enXLosure Back Clamps

This is an add-on for Voxel3D_Nederland's enXLosure, to address an issue I found with it during the build.

The enXLosure can be found here:

https://www.printables.com/model/610843-enxlosure-minimalist-and-printable-prusa-xl-enclos

WHY DOES THIS EXIST?

During my build of Voxel3D_Nederland's fantastic enclosure for the XL, I noticed that often when opening the top door the entire assembly would “rack” causing one of the side rails to slide backwards past the frame, and as a result when re-closing the top door it wouldn't line up correctly in the frame.

This resulted in my having manually pull the “slid” side back into alignment with the front.

The solution was to design a pair of two piece clamps that attach to the back perforated peice behind the Nextruders docking area that clamp the enXLosure in place.

However the point at where the clamping occurs happens to coincide with one of the M3 Capscrews that hold the plexiglass panels in, so I tied the clamp in to that as well.

NOTE:

As a result the right and left clamps are NOT the same.   The bases, however are.

You'll need:

4x M3x12 bolts to attach the clamp bases to the perforated back panel
4x M3x3x4.2 or M3x5x4.2 heat set inserts for the clamp bases
4x M3x10 bolts to attach the clamp proper to the bases
2x M3x10 bolts to replace the M3x8 if you want to tie into the plexiglass screw hole for additional stability.

Project File Included:

It's not just the 3MF import, it's actually the output project file.   As a result it's got my filament profiles that will come along for the ride.
 

You'll use 1-4 Colors of PETG (if you want the logo treatment), as my logos are always modeled in rather than painted on.  (This one uses 3).

The reasoning for this is while PS does allow you to overlay SVG's and assign extruders to them you have zero control over the depth that comes along for the ride, and I've found after years of MMU2 work that often a couple layers (especially with high contrast text and whatnot over dark filaments) just doesn't show up well.   As a result I always cut several wall thicknesses deep and provide a backing layer behind that (typically done in white) in order to get the text or logo treatment to adequately “pop”.   


Whether or not you color print it is up to you, just saying that stuff's always cut into all my models (I have a script that does the whole thing for me), but just be aware the “logo backing” objects are really objects even though they don't show up in PS when selected as they're in the model behind the logo and logo surround, so don't delete them unless you want voids in the print.