Parametric Tough Box

This parametric box supports an extremely wide range of customization from the Fusion 360 file; just open the “Change Parameters” feature after opening the F3D file. Highlights:

• Height, width, and depth; the lid and bottom can be quite small compared to other alternatives
• Wall count & Nozzle Size (which both feed to automatically recalculate wall thickness inline with slicer settings)
• Overhang angle
• Bolt diameter & length (need something hardcore? try m8 bolts and 8 walls!)

This is designed to be sliced in “Classic” mode, not with Arachne. As you can see below, when in classic mode all of the latch supports and ridges are printed with just wall maneuvers very efficiently. Helps to avoid a bunch of extra fill or infill moves. For tall boxes, this can help to speed up the print and increase the quality. 

This technique even works up to some absolutely BONKERS wall widths:

Much time was spent ensuring that the walls are always of a constant horizontal thickness, keeping each printed layer is always the same number of walls. This is harder than you think! Traditionally something like the “shell” operation makes the width consistent perpendicular to the surface; so an angled surface like the overhangs would be wider on the z plane. Making the box shape with overhangs and lips remain (mostly) consistent, especially accounting for the interior chamfer, is a bit tricky.

The longer hinge and latch ribs allow this box to stand on any edge, so it's easier to stack a few of these sideways. This comes in handy for making large, but thin, boxes for stuff like tool storage.

Text embedding with modern slicers and a multi-material printer make for great permanent labeling of the box.

Hopefully I haven't missed too many edge cases, but as with any parametric model if you tweak things far enough, Fusion will explode the solid bodies into a weird symphony of crazy.

Shout out to Rugged Box (Parametric) which heavily influenced my design.

Printing Tips

1. While I have made boxes with 2 walls, do be careful as this reduces the width of the latch giving you less plastic to thread into. I haven't had a problem so far, but it's pretty thin.
    
2. The top can be as small as 12mm and the bottom 10mm, but when the bottom starts getting that small, you'll want to edit the sketch that creates the latches in order to shorten the portion which sticks down, otherwise it will extend beyond the bottom of the bottom surface making the box wobble or open unintentionally
    
3. Go to “per object” settings and change the hinges to print with Arachne mode and tons of walls.
    

Changelog

v3

• Separated the rib and hinge/latch offsets by adding hinge_offset (used to be based on  rib_offset)

v2

• Changed gasket space to accommodate 1.75mm TPU filament; no need to "print" the gasket, just cut some raw TPU filament to length and insert it. A quick test showed no water intrusion (plus, these really like to float!)
• Added parameter bolt_head_diameter_gap to allow for even further height shrinkage (helps when going to 10mm top/bottom)
• Added parameter latch_lever_length to shorten/lengthen the latch lever (on shallow bottom settings, latch lever would sometimes stick out beyond the bottom of the box)