V-Spooler

If you have printed or purchased beta 8.1 you will find the instructions for this version in the files area in the “Other Files” section at the bottom.

Our manufacturing partner Veetec3D provides hardware kits, printed parts and fully assembled V-Spoolers at their Etsy store, for which Fyrby Additive receives a percentage. You can find the store here. If you are looking to upgrade from beta 8.1 the kits and/or parts are now available here!

V-Spooler is available free on Makerworld but it would be great if you can support me by buying it here. A cheaper alternative is to join my club for at least a month, which gives you access to this and other models for the duration of membership.

To help you with your build you can now also preview V-Spooler in a web browser on your computer, or using AR on a phone or AR/VR headsets such as the vision pro here.

Please note we provide upgrade files separately in the files area so you can upgrade incrementally from any version.

V-Spooler 1.0 Changes From Beta 8.1:

• Revised cam and gearing to allow more stable higher speed operation of V-Spooler.
• New quick change adaptors allowing quick easy changes between drill/handle.
• Updated stronger handle design.
• New tensioner via addition of a clamp on the tube guide. The hole in the guide for the tube is now also larger for easier insertion and removal.
• Slightly less play around the drive shaft (no play is not desirable).
• Bearings around the drive shaft are rotated to ensure less load on the bearings at rest.
• The right core frame part has holes to fit the future motor modification.
• The tube guide mounting screws are on the opposite side making fitting/removal easier.
• Two of the inner spool clamp parts have had internal overhangs removed.
• The new drill option is now included by default

The barrel cam and follower on the original V-Spooler worked, however was sensitive to small differences in build configurations (printer/plastics/etc) and will never work well or for long at high speed. It also wobbles a bit.

The new assembly balances the cam with bearings above so the follower is more well aligned and overall has much less friction, helped by the addition of a spring under the follower. The assembly is also more stable and less prone to wobble and can be operated much faster.

Introduction

V-Spooler is a re-spooler optimised for re-spooling to Bambu and Extrudr spools (will work with other same diameter spools) and is designed to occupy the smallest footprint in a vertical arrangement, hence the V in V-Spooler.

I designed the gears in FreeCAD, the cam in Plasticity and did the rest of the project in Shapr3D. The model above was printed using Prusament PC-CF and Spectrum PETG-PTFE composites.

One of the biggest requests I get is for a video of V-Spooler working, so here is a short video (currently Beta 8.1, will be updated!). If you would like to see how to load V-Spooler, please scroll to the bottom to find the tutorial videos there.

Which V-Spooler Should I Print?

Which File Do I Print?

You Want To Print A New V-Spooler

V-Spooler 1.0 - Bambu.3MF is the main file for this model which is updated every release to include all changes, so you do not have to upgrade when printing a new V-Spooler.

You Want To Print A V-Spooler Option

Look at the options section below and pick one, then go to the files area and choose either the Bambu or Generic 3MFs depending on your preference and print the matching file.

You Want To Upgrade V-Spooler

If your upper rollers look like the ones pictured to the right with a lip on either end, you should use the Beta 4 - 8.1 to 1.0 upgrade.
If your upper rollers are straight you should use the Beta 2 - 3 to 1.0 upgrade.

Required Components

The helical compression spring can be easily sourced at Bambu Lab at the following links US/EU/UK/AU/CA/Global.

Please note that inserts require that you have access to a soldering iron and that those supplied by Bambu Lab are a slightly different size and less suitable. Ruthex or CNC Kitchen are good choices.

Optional Build Items

Loctite Blue

At least one of the screws as detailed in the instructions benefits from Loctite Threadlocker Blue. Do not use the red Loctite, it is too strong for plastic parts with inserts.

When you use Loctite Blue put a very small amount of it on the end before screwing it in. This is important for future removal. Please do not use this all over the model for ease of maintenance.

PTFE Lubricant

Plastic parts susceptible to friction benefit from lubrication. If you have a PTFE lubricant or other lubricant that is compatible with your choice of plastic, when final assembly has been completed a light greasing of the lead screw will help operation.

Optional Model Parts

The options are provided in separate 3MF downloads.

Desk Mounting - There are now optional desk mounts, the holes for screws in the desk mounts are 6mm in diameter. You can remove objects called “brace front lower” and “brace rear lower” from the main print job if you want to use these.

Drill Attachment - You can remove object called “gear 8” from the main print job if you want to use the optional drill/screwdriver attachment.

Dust Protection - This part stops cardboard particles and other dirt dropping on to the target spool. It is supplied separately as it obscures the view a little, uses a bit more plastic. You can remove the objects “brace front upper” and “brace rear upper” from the main print job if you want to use this part. Note you will need to upgrade to Beta 4 to use the current part.

New Bambu & Extrudr Clamp & Spindle - Included by default from Beta 8. Fits all Bambu spools and Extrudr 1kg and 1.1kg spools.

Original Bambu Clamp & Spindle - Fits most Bambu spools with the exception of a lot of newer ones. This is a better option for spools it fits, as there will be less play in the assembly.

Generic Clamp & Spindle - A narrow clamp and spindle which aims to fit more third party spools.

Upgrading From Betas

If you are upgrading from beta 4 - 8.1 the upper frame part provided as part of the upgrade only deletes an unused screw hole. Hence this part is optional and can be deleted from the build plate it is on to save a little plastic. If you are upgrading from beta 2 - 3 both of these should remain in your print.

As this page is getting rather complicated, depending on your familiarity with V-Spooler if you are performing an upgrade the best approach may be to disassemble your existing V-Spooler and follow the instructions below using the upgraded parts in combination with parts carried over from betas.

Assembly

Spool Clamp

Install two M3 inserts into the end of the spool clamp.
Screw on the retainer, note that it is a reverse thread. This is so it is less likely to undo due to the rotation.
Install the handle on the end with two M3x16 screws and washers.

Filament Guide

Install two M3 inserts into the holes in this part of the filament guide.
Now connect the two parts together with two M3x8 screws and washers.
Take the top part of the carrier. Install two inserts in the holes in each side. This part is sensitive to warping, so please be careful with these lower inserts.
Also install two inserts on the top side.
Place a washer over each of the holes on one side. This is to stop the outer part of the bearing rubbing on the plastic.
Place a 693zz bearing over each hole and secure with an M3x8mm screw and washer. Now repeat this for the other side.

Gears

Install an M3 insert into the end of the gear as pictured.
Install the axel extension on the end with an M3x16 screw and washer. Note that this uses one of the smaller axel extension parts.
Take the gear that looks like this.
Install an M3 insert in the hole on this side as pictured.
Install the axel extension on the end with an M3x16 screw and washer. Note that this uses one of the smaller axel extension parts.
Take the final gear and install an M3 insert in the middle.
Install the axel extension on the end with an M3x16 screw and washer.
Install an M3 insert into the end of the drive axel.
Install an M3 insert into the side of the drive axel. Make extra sure this one is installed flush with the surface.

Left Frame

Take the lower part of the left frame and install two M3 inserts in either end.
Take the front left leg of the frame a pictured. Note that this is similar to the right leg, but slightly different - there are not two holes part way up the leg. There are four holes in the top as pictured. Install an M3 insert in these holes.
Take the rear left leg of the frame a pictured. Note that this is similar to the right leg, but slightly different - there are not two holes part way up the leg. There are two holes in the top as pictured. Install two M3 inserts in these holes.
Take the left top section of the frame. It is the one with the arrow pointing to the left if you lay it flat on its back as pictured.
Lay out the parts as pictured and also find the thin black lower support brackets as pictured. If you are using the optional desk mounts, these should be fitted here. The face of the arch that the arrow is on is pointing upwards in this picture.
Install 2x M3x20 screws and washers in both corners.
Connect the top part of the bracket with 2x M3x16 screws and washers on each side.
Now insert a 608 bearing into this hole, it is an easy push-fit.
Find the two upper supports and install two M3 inserts in each end of both. If you are using the optional dust protection part, install the inserts in this part instead.
Install the upper supports (or dust protection option) on the upper part of the frame with 4x M3x16 screws and washers. Note that these go one way around, the black bits should not stick out over the chamfered edges, if they do they need rotating around!

Right Frame

Take the front right leg and install four M3 inserts in the four holes in the top of the leg.
Take the rear right leg and install two M3 inserts in the two holes at the top of the leg.
Install an M3 insert in the top of each post with a hole in the bearing retainer.
In the central part of the right hand side of the frame install 4 M3 inserts on the holes on the side as pictured. Do the same on the opposite side.
If you plan on installing the motor modification in the future it is a good idea to install two inserts in the holes indicated now as it will be more awkward later.
Install 3x 608 bearings in these areas of the same part.
Fit the bearing retainer over the bearings, making sure the posts with the inserts in are inserted into the holes with matching holes in the back.
Support the bearing retainer from the side it is installed in, and secure it with two M3x8 screws and washers in these holes on the opposite side.
Attach the front leg to the central part of the frame using the two holes half way up with two M3x16 screws and washers. Do the same for the rear leg.
Connect the top part of the frame using the 4 holes at the top with 4x M3x16 screws and washers. The face of the arch that the arrow is on should be pointed towards the middle of the model, or it is the wrong way around.
Install 2x 608 bearings in these two holes.

Frame

Take the four orange rollers and put a 608 bearing in each end. They will fall out if you are not careful as they are a loose fit. Note that there are two flared rollers that look a bit different. Bearings should go in these too.
Move the parts together so they are in the correct orientation for fitment. Note that the flared rollers go at the top of the model. It's starting to look like a V-Spooler!
I find it easiest to connect via the top supports first. Use 4x M3x16 screws and washers in these 4 holes.
Use M3x20 screws and washers for the bottom two holes. Repeat this for the rear side.
Find this part and install an M3 insert in the hole as pictured, also do the one on the opposite side.
Attach the part in between the two sides of the frame as pictured and connect either end with M3x25 screws and washers.
Insert the carrier assembly into the black support beneath it.
Place the spring in the hole in the bottom of the carrier and then the tooth on top of the spring. You may need to keep the tooth in place with your fingers.
Insert the cam through and into the bearing in the left leg. Ensure the tooth is in the groove in the barrel cam and oriented correctly.
Install this part over the cam with 4x M3x8mm screws and washers. You will need to slide it under the tabs on the top of the carrier.
Install the top section of the carrier you prepared earlier with an M3x8mm screw and washer on each side. As the part is being pushed down by the spring pushing up, you will need to pull it up so the holes align. Slowly spin the gear on the end to check the assembly moves freely across the cam. Apply lubrication if you have it.
It is suggested to pull these parts out as pictured and let them hang there carefully, to allow fitment of the other gears later.
The next thing to do is to attempt to install all the gears together. This takes a bit of patience and careful wiggling. Please be gentle, it took you ages to print this!
Push the gears all the way in once you have wiggled them into alignment.

Gearbox Cover

Lay down the gearbox cover flat and install 7x M3 inserts in all the holes. Be careful not to de-form the three ones with the thin outer edge.
Install 3x 608 bearings in these three points.
Install the bearing retainer over the bearings. Attach with 3x M3x8 screws and washers.
Install 3 bearings in the other slots in the gearbox cover.
Install the gearbox cover. There are 4 screws to connect. The three at the thinner parts of the frame should use M3x16 screws and washers. An M3x25 screw and washer should be used on the part that connects to the leg.

Handle

If using the handle option install an insert into the end of the handle.
Put the handle into the hole of the arm as pictured and the retainer on the opposite side. Secure it with an M3x8 screw and washer. This can now be attached to the axel if desired with an M3x12 screw and washer.

Final Steps

Insert a length of PTFE tube into the tube guide. It is best to leave it a little long so you can cut it to your liking later.
Insert the two lock nuts into the holes indicated in the tube guide. You may need to support them with a finger to stop them falling out.
Secure the clamp with two M3x16 screws and washers. Tighten it so it grips the PTFE tube, but not completely closed. When you have filament in V-Spooler, and if you are using this clamp as a tensioner, it is best to adjust it with filament in the tube. Note that the tube wears quickly if using the clamp as a tensioner, and you will need to make a minor adjustment frequently, possibly on each spool.
This part should be left over. Ensure you have removed all the supports from the back cleanly to ensure that it runs as true as possible.
The cross in the back should be aligned with the cross on the drive shaft. This screw for this part is known to slowly come loose and should be periodically checked, or a tiny amount of Loctite Blue on the end of the screw should secure it. Do not use Loctite Red. You can use the handle to hold the axel stable. Screw in an M3x16 screw and washer and check to make sure it is fixed and runs true.

Congratulations! It was a long build but you should now have a working V-Spooler!