Articulated Octopus

I designed an articulating octopus before.  Based on feedback, I wanted to make it more robust so I improved my design.  But it was an initial design and could not be made on the small side, so I came up with a design that now can be both small and large.

My daughter liked the original octopus I designed but wanted a floppy key chain. So I have made some for her at 50% scale (use 100% infill) and it is perfect for a 1-1/8" snap together key ring.

Improvements/mods:

100% PIP. What I really like now is that the octopus' beak is a separate piece so doesn't need supports.  For these who still want the beak integrated, that design is included and so you need supports for the beak.

With the pictures I attached, I show multiple options:

1- full octopus with beak integrated but supported beak.

2-segmented octopus with integrated beak, and

3-octopus head with separate unsupported PIP beak and octopus head with mating cavity for insertion.

PETG makes it really robust and appears to be log term fully poseable!

At 40% scale it starts to have issues based on my experience while developing it with different 3d printers and filaments.  The 40% scale or less parts would be more ornamental.

You can print it all at once, but I recommend printing it as components and glueing together.  As always, I recommend Loctite 414 cyanoacrylate.  It dries strong, clear, and a little shiny (no bloom). Because of a tighter fit, the beak usually pops in (no glue needed). If the beak goes in tilted or not seated fully, use a small instrument to push on the edges of the beak and not on the beak inself. 

To put acrylic paint on eyes, you can always paint the raised pupil in the middle of the eye.  But I think it looks better if you fill the eyes with paint and then rub off top layer with a wet wipe until the pupil is exposed.

3D Printing Tips:

1. I highly suggest to use a raft for the best bottom detail.  If you do use a raft, to remove, don't flex the whole raft as it can break/damage the part.  Try working in from one edge and part should come off nicely (especially if use silk PLA for the highlighted suckers on the bottom.
2. I recommend not to use silk filament for the main body or beak as it does not have the integrity of a plain PLA.