2+ Spools Modular Filament Roller Tray for Printing Drybox

I liked the simplicity of the original model, and how it fit inside the Ezystorage box I already had! Sadly, was frustrated by the need to disassemble it to swap rolls. To fix that, I remixed it to be a set of rollers that the filament spool rests on, allowing you to easily swap rolls when needed, change from through-spool bars to bearing-supported rolling rests.

Recently picked up the same 18 qt. ezy storage box from Menards, and wanted to make a dry-box from it, and found this model. In printing it, I found trying to put the spools on the bars was hard to do, and changing spools would probably be harder. I wanted to be able to place the spools in the box and not fidget with the bars.

for 4 spaces You will need to print:

• 8 bearing rollers
• 8 roller bars
• 3 side A, and 2 side B
• OR 2 side A and 3 side B
• 4 feet
• 1 bearing press ring

(for more slots, just print more sides/bars/rollers, switching between A and B sides to line up the roller bars)

you'll also need four 608-style bearings per space

To assemble a roller, place a bearing on top of the press ring, and press a roller tube over it, seating the bearing into the tube with a friction fit. Then, insert a roller bar through the bearing on the same side, using the notch, and on the other side, slide a second bearing over the notch and use the press ring to push the bearing into the other side of the tube.

Once the whole kit is assembled, it fits nicely in the bottom of the tub, and I found that having the filament exit the side of the box, near the bottom of the spool/roller works best. I am using a press-fit fitting and PTFE tubing to route the filament, but you can use your preferred method

Overall, I'm happy with the remix, as I can just set the spools onto the rollers, and they roll smoothly. Right now I am using using 1 exit, and swapping spools into that spot as needed.

One thing to note. For the roller tubes, be sure to cut/sand off any bumps or bulges from the printing process, as that would create extra tension needed for a spool to get over them.

I used Orca slicer and the negative modifier tool to do the modifications.

•  I cut the sides down, leaving the top and the bottom, and placed a copy of the top at the end of each side of the bottom, making spaces for 2 bars to mount per section.
•  Then I cut a copy of that to make a hexagonal shape to help hold the spool.
•  I cut a corner off the spool bar, so a 608 bearing can fit inside it.
• Then added the bearing roller guide STL from this make: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3238988 and stretched it to 69mm on the Z to cover the width of a section.
• and another copy of it, but shrunk it to 22mm on the X and Y, same size as a 608 bearing, to help press the bearing into the tube evenly.

To assemble