Versatile Filament Cutter Regular and Sharp Angle Cuts, multiple mounting options

Spring-operated cutter for 45 and 65 degree cuts + box to catch filament pieces. Standalone or mountable.
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updated January 16, 2025

Description

PDF

Update 1/16/24: Now with sharp angle cuts (65 degrees) for XL and MMU.

A long time ago I discovered pomi's filament cutter but wouldn't want to use it without a box a la wapameeto's. Over the years, I have modified this system a bit more, to make it more robust, versatile, and easier to use. 

To complement the standard 45 degree cut option, I added one for 65 degree cuts. I found that feeding my XL and my MMU3 was much easier with a sharper angle cut than the usual 45 degrees.

Included are also several mounting options: 

  • Stand-alone; 
  • Mounting into a 3030 extrusion (Prusa Mk4/3), 
  • Sideways mounting into a 3030 extrusion (Prusa XL)
  • Or with layershifter's “multiclip mounting system” (to attach to an enclosure such as LACK).

STP file included

Printing Instructions

Prints fine in PLA, PETG, PCCF. I recommend at least 3 perimeters. 15% gyroid or cubic infill.

3030 versions: Need supports for the 3030 mounting hook; see .3mf files. Careful when you remove the supports—don't shear off the mounting hook. To mount into the extrusion, insert the mounting hook, then rotate by 90 degrees.

Bill of Materials (from @pomi)

  • One segment of a snap-off blade 18 mm (example)
  • 2x  M3 x 25 mm screws
  • 2 ball pen springs (probably 20 mm length, 4 mm diameter, M3 screw must fit inside)

Assembly Instructions (adapted from pomi)

Check video instructions here.

  • Take one piece of the snap-off blade and push it into top part. Wear safety gloves and use pliers to avoid injury! Orient the blade so that the sharp edge is pointing away from the part. There is a small dot on the top part near the blade pocket, which shows you where the tip of the blade should be. It should slide in easily if the blade is held straight. Additionally you can use super glue to fix it in position.
  • Slide the two screws into the bottom holes of the body.
  • Insert ball pen springs into their respective holes.
     
  • Place the body on the top, with the screws sliding into the springs, and press it down fully. Tighten the screws. Screw head should be about 6 mm inside head holes. 
  • Release upper part and check that blade is not visible inside the filament hole. If it is, loosen the screws a little bit.

Version History:

 1/29/24: Improved box design! I got irritated that the cutter jumped to easily out the front of the box when pressing down, so I changed the box design to make it more secure. While at it, I made quite a few more minor quality-of-life changes. Most significantly, I increased the width of the channels in the body for the screws, so they slide in and out more easily, and I slightly increased the size of slot for the blade in the top, so it's easier to insert the blade.4/18/22: New model with 3030 side mount for Prusa XL

11/8/22: Somehow the cutter body model lost height 🥵 Replaced it with the correct model. Thanks to @mike s. for discovering the problem.

9/20/22: Redesigned the box to make the insides straight, to avoid printing artifacts from the sloping inside walls of the original design. Added 3030 mounting option. 

6/17/21: Added option to mount it to your enclosure (or other convenient place) using @layershifter's “multiclip mounting system”. Requires a flat-head wood screw (I used a #8 x ¾).

6/7/21: Regenerated Cutter Body from FreeCad file, to remove artifacts.

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Model origin

The author remixed this model.

Differences of the remix compared to the original

65 degree cut option

Cutter body: increased size of channels for the screws. Minor additional changes.

Top: Enlarged the slot for the blade.

Box: Added material to keep the cutter more secure in the box. Added cutout to the base for easier removal of the body. Added several mounting options.

License