WordClock 16x8 - 2024

 WordClock 16x8 - 2024

This is the 2024 WordClock variant to the WordClock 16x8 (2023-V2/V3) models adding new functions and features as well as 2 new fonts as V4 and V5 variant. So you can choose between 4 different fonts. =)

This WordClock 2024 variant covers mostly every input I got from users in the last year for the previous models. =)

New functions and options:

• New solder free build option → Yes, you do not need to solder if you like not to do so!
• New design with wider, thicker case as shown in the pictures → more stable on desks.
• New sliding case with less parts that can very easily be opened again if needed.
• The amount of main parts is reduced from 5 to 2 → easier printing with less actions.
• USB-C port for power input. This ensures more stable power with the better USB-A to USB-C cables available to avoid many of your power issues. Who remembers the “Brownout detector” message in the Arduino IDE or continuously rebooting ESP32 boards does know the reason for this change. ;-)
• Two new bigger fonts named as “V4” and “V5” as a new option. The known fonts from WordClock 2023 “V2” and “V3” are available too.
• New ESP32 usage with USB-C with better power options, also to avoid many issues.
• Faster setup through less parts, easy wiring with less tools.
• Better higher intensity usage, because the LED Matrix is directly powered now. No poor dying ESP32 boards anymore due to too bright colors and/or to high intensity values...
• Easy assembly like counting 1,2,3 with detailed descriptions below. It seems more complicated at first, but you will get it easily done or can't you count 1,2,3? ;-)
• Many hints inside the case to help you with the setup.
• FAQ section to most asked questions listed below.

All features and the code are the same as for WordClock 16x8 (2023-V1/V2/V3). So “just“ the design is changed and needed quite a few changes to make this work. It again uses a printed diffuser instead of the piece of paper like 2023-V1 does. That is why V1 was not updated for this model here. This model requires 2 color changes during printing of the front part. More to that later… 

These languages are available in the font variants V2/V3/V4/V5:

1. German 
2. English
3. Dutch
4. Swedish
5. Italian
6. French
7. Swiss German
8. Swabian German
9. Bavarian 
10. Luxembourgish
11. East German
12. Austrian
13. Greek
14. Spanish

Note: New upcoming languages might be added to the 2024 model only.

Hope you like this new variant! =)

Notes:

• For older notes see below…
• 10.11.2024: Added a new script to flash the ESP32 without the need of the Arduino IDE:

• 25.12.2024: Software update V4.0.0 is now available including several new functions:
  • Direct software update without the need of an computer or the Arduino IDE as introduced with WordCalendar 2024 before. Watch this video for details. You will need to select the used ESP32 board after the update to this version to download the correct files for your used ESP32 in future. A new page asking for this information will be shown when you enter the web configuration portal after the update.
  • Faster startup on reboot. 
  • Added a “test mode” in the “Maintenance” section to check all time word output texts faster.
  • Lots of small changes to the web configuration portal to make the device better.
  • To update to this new version from older software versions you will need to use the ESP32 flash script once to get the new software update variant. If you just new installed your WordClock you will get the newest version with the script already. =)
• 05.01.2025: You will now find the ESP32 flash script as a variant of the known MS Windows script for the usage in macOS too. Thanks a lot to John (Rave Props) @JohninNL_289006 for adding this macOS variant! This should make it even more simple to setup the project for macOS users. =)

Here are some pictures in German and some parts in light color for a better view:

As shown the inside of the lid now contains several new elements to fasten the new ESP32 board, reducing the amount of parts drastically and allowing to easily setup your WordClock without any soldering actions. More on that below…

Functions:

• WordClock using a 16x16 LED matrix and regular fonts.
• Super easy print and build, 3 wires to solder or attach solder free in this new version only. 
• Video instructions available to help you with the code and WiFi setup.
• Small print size 180x180 to fit well on the Prusa MK3S+ or any 200x200mm printer. It should fit on the Prusa MINI good as well. 
• The above named language variants are available using the same code for all of them.
• The case can be placed on a desk without a stand or on your wall. 
• The case is provided in 2 main parts in general to hold the 16x16 matrix and the ESP32 board inside.
• The 4 optional printed screws generate a gap between the wall and the case to get the power cable out straight and to get air in the case from the back.
• The diffuser layer to show the LED colors is printed in white PLA with 2 color changes of the front part.
• No supports needed to print all parts. The parts just need to be placed on their flat sides.
• The lid part slides in place into the front part and presses the LED matrix into the holes for each letter.
• Web configuration interface to control the WordClock functions.
• Custom created WiFi manager integration to avoid setting your WiFi credentials manually in the code.
• The from your WiFi router received IP-address is shown as text on the display to inform you about the current value.
• During startup a text for “WIFI” or “WLAN” is shown in cyan color until the WiFi settings were done for the first time. Afterwards blue until the device received a new IP-address then in green color.
• In case the configured time server cannot be reached a red “TIME" text will be shown and the device will restart until it can reach the time server.
• The configuration can be set with an integrated web portal with the ESP32 own host name like “http://esp32-D88998” or via IP-address like "http://192.168.178.50" (depending on your ESP32 hostname and your router settings).
• Operation Mode: "Online Mode" with WiFi usage or in "Offline Mode" without the need of a local WiFi possible. In both cases the internal web configuration portal is available.
• The LED color for the time texts and the background can be configured to a static value.
• Also available is an option to set a random text color every new minute.
• The LED intensity can be set for a day time and optional for a night mode usage. With that a time span can be selected to turn off the LEDs fully or reduce their intensity for night time usage.
• Updates of the software can be done “Over The Air” / “OTA” with the internal web portal as well to avoid connecting the device to Arduino IDE again. See instructions below.
• The in the internal Wifi manager stored settings can be set to default on request to switch to a new WiFi router afterwards.
• The WordClock settings can be set to default as well. WiFi and some other basic settings will be kept.
• In case the WiFi is no longer available the device will reset the WiFi settings automatically after 30 seconds to avoid flashing with Arduino IDE again. Follow the initial WiFi setup again.
• Smart Home environment integration to turn the LED display OFF and ON with HTTP url commands to save some power when e.g. you are not at home. The HTTP commands can be viewed from the web configuration portal. 

Integrated web configuration interface:

This WordClock can be used in "Online Mode" with WiFi usage or in "Offline Mode" without the need of a local WiFi. In both modes you will be able to use an internal configuration portal to configure your WordClock. See pictures below. =)

Online Mode:

Offline Mode:

Setup the code for the WordClock and WiFi setup:

• Follow this video to get used to the usage: 

Code download:

• The script to upload the code can be downloaded from my GitHub repository.
• See the FAQ section too for more details to the code software.

Update the code of a running WordClock:

• Updates can be done “Over The Air” / “OTA” with the internal WordClock web portal.
• You will find a section to get the update without the need of a computer with 2 clicks.

FAQ:

• Q: “Can I use a smaller power supply like 5V/1A or 5V/2A?”
  • A: Do NOT use 5V/2A or even 5V/1A ones to avoid damage to your environment!

• Q: “Why is it not possible to use a USB-C power supply directly?”
  • A: The honest answer is, that it was planned to be used with a USB-C power supply directly, but it simply does not work. Most USB-C power supplies “communicate” with the plugged in device and then turn their power on. This is not possible with the WordClock. So this is why a USB-A power supply with a USB-A-to-USB-C cable is required. You will find 2 very good ones in the parts list.
  • A: There is an advantage to this anyway. Because such USB-A-to-USB-C cables seem to have a better standard, they work much better than the previously used Micro-USB cables. 

• Q: “Can I use my old ESP8266 boards instead of the named ESP32?”
  • A: No ESP8266 usage possible, because of its low specs. It is not compatible too.

• Q: “Why isn’t the circuit done like with the previous models over the USB cable only?”
  • A: That often lead to some poor grilled ESP32 boards when the LED intensity was set to high and too much current was routed through the ESP32 to the LED matrix. That also seems to happen due to user reports often too, when other code sketches like WLED or others were “tested”… After some time or directly depending on the set color and intensity this caused some of these boards to die. As this seems to be an issue for some users and even I never experienced this myself, I wanted to make the circuit better. 
  • A: The 2nd reason is that I wanted to try a solder free variant and so it was even more simple to save these poor little boards from dying on their job. =)

• Q: “Why was the switch from the ”D1 mini ESP32" board done to the new ESP32?"
  • A: The 1st reason is that during the runtime of the previous WordClock models I heard of several problems with these D1 mini boards from users, which mostly I did not face. What I could find on very few of these boards was the “Brownout detector” error message which prevented these boards from booting. Some of them worked for days and even weeks. Then I needed to replace the Micro-USB cable to a shorter one and for any reason then it worked most of the times. A few days later the same board worked with the “old” cable again without any problems.
  • A: The 2nd reason is that the new chosen NodeMCU ESP32 board has a USB-C connector and I had often issues with the old Micro-USB cables and ports on the old ESP32.
  • A: The 3rd reason is that this board can be easily used to reach the solder free variant and is possible to screw to the custom made mounting socket in the lid.
  • A: The 4th reason is that I got slightly better WiFi connection and boot operations with these new boards compared to the old ESP32.
  • A: The 5th and most important reason for this new 2024 model was, that the D1 mini ESP32 cannot be powered without the Micro-USB cable usage. It seams to have a design issue that it cannot be powered from the VIN/5V and a GND pin on its board. I searched many forums and pages to get it working over such a pin connection, but it was not possible. So the new NodeMCU ESP32 will be used here.

• Q: “Where do I need to set the color changes and how are these changes done?”
  • A: See printing instructions below please. You will find a manual and details.
  • A: Consider using Prusa Slicer even for your non-Prusa 3D printer too. =)

• Q: “Do I really need to print with black filament?” 
  • A: Yes, to avoid light shining through to the other letters this is required or lets say at leased it is required as light blocker. You can add other, lighter colors to the first front part layers if you wish to, but you have to have this light blocking black layers. For the matrix part of the front it is mandatory to use black too.

• Q: “Can I use transparent PLA instead of the named white filament for the diffusor?”
  • A: Tests showed that this is not ideal, because such transparent filament will route light to other cells of the matrix that should not be lit at that time or in that color.

• Q: “I cannot read the on the display shown IP-address. What is my IP-address?”
  • A: Just step away 1-2 meters from WordClock during startup to be able to read it.

• Q: “Why is the software not provided as self to compile code to run in Arduino IDE?”
  • A: Although I created scripts for setting up the Arduino IDE, automatically download and install needed libraries and spend a lot of time to give you a setup option as easy as possible, it seems to be still way to complicated for many users. Thats why you have the new script to download and flash the code for you now as precompiled .BIN files now. I had so many messages from users each week that did not (fully) follow the already quiete simple instructions and the only possible way for me is to make this as easy as possible and not provide the more complicated way anymore.
  • A: By giving you the precompiled code you can be sure that this is tested and will work with the named components, which should be a big benefit. =)
  • A: And YES, I know, that other ESP32 boards might not work with these precompiled code files, but I honestly have to say, that this is a ≤5€ or ≤5$ problem and I perform this here as a hobby and cannot support many different ESP32 variants anyway… I guess you will understand this, that I cannot and will not spent more time on this when it can be fixed with buying such a cheap ESP32 fitting to the project.

• Q: “In Offline Mode the from the device created WiFi access point requires a password, which I don’t know. What is this password and does the configuration page open automatically when connecting to this internal access point?”
  • A: “The password is ‘Matrix-16x16’ and in case the configuration page doesn’t open up properly on your device (mostly heard of on Android devices) just connect to the WiFi and then open your browser on ‘http://192.168.4.1’. Once saved to your device the password should be stored and you not need to enter it again anymore. This password was added to make the device more secure for example if you want to use it on your work environment without access to a regular WiFi.”
     

Printing instructions:

• No supports needed for all parts.
• Using a brim was not needed in my tests, because I cleaned my textured sheet with dishwashing liquid carefully with a new sponge and then with isopropanol alcohol again on the printer to make the parts stick really good. If you face problems with adhesion feel free to add a 5mm brim to the front and lid part.
• 0.3 draft profile used. You can print in 0.2, but it was not needed for my printers.
• Textured sheet used:
  • If you use a textured sheet too, let it cool down completely after the print and wait for the part gets loose by itself. Do not pull on it to avoid ripping off the letters! 
  • In my case it takes 45-60 minutes after the print has ended and the part just lays loose on the print bed.
  • Do not touch the print bed and clean it with Isopropanol alcohol before printing.
• The option “Avoid crossing perimeters” was set active for the front parts in Prusa Slicer.
• The 4 screws should be printed with 30-50% infill just in case you need to screw them in a little harder. I could use 15% infill good as well. 
• IMPORTANT: 
  • Two (2) color changes in the front part from black to white and to black again are required at about 1.2mm and 2.4mm height to create the diffuser layer. Why “at about”? Well it depends on your layer height:
    • 0.2mm = Changes at 1.2mm + 2.6mm
    • 0.3mm = Changes at 1.1mm + 2.6mm
  • Color changes are done in this order:
    • 1st color = black = layer 0 to 1.2/1.1mm
    • 2nd color = white = layers 1.3/1.2mm to 2.4/2.6mm
    • 3rd color = black = layers 2.5/2.7mm to the end of the print
  • To read how such a color change is done, you will find a really good article here.
  • If you use the .3MF files the color change is preconfigured for 0.3mm layer height.

Parts needed:

• 1x 16x16 LED matrix (Use this one. The case is made to fit to it only!)
• 1x NodeMCU ESP32 USB-C (Use this one. The case is made to fit to it only!)
• 1x USB power supply 5V / 3A or e.g. the USB-A port from this one (No direct USB-C!)
• 1x USB-A to USB-C cable (5V, 3A) (No direct USB-C!) 
• 1x USB-C port (5V, 3A)
• 3x Wago 221-413 - 3 wire clamps
• 3x Jumper Wire 40x 20cm, Male-Female
• 3x M3x16 screws
• 4x M3x8 screws

Tools needed:

• 1x FDM 3D printer and PLA filament in black and white 
• 1x Wire stripper
• 1x M3 allen key
• 1x side cutters (to cut the cable ties and cables cleaner)
• 4x cable ties
• 1x soldering iron set (if you want to solder)
• 1x 3rd hand (if you want to solder)

Wiring: 

• Connecting the parts for this WordClock is as easy as possible.
• You may need to solder or connect solder free 3 connections only to the ESP32.
• The small holders in the lid can be used for a small cable ties to secure the cables.
• Have a look into the pictures how to arrange the LED matrix in the front part to ensure that the direction of the LEDs is correct.
• In case you want to solder, the only change compared to the solder free variant would be to solder the 3 wires to the ESP instead of using the named plugged cables. Details will not be described here due the connections are the same as for the solder free variant. The Wago clamps would be used in this case too, because they are really handy to use…
• Please check the table which pins are connected for the project as well as the pictures:

Here is a step by step guide how to connect all the cables:

• With the help of the following pictures you will see how to wire the device, easy as 1,2,3:

• Here you see all the required parts. 

• Cut off the middle and lower cable pairs from the matrix to avoid electric short circuits. The cables at „DIN“ have to remain. The result is shown here.
• Add the LED matrix in the orientation as shown. 

• Next strip the 2 USB-C port wires 11mm and push it into its place in the lid. It will click in place with a bit of the force. ;-)
• You will find a 11mm long mark in the case to help you finding the right strip length. See the upper edge in the picture above with the "11".

• Open the 3 Wago clamps and put them into their holders in the lid as shown.
• Remember the 1,2,3 under the clamps as:
  • 1 = red = 5V
  • 2 = black or white = GND
  • 3 = green = DIN

• Add the 2 stripped USB-C port wires to the clamps 1 and 2 as shown and close the clamps on the used slots.

• Add the 3 Female-Male cables like shown to the clamps and close their slots as:
  • 1 = red = 5V
  • 2 = black = GND
  • 3 = green = DIN
• The male pin part of the cable is pushed into the clamps. 

• Add the “female” part of the cables to the ESP32 like shown:
  • VIN = red = 5V
  • GND = black = GND
  • D32 = green = DIN

• Carefully push the ESP32 and the 3 cables with their black posts in to the tight holder part of the lid as shown.
• Route the 3 cables out of the small slots. 
• Secure the ESP32 in place with the 4 M3x8 screws.

• As last part add the with the LED matrix delivered connector to the circuit.
• Do not forget to strip its wires 11mm too. 
• Add the 3 last wires as shown and close the Wago clamps:
  • 1 = red = 5V
  • 2 = white = GND
  • 3 = green = DIN

• Add the USB-C part of the USB-A-to-USB-C cable through its hole in the lid and plug it into the USB-C port like shown. 
• If you followed all instructions carefully, checked them again and check that all clamps are closed. 
• Please add some small cable ties to secure the cables in place. Especially the power cable should be secured in place.
• If you haven't uploaded the code to the board yet, you should perform this action now!

• As last action you have to do is to connect the LED matrix to its connector in the lid.
• Slide the lid carefully together with the front part as shown.
• The lid pushes the matrix down and holds it in place. No tape or glue etc. needed.
• Use the 3 M3x16 screws to fix the lid in place to the front.
• Plug WordClock to its 5V/3A power supply. Follow the video to add WiFi to WordClock.
• Check the function and you finished the WordClock setup.
• Enjoy! =)

Happy printing =)

Older notes:

• 05.05.2024: Release of software version V3.7.0 adding new functions:
  • Active WiFi reconnect in case the WiFi connection got lost during runtime.
• 16.03.2024: Release of software version V3.5.0 to support the new Austrian language layout. It is available now and will support all 4 fonts of the 2024 model. =)
• 26.05.2024: Release of software version V3.8.0 to support the new Greek language layout. It is available now and will support all 4 fonts of the 2024 model.
  •  Note: Most changes done for the model and the code were done by a user (@Stratis_1722606) here. Thanks for your effort!
  • Because I don't understand this language at all, the changes were taken mostly 1:1 and may be corrected later in case I got something wrong. Some words like the usual word for TIME and MINUTES I could not find in his template and might not be displayed like in the other languages. 
  • Hope you like this variant which was really challenging for me to be honest. =) 
• 03.10.2024: Release of software version V3.9.0 to support the new Spanish language layout. It is available now and will support all 4 fonts of the 2024 model: 😎  💃 😁
• 06.10.2024: The automatic script to setup the Arduino IDE and WordClock code made a huge step to make the installation even more easy. All you need to do is choose the WordClock variant 16x8 or 16x16 and the board plus port and hit upload. Check this link and this video for details: 

 Q: “I cannot get the Arduino IDE and required libraries setup to work. What can I do?”

• Q: “I get errors in the Arduino IDE and the code does not compile. What can I do?”
• Q: “I get a compilation error: 'strip' was not declared in this scope. What can I do?”
  • A: Please follow the setup videos for MS Windows or Apple macOS closely and really avoid to download libraries from the Arduino IDE library manager. Everyone that followed these steps reported to get it working without having any problems.
  • A: If you use MS Windows 10/11 use the automatic setup script to make it work. This script will download and install the Arduino IDE and ESP32 driver and all of the required libraries as well as the WordClock code for you. You need to perform some really simple steps after the script as shown in the video. 
  • A: Usually this is the result of not downloading the in the Code.ino on top described libraries. I cannot repeat this more and more: Do not use the library manager in the Arduino IDE itself, because you will download some other libraries which will mostly not work. The WordClock code is tested with the named libraries only. To avoid unnecessary problems and wasting time please download the named ones or use the script above to do so.
  • A: In addition this is often caused when the wrong ESP32 or even an ESP8266 is set.  Please follow the instructions closely or if you don’t like to do so, use the script too. Then set the board to “NodeMCU-32S” and the code will compile.
  • A: Make sure that the “Code.ino” file is in the same folder as the “settings.h” file.

Setup the code for the WordClock:

• Microsoft Windows 10/11:

• Apple macOS:

• WordClock WiFi setup:

• Optional: Automatic Arduino IDE setup script with automatic library and code downloads for MS Windows 10/11: