Multicolor / Twotone Basic Board Cover - NO MMU! - Original Prusa Enclosure

I wanted the text and the buttons to be more visible, as I always had a hard time finding the buttons in the evening when there's just the enclosure light turned on.

I wanted to do it with two different colors along with the black base color, and without the need for a MMU (as I don't have one).

You basically add several manual color changes at the respective layers where needed and then modify the G-Code, by moving the color change to where you want it and add additional ones by hand where necessary.

I made G-Codes for MK4 and MK3S/+ for multicolor and two tone prints.

Multicolor:

• 1st color change at z0,80 after permimeter → change to color #1 (e.g. white)
• 2nd color change at z0,95 after layer change → change to color base (e.g. black)
• 3rd color change at z0,95 after permimeter → change to color #1 (e.g. white)
• 4th color change at z1,10 after layer change → change to color base (e.g. black)
• 5th color change at z1,10 after permimeter → change to color #2 (e.g. orange)
• 6th color change at z1,25 after layer change → change to color base (e.g. black)
• 7th color change at z1,25 after permimeter → change to color #2 (e.g. orange)
• 8th color change at z1,40 after layer change → change to color base (e.g. black)

Twotone:

• 1st color change at z0,80 after permimeter → change to color #1 (e.g. orange)
• 2nd color change at z1,10 after layer change → change to color base (e.g. black)
• 3rd color change at z1,10 after permimeter → change to color #1 (e.g. orange)
• 4th color change at z1,40 after layer change → change to color base (e.g. black)
• 5th color change at z1,40 after permimeter → change to color #2 (e.g. orange)
• 6th color change at z1,70 after layer change → change to color base (e.g. black)

During color changes you have plenty of time to check the print for strings or blobs and can clean them, also give your nozzle a soft wipe during the color changes to keep it clean, just be carefull to not move the printhead or printbed during this, or you'll end up with a layer shift.

The color changing fun starts around 10 minutes into the print, then it's just switching colors back and forth for a couple of minutes and after the last color change you can just let it run until it's finished.

Don't let manual color changes scare you, it's 100% doable and not that hard :-)

Who needs a MMU2/3 ;-)

• added multiple manual color changes
• 3 Perimeters to prevent color bleed at chamfer
• 0,15 layer height for multicolor print (you need at least one solid layer on top of the bridge infill to significantly reduce color bleed from the color of the next layer)