Anycubic Kobra Plus Direct Drive Mount II v1.0

I wanted to make a mount that would function as closely as possible as a direct drive would. This is the final version after 7 or 8 designs that felt too awkward to be practical. I saw various existing adapters out there, but I really wanted to be able to put together something using all the original parts of my printer and with a minimum of externally sourced parts. You will only need to source three (3) M3 nylon locknuts, one or two collect lock-clips, along with wire to extend the length of the extruder stepper motor and the filament sensor depending on which version you choose to use. I don't count filament as an externally sourced part.

<*EDIT Dec 7th 2023 - Thanks to a comment by user ggioo a couple of days ago, I was made aware that the Vyper has a slightly different ribbon cable mount. Please use my Vyper-specific mount located at this link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6360400* >

This mount should work on Anycubic's Kobra Plus and Kobra Max models that use the same printhead assembly as shown in the pictures. It also has a built-in chain-link attachment point that is compatible with UncleSash's Anycubic Vyper V2 Kabelschlepp (Chainlink) or its remixes. (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5202027)

If you have a Kobra Plus and choose to go all out and go with the chainlinks, my version of UncleSash's chainlinks and PSU cable split along with my version of the platform mount is available. Once I get home, I'll post how many of each style of chain link is needed to complete the conversion. Here's the link to my version of those 4 parts: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6371038

<*EDIT Dec 12th 2023 - I added an STL that will allow anybody to only need to print a 'Fitment Test' of the mounting without having to print the whole thing. If the Fitment Test piece fits and both holes line up, you should be good to print.* >

Print Settings

Printer Brand:

Anycubic

Printer: 

Kobra

Rafts:

Doesn't Matter

Supports: 

Yes

Resolution:

.20 for the first layer, .15 for the rest

Infill: 

40% Hexagonal

Filament: Overture PLA Matte Navy Blue

Notes:

I used PrusaSlicer with organic supports from the base plate. I would recommend excluding supports from the portion of the adapter that slides onto the printhead carriage assembly's main plate. If you don't exclude, you will be cleaning the supports from it while swearing profusely. This mount uses the original parts from the printer but you will have to source a total of 3 M3 nylon locknuts.

I included two versions: 1 with a filament sensor mount and 1 without. Both versions work best with an overhead spool mount or, at the minimum, an overhead spool guide. The version without the filament sensor mount assumes that you have an alternate mount location for it.

You will need to splice and extend the OE wiring for the extruder stepper motor and also the filament sensor if you choose to use the version that also relocates the filament sensor.

To install the mount, you will need to disconnect the Bowden tube, remove the flat cable, and remove the flat cable's guide from the carriage assembly. Once that is done, the mount can be installed with the following steps:

1 - Slide the mount over the back wall of the carriage assembly and secure it using the original M3 bolts from that location combined with 2 M3 nylon locknuts.

2 - Remove the Bowden tube from the extruder, then carefully unplug the extruder stepper motor. Be careful not to let either part fall and keep the extruder part securely together.

3 - You will need to have approximately 26.5mm of Bowden tube protruding from the top of the top of the carriage assembly.  I suggest that you cut it a bit longer and trim and fit the extruder until everything is properly fitted and sitting vertically.  Make sure that it is firmly inserted into the collet fitted to the hot-end, making sure that it is fully seated up against the nozzle inside.  Use a collet lock or a small zip-tie to secure the collect so that it won't release the tube.  No need to put a collet lock on the extruder's 'out' end.  I would still suggest using a proper collet and insert though.

4 - Slide the extruder assembly into place making sure that the exit side is facing down and the collet slides over the the protruding Bowden tube. The extruder's collet should be barely in contact with the hot-end's collet.

5 - Using the original bolts from the extruder assembly, attach the extruder to the stepper motor using the mount as the support. You may want to orient the stepper motor's plug away from the front to minimize the length needed for its wiring.

6 - Plug the ribbon cable back into the carriage assembly. Plug in the 'extended' stepper motor wire.

7 - If you are using the mount with the filament sensor option, you will need to mount the filament sensor into position. Its original M3 bolt and a M3 nylon locknut will secure it to the mount. Plug in its 'extended' wire. You can also add a small piece of Bowden tube to the inlet of the extruder to close the gap between the filament sensor and the extruder. This makes it easier to feed filament through the assembly.

8 - Use either the original wiring hook loops or zip ties to secure any wiring to the ribbon cable.

9 - Enjoy.

I did not change any of my slicer settings to reflect the change from Bowden tube to direct drive and I found that my prints came out fine and no longer had small & fine issues such as stringing and other related things.

You will need approximately 14.75 meters of filament for the mount without the filament sensor while the mount with the filament sensor will need approximately 16.22 meters of filament.

Category: 3D Printer Accessories