I completely redesigned it from scratch after printing the original files from Angus, Makers Muse, ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&v=kPLRX0LjzWs&t=220s )
( Edit: found here a previous version: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5505097 ),
which resulted in waste due to the "print-in-place-hinges". They came out of my printer partly destroyed and very floppy.
→ My approach was building a new hinge design: easier to print and more durable. Furthermore I rotated the board 90 degrees to prevent loosing dice while closed and omit the case.
Additionally, I reduced the dice holes from 12 mm to 11 mm and rearranged the positions, because my purchased 10mm dice turned out 9,8 mm edge length. So, the dice fit better and I can store up to 22 dice in this box without loosing any of them. Having one or more than needed, comes in handy, when one get lost during travel. A snap lock secures the lid safely in place while closed.
I sliced and printed the box in place with 4 perimeters, 0,16mm layer height and very, very, very slowly (psst, don't tell it to anyone, who owns a Bambu: 30 mm/s) to get best results. Maybe that slow isn't needed and I'll try out faster print speeds later on.
I used brim too, but I doubt, that it is required due to low print speed.
Infill of 30%, because I wanted to strengthen the snap lock and the hinge. I couldn't figure out, how Orca Slicer handles partially higher infill with “painting” support material/infill as PrusaSlicer is able to do.
At least, use "ironing" to flatten the surfaces on normal PLA material. Glossy, shiny materials will suffer on look.
For the connection of the two pieces, I used a carbon fiber rod 2mm in diameter, I had at hand. If you print e.g. clear filament, the axle hole is tighter, even in the looser tolerance version, you can use a filament rod instead. But, filament degrades over the years, becomes brittle and maybe you have to replace it. Furthermore, it may be impossible to thread in a bent filament rod. A Carbon fiber rod is unbowed out of the box.
I experienced, that printing normal PLA may result in better precision than using, for example, clear filament, which needs looser tolerances. File types are provided in two configurations: one for printing in place, one separated in two pieces for those, who can't ensure, that printing in place doesn't glue both parts together.
Maybe give the hinge a little sanding to make the lid open and close easily, but after a few movements it should fold smoothly anyway.
If you like my projects, please consider to:
The author marked this model as their own original creation.