Another Jagdpanther Tank - 1/20 scale

Calling this done.

I guess if you make a rolling model you have to motorize it and add an UNO to control it. So I took the Panther chassis I did and modified it to hold an UNO, a motor controller and some 12v motors. Then modified the body to a Jagdpanther to give more room for the electronics. Guessing it might have been better to go the direct drive route, but wanted to play with a ring and pinion gear, so this is what I came up with.

It does not have to be motorized just replace the half axles with a solid axle and don't bother with the rest. It is still makes a decent rolling model. All parts are printed, but needs some epoxy to assemble.

Parts Inventory

Wheel

Lock - 20

Idler - 2

Wide - 8

Narrow - 8

Frame

Front - 1

Back - 1

Connector - 2

Suspension

Holder - 8

EndBlock - 2

AxleSpacer - 20

ArmSpacer - 20

ArmRS - 8

ArmLS - 8

Drive

Sprocket Assem - 2

Guard - 2

Half Axle - 2

Holder - 1

Ring Gear - 2

Pinion Gear - 2

Track Tensioner - 2

M6 Nut - 2 print XY 110%, Z 100%

Track Thin - 110

Motor Mount - 1

Plate

Top Front - 1

Top Back - 1

Front Frame Low - 1

Front Frame Up - 1

Frame Back - 1

Back Panel - 1

Tank Top - 1

Gun

Gun Mount - 1

Mantlet - 1

Gun - 1

Tank Various Items

Exhaust - 1

Tow Fender RS - 1

Tow Fender LS - 1

Track Bracket - 2

Skirt Bracket - 2

Fender fill - 2 place between skirt bracket and fender.

Side Skirt - 10

Rear Case - 2

Kit - 1

Decor Back - 1

MG - 1

Print Settings

Printer Brand:

Creality

Printer:

Ender 3

Rafts:

No

Supports:

Yes

Resolution:

Varied

Filament: Varied PLA+ Post-Printing =============

1. Glue frame pieces together using the two frame connectors for added support.

2. Glue Suspension arm holders and end blocks into frame. Use suspension arms to hold them in the correct position until glue sets. I found cleaning up the holes with a 1/4" round file smoothed them out and made assembly easier.

3. install suspension arms making sure to get the left and right on correct sides use a 1mm spacer on the outside of each arm. Arm should tilt forward at about 45 degrees and the holes inside the frame should be level. Thread your favorite filament through the holes inside to hold arm in place and correct angle on each side including the end blocks. I used a nylon filament, but thinking something like a fast print TPU which is more pliant but still fairly stiff would allow the suspension more travel.

4. Glue front lower plate on frame.

5. Glue drive guard to frame. Use the axles through to hole in the frame to help locate them in place. Use can also glue the drive holder centered on the lower front plate at this time if you want to use the half axles and the pinion and ring gear. If not you can use the solid axle from the panther project to hold everything which is easier.

6. Install wheels alternating thin and wide sets. Use a 4mm spacer between suspension arm and wheel. Some dry lubricant would help with rolling highly suggested if you are motorizing it. Secure with wheel locks.

7. Install drive sprockets on solid axle. I used 3-1mm spacer and 1-4 mm spacer to center and align with wheels. Secure with a wheel lock. Or install the ring gear on the half axle center in the pocket on the lower front plate. It must be glued to the axle to prevent it from shifting. Then glue the drive sprocket to the half axle using spacers to keep it centered with the wheels for the track.

8. Install track tensioner and idler wheel, initially secure with M6 nut. Later can be secured with a drop of glue once tread is installed and tensioned to your satisfaction.

9. Glue exhaust into back plate

10. Glue the Front upper plate to the Front top plate. I use the frame to help locate them. and did not glue the Front upper plate to the front lower plate so I can slide the body off the frame later. Then glue the Plate back panel to the Front top plate as well. Glue the Top onto the Top plate to add the hatches...

11. Glue the front fenders and tow points to fron upper plate.

12. Glue the Back plate to the Back top plate. Again I use the frame to hold them in position until the glue sets but did not glue them to the frame. I can slide the rear section off the frame backward and front section off the frame forward.

13. Snap the mantlet onto the gun mount. Slide the gun into the mantlet. Slide the gun mount into the Front upper plate. Which can be glued in place if desired.

14. Install idler wheel, use 2-4mm spacers on each to center with other wheels. Secure with wheel lock.

15. Assemble and install tread. Wheels and sprockets must align with each other using spacers provided to center tread properly. Use pieces of filament to link each tread piece together. I ended up with 51 per side. Loop tread around sprocket and wheels secure with one final piece of filament. Tension by rotating the tensioner to desired position/look. Secure tensioner by tightening bolt and a drop of glue.

16. Add more decor to exterior if desired. There are tread brackets to hang spare tread on the body, there is cover sheets for the back top plate with hatches and vents, there is a side skirt bracket and plates to add to the sides, there are storage cases for the back, a barrel for the mg port, or whatever you wish to add.

FYI, I left the front and rear body sections removable to access batteries and UNO inside. I used a DC 12V Gear Box Reversible High Torque Reduction Electric Motor 15~200RPM Outer Diameter 20MM for the motors. They fit the motor mount I designed and the pinion gear fits the output shaft on the motors.

Hopefully this helps.