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NSK-X Foam Dart Blaster

A select fire, Talon-fed, solenoid driven, high FPS flywheeler carbine using no complex electronics or Arduino.
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updated December 6, 2024

Description

PDF

UPDATE 12/6/24: HW kits and completed blasters now available through GTCCreation.

UPDATE 2/25/24: Updated flywheel cage with tighter motor slots (thanks to Chance for the dimensions) to improve dart accuracy and reduce barrel strikes. Updated 3D printing section to clarify print orientation.

UPDATE 2/15/24: Updated barrel part to include slot to reduce barrel drag. Updated BCAR barrels to with the slot, improved tolerances, and better dimensions. 

UPDATE 2/14/24: Updated description with “Other NSK-X Files and Accessories” section.

UPDATE 2/2/24: Updated description with recommended battery. This is only good for certain setups, so check your motor amperage draw and calculate the max draw of the battery using the C rating multiplied by the capacity in amp hours!

 

HW KITS AND COMPLETED BLASTERS NOW AVAILABLE THROUGH GTCCREATION! 

Grey over at GTCCreation runs an Etsy store. He was a beta tester for the NSK-X, and knows the ins and outs of the platform. I have licensed the design to him, so HW kits and completed blasters are now available!

Completed Blasters

HW Kits

 

BLASTER OVERVIEW

The NSK-X is a fully custom select fire, Talon-fed, solenoid driven, nightingale flywheel powered blaster with an integral collapsing stock. It requires no Arduinos or programming to build, relying on an off the shelf relay to drive the solenoid in full-auto mode and another off the shelf automotive relay to actuate the flywheel motors. It utilizes the same lower receiver parts as the NSP-1k but can achieve way higher FPS. Certain setups have achieved up to 165 FPS in testing.

FPS DATA FROM TESTED MOTOR/FLYWHEEL SETUPS (with Worker Gen 3 HE darts)
FPSMOTORSFLYWHEELS
155

1st Stage: OOD Loki 130 3S

2nd Stage: OOD Loki 130 3S

1st Stage: Worker Nightingale Flywheels

2nd Stage: Worker Nightingale Flywheels

175

1st Stage: OOD Fang ReVAMPed 130 2S (overvolted)

2nd Stage: OOD Loki 130 3S

1st Stage: BB Baby Banshees (19.8mm)

2nd Stage: BB Baby Banshees (19.8mm)

?

1st Stage: OOD Kraken 130 3S

2nd Stage: OOD Loki 130 3S

1st Stage: Worker Nightingale Flywheels

2nd Stage: Worker Nightingale Flywheels

?

1st Stage: OOD Kraken 130 3S

2nd Stage: OOD Kraken 130 3S

1st Stage: Worker Nightingale Flywheels

2nd Stage: Worker Nightingale Flywheels

?

1st Stage: 

2nd Stage: 

1st Stage: 

2nd Stage: 

(This spreadsheet is a WIP. FPS readings and setups will be added as data becomes available.)

The battery tray measures 94mm x 36mm x 24mm, and can fit quite a few different LiPo batteries. Please follow all rules when using LiPo batteries, and do not put an under-rated battery in this blaster; calculate how many amps your blaster will draw (this varies on your motor choice) and choose an adequately rated battery. I am not responsible for any damages or fires that occur due to misuse or abuse of LiPo batteries when operating this blaster.

A suggested battery can be found here: https://a.co/d/hASXXr1 (note, this 850mah LiPo is only good for certain setups, so check your motor amperage draw and calculate the max draw of the battery using the C rating multiplied by the capacity in amp hours!)

It has multiple parts that can be easily swapped out to customize the blaster, and I have included STEP files as well so you can easily design your own attachments!

THIS BLASTER COMES DEFAULT AS LEFT HANDED. (cause, well, i'm left handed…) FOR RIGHT HANDED USERS, PLEASE PRINT THE RIGHT HANDED VERSIONS OF THE LOWER RECEIVER HALVES AND PAY ATTENTION TO THE WARNING IN THE BUILD GUIDE!

 

TOOLS REQUIRED

All you really need to build this blaster is a set of metric hex keys, a soldering iron, some cutting pliers, and a decently-tuned 3D printer that has a 220x220mm bed (so basically any Ender 3 class of printer). However, due to this being a 3D printed blaster, you may need to sand and trim certain pieces. A recommended set of tools is listed below:

  • Cutting pliers
  • Metric hex keys
  • Soldering iron
  • Solder
  • Wire stripper
  • 3D printer with a 220x220x250mm print volume
  • Heat set insert tools for your soldering iron
  • Drill and metric drill bits
  • Dremel with cutoff tool or hacksaw

If you purchase the linked heat set inserts, the kit will come with some tips that should fit certain soldering irons. Using them will make installing the heat set inserts way easier; trust me, you don't want to have to deal with crooked inserts.

 

HARDWARE

The NSK-X requires very little in terms of specialized hardware; it uses readily available metric fasteners and heat-set inserts, which you can find on Amazon using the links in the included build guide's parts list. The springs used in this build are from a spring kit I got at Home Depot; I give approximate necessary dimensions for springs in the build guide's parts list if you don't have a Home Depot near you. The stock bars are also made from easily available ⅛” x ½” aluminum bar, with drilling and cutting guides supplied in the files. 

 

ASSEMBLY

The included build guide will guide you through assembly of this blaster. The build guide is a WIP, so if you have any suggestions or find any typos, please contact me. 

Certain parts may require glue where it is not specified; for example, the relay brackets have a tendency to not click in perfectly, and may need to be glued to the relay.

Wiring the relay backwards is a common issue; if you do, the relay won't work, and it will fire in semi-auto no matter the position of your selector switch. This means you need to resolder your wires the other way around.

 

3D PRINTING

This will take you about 4 days of printer runtime and about 2kg of filament. I have grouped the files by color. Please print orange parts in orange and the rest of the parts in brighter colors; this blaster can be mistaken as a firearm if printed in dark colors!

A majority of the parts are able to be printed without supports, however certain parts will require support and may require a brim. This entire blaster is designed to be printed with a 0.2mm layer height.

Most parts have an obvious flat spot or orientation for printing; however, some are less obvious. The upper receiver parts and rear trunnion should be printed with the barrel axis parallel to the Z-axis. The flywheel cage should be printed with the top on the build plate. The lower receiver halves should be printed with the large flat side on the build plate.

Below is the recommended print settings for each part:

  • ALL SECONDARY COLOR PARTS:
    • 4 walls
    • Octet infill pattern
    • 50% infill density
  • ALL PRIMARY COLOR PARTS:
    • 4 walls
    • Triangle infill pattern
    • 30% infill density
  • MAGAZINE DETENT, TRIGGER, PUSHER HEAD, FLYWHEEL CAGE, STOCK OVERTRAVEL STOP:
    • 8 walls
    • Lines infill pattern
    • 100% infill density
  • RELAY BRACKETS, BARREL, GRIP STRENGTHENER:
    • 3 walls
    • Octet infill pattern
    • 30% infill density

 

ACCESSORIES, REFERENCES, AND EXPERIMENTAL PARTS

I have included STEP files for the barrel and the stock bar covers to make it easier to design alternate parts!

The barrel has an outer diameter of 19mm, with the intention of being compatible with Worker branded muzzle devices. Please note that due to the clearance between the barrel and the receiver, however, that not all muzzle accessories will fit.

Optional accessories and experimental parts:

  • Pusher head with heat set insert
    • The pusher head was originally designed to use a 6-32 heat set insert. However, due to the fact that not all heat set inserts are alike in dimensions, I designed the released pusher head to utilize the nut that comes with the solenoid. I use this variant of the pusher head, but I am not sure of what 6-32 heat set insert these are. I am pretty sure they're from Mcmaster Carr, but its been years since I sourced these, so I honestly have no clue. The file is included anyways, though!
  • BCAR barrels
    • There are also BCAR barrels available, with 0, 5, 8, and 10 degree versions. These all need 9x F683ZZ bearings and 9x M3x10mm BHCS. Print at the smallest layer height you are able to; the accuracy and quality of your print will directly affect how well your BCAR functions. To prevent the battery from potentially contacting the bearings, a special extended battery tray has been included; however, this does make the battery compartment a bit smaller.

Other NSK-X Files and Accessories:

 

 

 

THANKS TO THE BETA TESTERS!

  • Delta_
  • Chance
  • Grey_the_Color
  • SuperStressed
  • Zoomed_Out_Tahova

 

SUGGESTIONS, QUESTIONS, OR ISSUES? CONTACT ME!

I can be found on Reddit and Discord, but I am most active on Discord. I can be found on the /r/Nerf Discord server, but if you need, you can DM me. If you do make this blaster, I'd love to know!

My Discord username is: @brooklyn_tony198

My Reddit username is: u/BrooklynTony198

Please note that I will generally not be accepting friend requests for DMs; to DM me on Discord, please join the /r/Nerf Discord server first and DM me through there.

IF YOU WANT TO SELL HARDWARE KITS OR PRINTED COMPONENTS OF THIS BLASTER, PLEASE CONTACT ME FIRST.

 

NONE of my files are to be used or sold by Frontline Foam, by downloading my files, you agree that you are not Frontline Foam and/or related to Frontline Foam or Derrikk Sun.

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The author marked this model as their own original creation.

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