fix this, I ended up tweaking both the sled and the arm.  The arm now has an opening to take one of the 5x10mm pins from the kit suggested in the original model.  This adds weight to keep it from getting stuck on the roof.

 Go to the original model for the rest of the files - I am including only the four I modified here.

A couple tips on the overall build that has nothing to do with these mods:

1. The spur-gear-14-teeth-for-handle-smaller should be installed with the point on the end at about 2:00 when the locking bolts are fully extended in the locked position.  Hard to tell the orientation from the video.
2. Make sure the large spur-gear-120-and-72 is installed correctly before gluing in the bridges.  The gear teeth on the inside ring should be at the top and bottom.
3. The three wheels in the lock are very low friction and can make it hard to operate.  If you turn the dial too fast, they will keep turning inside the lock after you have stopped at the correct number.  To address this, I added some heavy grease between the wheels and the frame rings.  Make sure only a small amount is used and none moves up the shoulder of the frame rings.  If any grease gets on the pin they will stick and make things worse (ask me how I know  :-). I only glued the frame-ring-core to the frame-lock core once all wheels were installed. 
4. Acrylic plates are cheap and easy to cut and drill.  Print the stl as a drill/cutting guide.  Note:  Not all holes must be drilled.
5. Rather than pressing a 4mm threaded insert into the door-frame, I JB welded 3mm inserts.  It was a long print and I didn't want to risk breaking it.
6. Print the four feet in TPU or similar soft filament.
7. Put something heavy in the back of the safe to keep it from tipping over when the door is open.

I made changes to four parts:

1. altRack-x12 - Removed the printed pin and replaced with a hole to accept the unused 25mm studs in the kit recommended in the original model.
2. altLockBackCover - Added bevels to the mounting screw tabs to avoid the need for supports and add structural rigidity.
3. altArm - Adjusted profile and added an opening to accept one of the 5x10mm pin from the kit as a weight.
4. altSled - Modified the opening so it can be printed cleanly without supports and quantized the dimensions so it can be printed at 0.2mm layer height consistently. (original model was in inches and some of the surfaces did not line up with a 0.2mm layer height - this, I think, cause my prints to be a little grabby)