Formbot Micron+ Supplementary Information And Resources

 Intro

This repository contains unofficial supplementary information and resources for the Formbot Micron Plus kit. 

I've attached attached some files from the Github repo for easy access, they are not changed in anyway and shared with their original license (see https://github.com/PrintersForAnts/Micron )

If you spotted errors or something is unclear just leave a reply or ping me on Voron, Doom or Formbot Discord, name is   .yell.   (dot yell dot)

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Last Change (rest at the bottom

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Printing

General Printing advice

make a folder and then add the files in this order overriding existing

Beltcover

The bakelite spacers have less height then the stock option, this results in the A/B Motors hitting the belt covers. Imho the best solution is to print covers that have less height

• these should work (check!)
• add negative volume for led cable
• iirc m3x8s work but x6 feels better, maybe even countersunk for the rear ones

https://github.com/PrintersForAnts/Micron/tree/main/Mods/Kayos%20Maker/Flat%20Z%20Belt%20Covers/STLs 

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Shopping List

Additional Parts

Replacement Parts

Gucci 

Hardware

Nut Preload in Micron (WIP) Manual

Wrong	Correct
The manual says 4 nuts on the left side top (pink circle)	It should be  2 on each side  5 back  4 front  for the slot on top the lower extrusions Green = put in this many Pink = manual (wrong amount)
Manual has 8 nuts on the right side and only 8 on the front.	it should be: 7 on each side 8 rear (AC Inlet) 9 front (screen)   Green = put in this many Pink = manual (wrong amount)
Consider removing nuts for  ZeroPanels,  they look awesome. i use 3 hinges for ascetics, you can use a 3mm drill bit in reverse to easy lift them off for PLA printing https://github.com/zruncho3d/ZeroPanels https://github.com/adooze/ZeroPanels_for_Stock_V0.2/blob/main/STLs/StealthHandle_StealthMagnets.stl

PSU Switch is flipped

If you attach the switch (lower part) according to the Voron manual the led will be light up permanently even if the printer itself has no power (off position).

Wrong	Correct
Side Note: The wire colors are IEC color coded. Please follow it for your own and other peoples safety

VHB

There is only enough 3mm for sides,rear, top with zero mistakes. Either buy more or use 1mm or none for the front door

Idler

The Z and XY-Joint idler are toothed ones, bearing stacks only in the A/B (front/rear)

Note this is a R1 Gantry and BZI

• https://github.com/PrintersForAnts/Micron/tree/main/R1_Gantry_Beta
• https://github.com/PrintersForAnts/Micron/tree/main/R1_Beta/STLs/Z_Idlers 

TFT35-Display (SPI)

Install

1. Check the cable sitting in the correct connectors and orientation,
2. In /boot/BoardEnv.txt uncomment overlays=tft35_spi 
3. shutdown the OS, remove power (flip switch)
4. fix cable if wrong
5. power on 

Calibration

see this link  https://bttwiki.com/libinput_calibration.html#convert-to-libinput

PCB Klicky on the ebb36

The ebb36 only has 5V for probes so you need to close the solder jumper or dont connect DC+ at all. (Signal & DC- is enough if you dont want a led)

More Infos https://github.com/tanaes/whopping_Voron_mods/tree/main/pcb_klicky

Z Drive Spacers

The kit uses the big metal gear instead of the printed one + deflanged GT2 16T. I've attached the spacers from the github for easy access. They are optional and only help to align everything, if yours warp or are over extruded leave them out.

Printer homes front left, Klicky move out of range X, -Y, Z

Your A/B steppers are swapped, coreXY Vorons home to the rear right. Test it with the following command INSTEAD of G28

# if you have NOT included klicky macros yet
# do so OR add the following to your printer.cfg
# save it and restart
[force_move]
enable_force_move: True

1. Manually put the toolhead in the middle
2. send:  SET_KINEMATIC_POSITION X=90 Y=90 Z=5
3. send:  G91 
4. send:  G0 X5
   1. Does it move the toolhead to the right? if yes proceed
5. send:  G0 Y5
   1. Does it move the gantry to the back?   if yes proceed
6. If any of the moves were diagonally, check
   1. belt path + tension 
   2. grub screw on the motor pulley
7. Proceed tests according to the following graphic, keep going, never revert changes

Z motor and Y would move at the same time 

The 3rd step stick on the manta has dual output (marked by the red tape, its for dual leadscrew setups. 

Sensorless

1. power down, remove power, remove the step sticks
2. set the jumper for the stepper which should use sensorless
   
3. follow this guide
    https://docs.vorondesign.com/community/howto/clee/sensorless_xy_homing.html 
4. but i prefer this macro
   https://raw.githubusercontent.com/kyleisah/EZ-Klipper-Macros/main/Config/Sensorless-Homing.cfg 

"Unable to read tmc uart 'stepper_x' register IFCNT" (or any other, but you usually home X first)

You likely forgot the Motor power jumper, power off the machine, remove the stepper and recheck

Source & Credits: https://docs.vorondesign.com/build/electrical/v2_m8p_wiring.html

• Green – Add Jumper
  • bottom right, is VIN and 24V for this kit
• Red – Remove Jumper
  • unless the ones added for Sensorless

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Where does this part go?

Image		Description
		Solid State Relay (SSR) mounting platform to DIN Rail. The SSR controlls the bed heating.
		Bakelite Isolation Spacer as bed standoff, they go between the Bed extrusion and the bed itself.
Electronics placement in general. (the SSR to HE1 is pretty short, be gentle)
This is a Thermal Fuse, if the bed goes haywire and reach a certain temperature (printed on the fuse) it will pop and disconnect power to the bed.		The bed fuse is fixed on one of the middle holes from the bottom. Be gentle as the bed expands with heat and you dont want the fuse to shatter under the pressure.

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Software

MCU Flash

1. Download the CB1 image https://github.com/bigtreetech/CB1 
2. “burn” it to the SDCard with like the Raspberry Image
   1. Dont use its config option like wifi, it wont work
3. Open the SDCard on you PC
4. Edit system.cfg file
   1. Change WIFI_SSID and WIFI_PASSWD
   2. see my CB1 guide if you dont want to use Wifi as the script is kinda badly written
      https://www.printables.com/model/736220-btt-cb1-customization
5. Edit BoardEnv.txt file
   1. remove the #  infront of #overlays=tft35_spi for the included display
6. Eject the SDCard and put it in the powered off Manta's SOC-Card slot

CAN Setup

Step	Image
power down the pi and flip the power switch off
disconnect the EBB36 physically
make sure to run the system with the CB1 Image, it includes mainsail already https://github.com/bigtreetech/CB1
SSH into the CB1 with Putty or any other ssh client Every command line is run inside this ssh session
――――――――――――――――――――――――――――――――――――――――――― Setup Manta as USB-CAN bridge with Klipper.  Create can0 interface sudo tee /etc/network/interfaces.d/can0 >/dev/null <<-EOF allow-hotplug can0 iface can0 can static bitrate 1000000 up ifconfig can0 txqueuelen 1024 pre-up ip link set can0 type can bitrate 1000000 pre-up ip link set can0 txqueuelen 1024 EOF
Flash Manta with klipper cd ~/klipper make clean make menuconfig see the image -----> Choose USB to CAN bus bridge double check Pins, its PD not PB the bus speed MUST be the same for all devices (1M is good ) make	Menuconfig configure top down & missing options will show up
Locate BOOT & RESET button the the Manta While holding the BOOT button, push RESET, release it, then release BOOT if not already, SSH into the CB1  use lsusb to verify the manta is in DFU Mote flash it (the last part should match the ID from lsusb, if not change it) sudo dfu-util -a 0 -D ~/klipper/out/klipper.bin --dfuse-address 0x08002000:leave -d 0483:df11 sudo ifconfig can0 up
If everything is fine then the command ip addr shows a can0 interface in the state “UP”.If not poweroff (remove power totally) and power on. If it still doesnt work you configured the wrong pins in the menuconfig for the Manta, go back and reflash it. NOTE: The Manta will present itself as CAN Device (with UID) and not as /dev/serial !
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Follow the manual to download katapult  https://github.com/Arksine/katapult  connect the EBB via USB ONLY not the 4pin cable while 24v works you have been warned for USB power mode add the Jumper shown in the image Locate the BOOT and RESET Button as shown in the image
While holding the BOOT button, push RESET, release it, then release BOOT use lsusb to verify the EBB is shown
see image --------> double check Pins, its PB not PD, this time the other way! the bus speed MUST be the same for all devices (1M is good and CB1 default) cd ~/katapult make clean make menuconfig	(configure top down, it will then show the missing options)
make sudo dfu-util -a 0 -D ~/katapult/out/canboot.bin --dfuse-address 0x08000000:force:mass-erase:leave -d 0483:df11
Disconnect USB Remove USB Jumper Add 120R jumper on EBB36 AND Manta
EBB	Manta
cd ~/klipper make clean make menuconfig see image ------> double check, Pins its PB not PD the bus speed MUST be the same for all devices (1M is good and CB1 default)	(configure top down, it will then show the missing options)
make # get UID from the following command # Note that there MUST be 2 entries # one is Klipper, this is the Manta # one is CanBoot, this is the EBB python3 ~/katapult/scripts/flash_can.py -q # flash the EBB with python3 ~/katapult/scripts/flash_can.py -u <UID>
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for pins mcu is the default controller and does not need to be specified. The EBB however needs to and i recommend also prefixing the mcu. Note that I also use boardpins you you likely need to specify the actual pin. [mcu] # Manta canbus_uuid: 8ac34ee54870 [mcu tool0] # EBB36 canbus_uuid: 75e72618a866 ... [fan] pin: tool0:FAN0 [heater_bed] heater_pin: mcu:HE1

Klicky Setup

(1) Software config

I dont like changing variables in the Klicky configuration as its hard to keep track of what changed so i use the power of jinja2 to simply later override variables previouly defined (in the the default config

printer.cfg - Klicky part

attention: the values are for r1 gantry so adjust variable_docklocation_x and variable_docklocation_y

[include ./klicky/klicky-variables.cfg] # load default variables
[gcode_macro _User_Variables]           # override certain variables
variable_max_bed_y:      180
variable_max_bed_x:      180
variable_z_endstop_x:      0
variable_z_endstop_y:      0
variable_docklocation_x:  24.50
variable_docklocation_y: 190
Variable_dockmove_x:      40
Variable_attachmove_x:     0
Variable_attachmove_y:    20
       
[include ./klicky/klicky-macros.cfg]
[include ./klicky/klicky-quad-gantry-level.cfg]

printer.cfg - Probe Config

[stepper_z]
endstop_pin: probe:z_virtual_endstop
....

[probe]
pin: ^tool0:PB9   # note: "tool0" is the [mcu ..] name you defined
                  # with the canbus_uui of the ebb36
y_offset: 26.0
x_offset: 0.0
                  # dont set z_offset in [Probe] but in 
                  # SAVE_CONFIG block at the bottom of the printer.cfg
                  # use something high like 10,
                  # print a large slow square and babystep down
                  # until it looks good, then SAVE_CONFIG from
                  # printer gui
....

#*# <---------------------- SAVE_CONFIG ---------------------->
#*# DO NOT EDIT THIS BLOCK OR BELOW. The contents are auto-generated.
#*#
#*# [probe]
#*# z_offset = 6.885

Verify the endstops again in mainsail

not attached => triggered attached Klicky manually => open attached and switch by hand pressed => triggered

See my  CB1 Customization

https://www.printables.com/model/736220-btt-cb1-customization

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Slicer

Bed Model

Download the bed image with save as

Download the bed movel as a usual STL and configure both in your slicer. (i use Orca)

Orca goodings

Here is a bonus for users with a recent Orca-Slicer version, all printers can now also swap bed types.

Adjust your print start/end code to take advantages if it (adjust the values)

...

{if curr_bed_type=="Textured PEI Plate"}
SET_GCODE_OFFSET Z_ADJUST=-0.02
{endif}

{if ilament_type[initial_extruder]=="ABS"}
SET_GCODE_OFFSET Z_ADJUST=-0.05
{elsif filament_type[initial_extruder]=="ASA"}
SET_GCODE_OFFSET Z_ADJUST=-0.05
{endif}

...

...

{if curr_bed_type=="Textured PEI Plate"}
SET_GCODE_OFFSET Z_ADJUST=+0.02
{endif}

{if ilament_type[initial_extruder]=="ABS"}
SET_GCODE_OFFSET Z_ADJUST=+0.05
{elsif filament_type[initial_extruder]=="ASA"}
SET_GCODE_OFFSET Z_ADJUST=+0.05
{endif}

...

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Archived Fixes

These issues are fixed but i keep them here for early kits, returns or old stock

Swap the middle 2 wires of the Z Motor connectors

if you dont do this klipper will throw emergency shutdown on Z moves.

Wrong	Correct

repin fan/fansplitter OPTIONAL 

It works fine as it is but they mixed the wire colors. This one is for the toolhead.

Red is usually VIN (DC+) and black is DC- which is controlled by the GPIO pin. But they swapped it because the fans them self are swapped. Its a pain to repin them all, just keep in mind to never trust wire colors

misleading	Pinout	Corrected	with supplied fans unswapped

Fix Ghost-touches

Use the lastest official Image https://github.com/bigtreetech/CB1/releases

I'll leave the guide here for people not wanting to scrub their sdcard.

The fix is already merged in their Github but they didnt provide upgrade packages or a new iso. Until this happens you can fix it manually with these precompiled packages provided by freakydude or make them yourself according to their instruction https://github.com/bigtreetech/CB1 

Just a reminder, this is the Internet and I'm a random person.

## ssh to your printer
cd ~

mkdir cb1displaydriver

cd cb1displaydriver

wget https://github.com/freakydude/cb1-os-build/releases/download/prerelease-latest/linux-dtb-current-sun50iw9_2.3.4_arm64.deb

wget https://github.com/freakydude/cb1-os-build/releases/download/prerelease-latest/linux-image-current-sun50iw9_2.3.4_arm64.deb

# If the link do not work update them from here
# https://github.com/freakydude/cb1-os-build/releases/tag/prerelease-latest

sudo dpkg -i linux*

This would go to home (~), create a new folder, download the packages and install them.

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Changelog