Perfectly Adequate Arcade Pedal

"Perfection is the enemy of perfectly adequate." 

- Saul Goodman

If you're like me and enjoy the occasional game of Time Crisis, but can't be compelled to spend $250 - $450 dollars for a refurbished original pedal or Sinden replica, and if you don't have the time, talent or sheer dedication to pull off a @Boojakascha approved ultimate pedal, then this might be for you.

Check out the NEW Wireless Version!

All of the fasteners used in this design are "off the shelf" and should be available at any hardware store.  

***Required Parts List***

x1 Micro-switch with roller lever

x2 18mmx1mmx50mm compression springs

x1 M8x50mm hex bolt

x2 M8x75mm hex bolts

x3 M8 flange nuts (any M8 nut is probably fine)

x9 M5x20mm flat head screws (for fastening top plate and cable management)

x9 M5 nuts (for fastening top plate and cable management)

x2 M3x20mm screws (for fastening micro switch)

x2 M3 nuts (for fastening micro switch)

PLA Filament.  I used black and silver metal.

TPU Filament.  I used this.

***OPTIONAL Parts List***

x1 Adruino Micro or Arduino Pro Micro (Do not choose an Arduino Nano!)  Obviously, you can choose whichever micro-controller you'd like.  However, it should be capable of emulating an HID USB device.)  A Raspberry PI Pico could also work. 

x4 M1.6x4mm screws (for mounting Arduino.  A few dabs of hot glue would also likely do the trick.)  Note, the hole pattern is designed for the Arduino Micro only (because that's what I had).  If there is enough demand for it, I'd be happy to make a base for the Raspberry PI Pico or Pro Micro.

x1 Micro USB cable, 6-10 Feet (for connecting Arduino or PI to  arcade/PC/etc.)

x1 Zip tie

***PLA Print Instructions***

1 - Print "1-Base.stl".  I recommend the highest infill you're comfortable with.  100% if you can stomach it.  It will be a long print.  Also, you'll need to enable supports. I recommend the tree style.

2 - Print "2-Lever, 75 Degrees (Shorter Action, Recommended).stl".  Print the provided 70 degree version if you prefer a longer travel on the pedal.  Again, this will require supports.  I recommend the standard style here.

3 - Print "3-Top.stl".  I strongly recommend 100% infill.  You will be stepping on this!

4 - Print "4-Cable Management x2.stl".  These are optional.  However, if you want to wrap up the cable when not in use, 2 of them are necessary.  This part requires a 5mm nut to be inserted mid print.  Print at 2mm layer height, pause at layer 64., insert nut, and resume print.

***TPU Print Instructions***

5 - Print "5-Spring Cap x4 (TPU).stl". 4 of them are necessary.  Technically, these spring caps are optional.  Without them however, the spring coil will rub on the layer lines, causing friction and an unpleasant noise/feeling.

6 - Print "6-Grommet (TPU).stl".  Again, this is technically optional.  It's just a "finishing" piece.

7 - Print "7-Bottom Pads x4 (TPU).stl".  Very optional, but recommended if using with hard flooring.  Just glue them on.

***Assembly Instructions***

Please watch the assembly animation below. I think it will explain the process better than a wall of text.   If still want a wall of text, then please keep scrolling.  

I recommend the following 10-ish simple steps:

1 - Install the TPU spring caps into the lever and base first. Open end up, obviously.

2 - Attach the springs to the lever as shown above. 

3 - Press the 5mm nuts into the lever.  They should stay in place by friction, but if they do not, try using a tiny bit of glue.  (You have a glue stick, right?) Set the assembled lever aside for a moment.  

4 - Attach the micro-switch to the base with the M3 hardware. You may need to bend the terminal down slightly in order to prevent rubbing on the lever.

5 - If using the cable management, attach them now using 2 M5 screws.  Again, the cable management should have been printed with an M5 nut inserted mid-print.  (See PLA printing instructions above.)

6 - If using an Arduino Micro (or equivalent), now is the time to fasten it down using the M1.6 screws.  For the Arduino Micro, ensure that the micro-switch is wired according to this diagram.

7 - Also if using a micro-controller, install the USB cable and TPU finishing grommet.  I recommend a single zip tie to attach to the strain relief pillars.

8 - Attach the lever to the base.  Start with the middle M8 75mm Hex bolt followed by the other M8 75mm and 50mm bolt on each end.

9 - Fasten the three M8 nuts to complete the "hinge".  Finger tight is enough.  Honestly, it's debatable if the nuts are even necessary.  (I'm resisting several easy jokes here.)

10 - Finally, attach the top.  Gently fasten it using the M5 screws.

11 - Almost forgot.  Glue 4 TPU pads to each corner of the bottom.  These are optional, but recommended for hard flooring.

***Considerations***

I do not know what the load limitation of this pedal is.  It will depend on the infill settings that you use and the quality of your layer adhesion.  I recommend that you tread lightly.  Literally.

The Adruino Micro, mounting screws and USB cable are optional.  If you are using an arcade controller such as an I-PAC or equivalent, the micro-switch can just be attached via any 2 conductor cable.

If you decide to install an Arduino Micro, flash the the provided code ("Arduino Micro Code.txt").  When flashed, the "l" key will be sent when the pedal is depressed.  If you wish to change the default key, follow the instructions here:  https://docs.arduino.cc/tutorials/micro/keyboard-press

Flashing the Arduino isn't difficult.  However, if you're new to the Arduino, please visit YouTube.  There are countless videos detailing the flashing process.  

As for setting up a Raspberry PI Pico, I have never had the pleasure.  I'm sure this information is also readily available on YouTube.

Check out the NEW Wireless Version!

Here is the pedal in action: