Arc Reactor with Base Remix

This is a remix of aelkaim Arc Reactor. It has a base and houses an ESP D1Mini.
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updated January 13, 2024

Description

PDF

Overview

Requirements

Soldering iron and the ability to solder small wires and components
Basic understanding of the ESP platform or the willingness to learn from YouTube
Basic understanding of LED wiring and using switches.


Print from the original model

NOTE - I've included the original model files on this remix for your convenience. Everything required to build this remix is in the files section, so you don't have to swap between pages.

01_-_Crystal_Ring.stl
04_-_Upper_grid.stl
05_-_Lower_Grid_and_caps.stl
05_-_B_-_My_Caps.stl

05_-_B_-_My_Caps.stl will go on the back side of this remixed model to allow caps all the way around to wrap the wire.

 

Printing Instructions

Part Orientation

I did not take the time to set the parts all correctly for printing. Please make sure you orient them correctly for printing.


Print with 100% infill

01_-_Crystal_Ring.stl
Arc_Center_Front
Arc_Center_Rear

Print with Supports
Arc_LED_Ring
05_-_B_-_My_Caps.stl
05_-_Lower_Grid_and_caps.stl
Arc_Center_Front.stl - I printed the supports on the inside to keep the front as clean as possible.

Everything else..
Everything else is really up to you. I do however, pretty much default to using three perimeters to add some strength.

Hardware, Electronics, and Software

Copper Wire: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BLTPQ3CX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

3x M3x20mm screws: https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-M3x20mm-Button-Socket-Screw/dp/B01C3KUW4I/ref=sr_1_3?crid=204Y7R3XKSTZT&keywords=m3x20mm+screws&qid=1705183055&s=industrial&sprefix=m3x20%2Cindustrial%2C239&sr=1-3

1x M3x55: https://www.amazon.com/XunLiu-Grade-Alloy-Socket-Screws/dp/B07Q22RVMJ/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1WVSCMK6QTSGT&keywords=m3x55&qid=1705183778&sprefix=m3x55%2Caps%2C209&sr=8-3&th=1

1x M3 Nylon Hex Lock Nut: https://www.amazon.com/100Pcs-Stainless-Self-Lock-Inserted-Clinching/dp/B075ZZW7VL/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3SWQ40BMTLPD0&keywords=m3+nylock+nuts&qid=1705183814&sprefix=m3+nilock%2Caps%2C183&sr=8-3

¾ #6 Wood Screws: https://www.amazon.com/Flat-Head-Coated-Phillips-Screws/dp/B07B5VSFXJ/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=12VHIH2B7AY6R&keywords=3%2F4+x6+wood+screw+sprax&qid=1701640434&sprefix=3%2F4+x6+wood+screw+sprax%2Caps%2C125&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1

1x 10mm Push Button Latching Switch: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XT6K5B8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

LED Cable or 4-Conductor Wire: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082FGJN7G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

WeMos D1 Mini/Clone: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BHW2X82K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

Addressable LED Pixels: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DC0J0WS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

USB C Charger - These always worked fine for me, but really if you have any old phone charger lying around, it should work fine: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B097MVXSQ5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Software - WLED: https://install.wled.me/

I used WLED for this project; you can set up the ring and the center sections on their own channels to allow different effects. If you are unfamiliar with WLED/Address LEDs, I'd highly suggest watching some YouTube videos on the subject. There are many videos for using ESPs and WLED to drive addressable LEDs.

 

Building Instructions

The LED will be a tight fit in the ring. There wasn't a lot of room. I had to file/sand the sides down to make them fit. 

The same copper wire used for the outside coils can used to connect the LEDs. Just ensure you cut the data wires between the LEDS, or they will not work. It cannot be one continuous wire. This only applies to the data line; the positive and negative can be continuous.

Once the LEDs are in place and tested, preferably. I added some hot glue over each LED to ensure they stay in place.

The Arc_LED_Ring_Cap can fit into place to cover up the LEDs and wiring.

The ring assembly can then be glued into place onto “01_-_Crystal_Ring” I'd suggest lining the LEDs behind the coil caps. This will diffuse the LEDs.

LEDs can be hot glued into “Arc_Center_Rear” I personally used black to print this part and black hot glue so you cannot see it from behind.

If you are following along 100%. The 4-conductor cable can be used to drive the ring and the center with two different channels. Red, Black, Green, and Blue wires are normal. Red and Black for power, Green and Blue for data. Use one of the green or blue wires to drive the data line for each section. Example: Green for the outer Crystal ring and Blue for the center.  

The arm that holds the Arc Reactor has a passage for the LED cable to pass from the back down into the base.

I glued down the D1 Mini with some hot glue once it was in place.

Switch - The D1 Mini will have a 5v supply pin. Run that pin from the D1 mini to one side of the switch. The other side of the switch will connect to the 5v pin on your LED ring. CAUTION! You need to be quick when soldering the switch, or you will melt it down, and it will not work!

For most wiring, if you do not know, again, I suggest watching some YouTube videos on WLED; there are tons of Tubers that walk you through that process step by step.

The M3x55 is to connect the back arm to the Arc mount. The arm has a cutout to hold the Nylon Hex Lock Nut in place.

Wood screws are used to connect the majority of the print together. Anything that has a chamfer for a screw hole is using the above wood screws.

The three M3x20s are used to connect the center sections together per the original model.

 

That should be it!! I hope you enjoy this remix. If you do make this, I'd hear from you and see some pictures of the build! 

 

Tags



Model origin

The author remixed this model.

Differences of the remix compared to the original

  • Redesigned center sections to allow new LED ring
  • Rear ring that houses the addresses LEDs and a cap that covers the wires
  • The rear ring allows for a second set of “caps” This allows you to wrap the copper wire all the way around the model with a clean finished look.
  • Added a stand that holds a WeMos D1 Mini or D1 Mini Clone and holds the Arc Reactor. Great if you want to place this on a shelf or desk.

License