I fitted the radiators with smart heads and started solving the problem that the head did not close the radiator 100%. I didn't have any retrospective control of the current position of the valve and whether the initial calibration would
result in a correct test (the valve would go through the entire on/off route). At the same time, I didn't know if the mechanical resistance of the valve was too big ☹
You attach this spacer to the radiator and replace the smart head with a classic mechanical head. When tightening/loosening the valve, note the limit states (on/off) of the indicator. Then you install the smart head and turn on its calibration - then you can watch how it behaves at the beginning and then during normal operation.
Note: If the central mandrel is either too long or too short during the initial installation, use a reduction part, which can be enlarged/reduced as needed. The goal is for the mandrel to sit exactly on the valve when this reduction is tightened. Unfortunately, there are a number of different valves on the market and they can vary in stroke length, among other things.
Other material
Print from ABS or ASA - the radiator can reach high temperatures!
The author marked this model as their own original creation.