The 100 Tank

**UPDATE**

I have redesigned the top frame. The changed parts are in the “top frame v2” folder. The redesign had the following design goals:

• Make the Tank printable on itself by reducing the z height needed to print the top frame corners. (untested)
• Lower the motor mounts to reduce the distance of the pulleys from the motors. This appears to have fixed artifacts I was getting on the diagonal driven by the left motor, which had the furthest distance of the pulley from the motor.
• Make motor installation simpler with access holes for all screws
• Provisions for aux cooling (untested)
• Change the motor cooling fans to blow instead of suck.
• Shorten the gantry towers to reduce the length of their moment arm (only ended up being a ~2mm reduction though). Note that the Y rods were raised by this amount to keep the toolhead at the same Z height, so other gantries might raise your nozzle slightly.

The gates gantry in the folder is designed to be used with the tensioner from https://www.printables.com/model/781510-the-100-rigid-gantry and the corresponding gates toolhead carriage from that page or from https://www.printables.com/model/844355-the-100-modular-cpap-toolhead.

Note that you will need to mirror the frame corners in the slicer to print the right side.

Intro

I built a The 100 Extended Edition and had bed wobble issues, so I decided to mod the base v1.1 from scratch to add an Ender 3 sized bed and added triple independent lead screws. The design reuses a lot of the parts I already had for that build.

I also added side bracing and kept the base v1.1 print height to address frame flexing issues, and active motor cooling through enlarged motor mount sidewalls.

So far I have achieved a 4 min 28 sec speed benchy.

Currently there is no electrical mounting as I plan to make a separate enclosure. 

Associated Models

• https://www.printables.com/model/781510-the-100-rigid-gantry 
  • Recommended gantry. Note that the The 100 v1.1 gantry is also compatible.
• https://www.printables.com/model/860016-the-100-better-extruder-mount
  • An extruder mount that results in a shorter Bowden tube length.
• https://www.printables.com/model/842897-the-100-tank-spoolholder
  • A spool holder
• https://www.printables.com/model/844355-the-100-modular-cpap-toolhead/files
  • Alternative to the The 100 v1.1 toolhead that is significantly lighter and has easily removable/swappable CPAP cooling ducts.
• https://www.printables.com/model/701698-better-belt-clamp-for-the-100
  • Belt clamps that have an accurate gt2 profile to securely grip the belt.
• https://www.printables.com/model/838554-btt-octopus-psu-enclosure
  • WIP electrical enclosure.

Print Settings

I recommend using Orca slicer and using the .3mf file as a reference. It has most of the print plates already setup.

Use the belt tensioners, and toolhead from the v1.1.

Here are the base settings. Note that I used some different settings from the v1.1 to be more rigid.

• 0.25 layer height
• 0.5 line width for all wall types
• 1.5mm top shell thickness
• 1.5mm bottom shell thickness
• 3 walls
• 25% cubic infill

BOM

BOM is in the files. However, I built this after a 100 Extended Edition so if you have built one of those previously you only need:

• A BTT Octopus v1.1.
  • https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B094Y77FQN 
• 6 BTT TMC2209 Stepper Driver Modules.
  • https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08WZFK9KT 
• 2 more 5015 fans for the motor coolers.
• A fan(s) to cool the BTT Octopus drivers.
• 1 more stepper
• 1 more 250mm lead screw (The two you already have can be cut down with a hacksaw)
• 1 more motor coupler
  • I recommend using all flexible aluminum motor couplers.
  • https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B081SK9R64 
• 1 more 12mm 330mm rod
• 1 more LM12LUU
• 3 anti-backlash nuts
  • https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083JW8RH8 
• 2 x 120 pack of M3x6x5 Heat Inserts
• 6 M3x4x5 Heat Inserts (You probably have these left over)
• M3 10mm screws for the frame screws that screw into heat inserts instead of using inset nuts.
• PLA to reprint. Do not use PLA+ or pro. Do not use matte. I used Overture black.
  • https://www.amazon.com/OVERTURE-Filament-Consumables-Dimensional-Accuracy/dp/B085C3597S 

The original printer used a 24v 15a power supply. Based on the load of the larger bed and more motors, I recommend a 24v 25a power supply instead.

Useful Links

• https://theforgetful.dev/the100/1.1/configure/first-gantry-movement/
  • Gantry movement setup is the same as the v1.1 so theforgetfuldev's guide is useful here.
• https://theforgetful.dev/the100/1.1/configure/sensorless-homing-prep/
  • Sensor-less homing for the gantry is also the same as for the v1.1. Note the bed differs in that you want to set a stall guard setting just shy of skipping steps in order to prevent one z motor triggering early and resulting in the bed tilting while homing.
• https://bttwiki.com/Octopus.html
  • Documentation for the Octopus control board.
• https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-OCTOPUS-V1.0/blob/master/Hardware/BIGTREETECH%20Octopus%20-%20PIN.pdf
  • Pin out diagram for the Octopus.
• https://docs.vorondesign.com/build/software/octopus_klipper.html
  • The guide I used on how to flash the Octopus board with the Klipper firmware.
• https://docs-os.mainsail.xyz/getting-started/raspberry-pi-os-based
  • How to install mainsailos on a raspberry pi.

Modified to have 3 lead screws, a rigid frame, and an Ender 3 bed.